Power Queen Smart Battery - Pull the Trigger?

[SkippyJonJones]

I was set on buying some SOK batteries for my RV but these Power Queen Batteries continually get better and have really grabbed my attention. They currently have a great sale on the 100ah 12v Smart Battery. I don't care too much about the smart feature except that it would be nice to shut the battery off at the battery and not at the battery switch (winterizing). But I'm hoping some experts can answer a few questions before I spend a chunk of money on these.

1. Thoughts on initially buying 3 batteries and adding the exact same battery months down the road (after several cycles on the three).

2. What about buying three batteries (odd number vs 2 or 4)? I'm going to be in parallel, so it shouldn't matter right? Just thinking about charge and discharge issues at three vs four.

3. Thoughts on the Smart Battery from Power Queen? Cold disconnect is important to me. The tests from Will and others seems to make it a legit battery.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Cold disconnect is important to me. The tests from Will and others seems to make it a legit battery.

So that makes me respond in my head this way:
You already decided, doubted yourself, and then started second guessing. There’s batteries for more money, batteries for less.

I’d say if you are buying batteries in that range trust your research and the reviews and just do it already.

What about buying three batteries (odd number vs 2 or 4)? I'm going to be in parallel, so it shouldn't matter right? Just thinking about charge and discharge issues at three vs four.

You can cable either acceptably. Use equal length cables: take your longest run and use that length for each battery to a copper busbar rated at 125% of your maximum load.
If 100A discharge use a 125A Class T fuse on each battery positive terminal. Instead of using the minimum acceptable gage for each battery amps, go one gage thicker.
Fuse the inverter cable at the busbar appropriately.

 

[SkippyJonJones]

So that makes me respond in my head this way:
You already decided, doubted yourself, and then started second guessing. There’s batteries for more money, batteries for less.

I am second guessing myself. It's an expensive investment. I just wanted to see if there was something I was missing or if others had some experience.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Bluedog225]

I’ve not heard much SOK regret.

 

[SkippyJonJones]

You can cable either acceptably. Use equal length cables: take your longest run and use that length for each battery to a copper busbar rated at 125% of your maximum load.
If 100A discharge use a 125A Class T fuse on each battery positive terminal. Instead of using the minimum acceptable gage for each battery amps, go one gage thicker.
Fuse the inverter cable at the busbar appropriately.

So I bought the batteries and they already arrived. But your comments on fusing the batteries had me wondering if you are suggesting something like this on each battery terminal.

Battery Terminal Fuse

 

[The Good Package]

Power Queen batteries are great - I've deployed many of them and haven't had a single issue. I don't use their smart batteries though, just regular. Their 12v | 100ah batteries can discharge at 280a for 5 seconds, so in a 3p config I would probably use a Buss 150a breaker for each battery but you can use a fast blow T class if it makes you feel better.

Buss breaker here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/

Since you're going 12v and plan to expand later, you better get decent 600a+ bus bars with enough studs and use big cable.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BCFC8C2Y/

 

[SkippyJonJones]

Yep, I've learned the hard way that I should have gone with a bigger (more studs) bus bar. I have a couple smaller powered items stacked up.

So to be clear, I need three buss breakers - one for each battery?

 

[The Good Package]

Yep, I've learned the hard way that I should have gone with a bigger (more studs) bus bar. I have a couple smaller powered items stacked up.

So to be clear, I need three buss breakers - one for each battery?

Each battery *should* have some kind of runaway discharge overcurrent protection. I prefer high quality Buss breakers so that I can quickly disconnect an individual battery / string for maintenance, but direct terminal fuses, T class, ANL, etc. are available and it's up to your preference. If you go with the breaker style, buy Buss brand and not a knockoff (not even Blue Sea). All of the other ones are crap.

According to Power Queen, their smart battery has "over current" protection so you may not even need a separate fuse / breaker. I'm paranoid, so personally I would use a separate one.

You also *really should* have a fast blow fuse between the inverter and pos bus bar, unless it's a crap inverter that you don't care about and you enjoy magic smoke.

Very important to keep all of your battery conductors (close to) the same length, even if it means there's slack. You want current balanced as equally as possible.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Power Queen, their smart battery has "over current" protection

Until something fails- then you could be unprotected. A Class T means you are protected- when it “fails” it fails open.

 

[JoeHam]

If you go with the breaker style, buy Buss brand and not a knockoff (not even Blue Sea). All of the other ones are crap.

Blue Sea is usually just a rebranded Cooper Bussman as seen here with both brands listed on the packaging :

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