diy solar

diy solar

Pre-Charge Switch

Checkthisout said:
Use this to keep it from turning until your momentary button is pressed but then allow it to be turned off quickly without having to do any extra steps.
Click to expand...

That is an interesting idea for a 12V system. If the pushbutton both precharged and activated the bolt it would work well. The two downsides is figuring out how to mount the bolt and the esthetics.

Checkthisout said:
Click to expand...
A quick hint about amazon.com URLs : Everything from the /ref= to the end is just tracking info and is not really needed. The above URL can be shortened to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Atoplee-Electric-Assembly-Solenoid-27X29X18mm/dp/B0125VGLT0

If you want to shorten it further you can take out the text description and end up with this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0125VGLT0

(I like leaving the text description)
 
Checkthisout said:
You could even use a solenoid with a timed delay to block the main switch from being turned until the momentary was held down for X seconds or whatever, giving the caps time to charge up.
Click to expand...
If you keep the charge resistance small, a delay would not really be needed.
 
I just found this switch:

Blue Sea Systems Battery Switches - e-Series - Dual Circuit Plus

E-Series single circuit battery switches by Blue Sea Systems can be used for inboard gasoline or diesel engines. These switches feature tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Free shipping over $99!
www.delcity.net www.delcity.net

Edit Updated images

1647387610037.png1647395407177.png

It could be used for precharge like this:


1647395675894.png
1647402985535.png

Edit: This switch is only rated for 32 volts.
 
Last edited:
I am looking for clarification about precharge circuits.
Most solutions recommend a "manual" delay or with a relay.
What is the problem with an on-off circuit: a resistor bridging the relay contacts, isolation switches or BMS fet (with a 0-I switch that allows the circuit to be shut down for maintenance)?
-After the main circuit is switched on, by the relay, switch or fet, there is hardly any current flowing through the preload circuit! But by leaving it in service, wouldn't we protect the main contacts from the induction choke effect of an untimely cut-off, while benefiting from the precharge?
Two birds with one stone.
Thanks for the answers.
 
FilterGuy said:
I just found this switch:

Blue Sea Systems Battery Switches - e-Series - Dual Circuit Plus

E-Series single circuit battery switches by Blue Sea Systems can be used for inboard gasoline or diesel engines. These switches feature tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Free shipping over $99!
www.delcity.net www.delcity.net

Edit Updated images

View attachment 87451View attachment 87472

It could be used for precharge like this:


View attachment 87474
View attachment 87491

Edit: This switch is only rated for 32 volts.
Click to expand...
Blue Sea 48V are also not rated for over 48V. You need a 60V rated switch. Put a resister and momentary switch in parallel. Press the momentary switch until the caps in the inverter charge, then switch on the main switch. About $4 in parts. I think some of the BMS's are now including a precharge circuit.
 
yaq said:
I am looking for clarification about precharge circuits.
Most solutions recommend a "manual" delay or with a relay.
What is the problem with an on-off circuit: a resistor bridging the relay contacts, isolation switches or BMS fet (with a 0-I switch that allows the circuit to be shut down for maintenance)?
-After the main circuit is switched on, by the relay, switch or fet, there is hardly any current flowing through the preload circuit! But by leaving it in service, wouldn't we protect the main contacts from the induction choke effect of an untimely cut-off, while benefiting from the precharge?
Two birds with one stone.
Thanks for the answers.
Click to expand...
It's best to not post the same question in multiple threads. A dialog will start on one of them, then on the other, and.... Well, it's better to have people respond in one place.
 
yaq said:
I am looking for clarification about precharge circuits.
Click to expand...
I just want you to be aware of the limitations of many switches. ;)

Sanwizard said:
Blue Sea 48V are also not rated for over 48V. You need a 60V rated switch. Put a resister and momentary switch in parallel. Press the momentary switch until the caps in the inverter charge, then switch on the main switch. About $4 in parts. I think some of the BMS's are now including a precharge circuit.
Click to expand...
The linked product is NOT designed to be switched OFF while carrying ANY CURRENT.

Instructions PDF can be found via this page: bluesea.com/products/5511e

• Turn all appliances off before turning the battery switch to OFF.

• Do not switch to OFF while engine is running.
 
Horsefly said:
It's best to not post the same question in multiple threads. A dialog will start on one of them, then on the other, and.... Well, it's better to have people respond in one place.
Click to expand...
Excuse the lack of label,
But blogs are still like discovering the butter thread ...
 
WYtreasure said:
I just want you to be aware of the limitations of many switches. ;)


The linked product is NOT designed to be switched OFF while carrying ANY CURRENT.

Instructions PDF can be found via this page: bluesea.com/products/5511e

• Turn all appliances off before turning the battery switch to OFF.

• Do not switch to OFF while engine is running.
Click to expand...
You go completely in the direction of the second part of my question!
Now if the installation has to face an emergency cut ???
 
Horsefly said:
Um, ok. I have no idea what that means.
Click to expand...
It is an old French expression describing "genius" which reinvents or rediscovers the butter cutting!
In remote times, we sold the butter to detail from large clods ~ 10 kg and to detail it,
it was easier to cut it with a steel wire stretched between two pieces of wood that we heldby hands.

A tool so elementary that only a person whose mother had rocked him too close to the walls could glorify it!
Hence the expression: reinvent the butter cutting ...

CQFD
 
yaq said:
It is an old French expression describing "genius" which reinvents or rediscovers the butter cutting!
In remote times, we sold the butter to detail from large clods ~ 10 kg and to detail it,
it was easier to cut it with a steel wire stretched between two pieces of wood that we heldby hands.

A tool so elementary that only a person whose mother had rocked him too close to the walls could glorify it!
Hence the expression: reinvent the butter cutting ...

CQFD
Click to expand...
Oh, ok. Thanks for the explanation.

However: Please don't post the same question in multiple threads.
 
yaq said:
It is an old French expression describing "genius" which reinvents or rediscovers the butter cutting!
In remote times, we sold the butter to detail from large clods ~ 10 kg and to detail it,
it was easier to cut it with a steel wire stretched between two pieces of wood that we heldby hands.

A tool so elementary that only a person whose mother had rocked him too close to the walls could glorify it!
Hence the expression: reinvent the butter cutting ...

CQFD
Click to expand...
The butter cut wire
translator problem
 
Filter Guy

Quick question, I am building you're pre charge switch, what gauge wire do you use inside the switch? Looks like 10?
 
I am working on one and planning on using 10 AWG or 12 AWG I have lying around, but that wire looks much thicker than the resistor leads.

I can solder or crimp a butt splice for the resistor to wire connection and I have 3/8” ring terminals to crimp to my switch.

This is the pic of the 25 ohm 30 watt wire wound resistor I’m using

66F499E4-3B4A-4C47-89B7-B6D15C6820C9.png
The leads are supposed to be 2 mm wide, which is supposed to be between 12 and 13, but it looks less.
 
Last edited:
PittsburghRed said:
Filter Guy

Quick question, I am building you're pre charge switch, what gauge wire do you use inside the switch? Looks like 10?
Click to expand...
I think I used 10AWG because that is what I had lying around. You could use much smaller. I picked the resistor sizes for around 2 Amp at the battery voltage, and that will only be for an instant. You could get away with 16 AWG or even smaller.
 
I'm resuming this post because I'd like to build something similar, but I can't find the Perko and Mariner in Europe, and shipping costs from the US are too expensive. The Blue Seas 1+2 version is currently on sale on amazon for 40euro, so I was thinking of getting that.
@chrisski di you end up finishing your build? Is it working well? Curious to know your opinion.
 
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