diy solar

diy solar

Recommend non-Daly BMS for 200A?

I agree it's a quick and easy solution, but DIY.

Not a lot, all you do is not connect the p- and b- to the battery, but power source and Contactor

You let the BMS be the relay it actually is.
All it needs to do is monitoring, and act when one cell gets too high or too low.
If it can do Balance, that's a nice plus.

If your system needs to be 24/7 standby, it will have 24/7 power consumption.

Turning on the inverter already uses +50 watts.

Assuming you don't have the inverter powered 24/7, why would the BMS be?
Your not using the cells.

Simple 20A BMS , as stupid as they go, just a few parts :)
And you can get the best quality you like for about $50.

The quality Contactor... That will set you back a few bucks.
Good news, it probably will outlive you.
Thank you to layout most efficient long lasting system - that's interesting for all the reasons you shared.
I bet forum has a good case study to ref (today's quest) - but if anyone could point me to one that'd be GREAT!
I've taken in many article's etc in this forum like a fire hose - so just need to sum it up now - pencils down as they say.

I'm a first-timer with goal to be up and running by end of May... Lord willing ;-)
Attached is the equipment / load overview - with 16S REPT cells due May 5th (started as EVE order due late June).

I was ready to pull the trigger on Overkill 100A 48v 16s BMS thinking, it's 100A 48V = 4800W, no worries for my 4400W inverter. So I decided to ignore surge numbers suggesting momentary +200A, since Overkill is good for 280A if <5s. Case closed, if I don't mind inefficiencies.

If I'm just a few parts away from doing "Contactor" based set up though, I'm curious to unravel I guess a small concept.

THANK YOU TO THIS WHOLE COMMUNITY - INCLUDING ONES BEHIND THE SCENES - IT'S INVALUABLE!
 
Whoops, here's the Overview (Plan) that goes with above.

I'd like to mention the Generators (Inverters) I'm getting are <5% THD, 2 in parallel converted to NG, manual but reliable - on the spot.
I have an extended sub-panel with another 25 breakers 30 ft from primary panel, hence I want 240v type generator/inverter to easily back-feed via the interlock (50 breakers in all). I figure I can do a hell of a lot at the 4400W level, not to mention go full blast with the 2 inverter/generators at 6000W or 7000W. I won't suffer at all, not to mention my Sump will have a ton of back-up if I'm out of town!

Also, attaching the inverter spec - pretty basic I think.
 

Attachments

  • Inverter Backup Plan 2021 0429.pdf
    777.2 KB · Views: 7
  • Magnum MS4400 PAE Spec Sheet.pdf
    317 KB · Views: 1
  • MS-PAE-series_datasheet_64-0275_RevE_web_0.pdf
    149.9 KB · Views: 0
I needed to Google sump pump, apparently a pump used to get water out of a basement.

In the Netherlands the walls are usually coated to prevent water from entering. Netherlands is a wet country with high ground water levels...

Each country its own solutions :)

The sump pump needs to run or be able to run always, so the system needs to turn on automatically with a power out?

That's doable, probably require some Arduino programming.
 
I needed to Google sump pump, apparently a pump used to get water out of a basement.

In the Netherlands the walls are usually coated to prevent water from entering. Netherlands is a wet country with high ground water levels...

Each country its own solutions :)

The sump pump needs to run or be able to run always, so the system needs to turn on automatically with a power out?

That's doable, probably require some Arduino programming.
Yes - that's correct, Sump Pumps keep water from getting under foundations - which is 1 story deep in ground.
The pump is activated via a float switch which flushes about 7 gal (26 L) per flush.
Worst worst case, motor would flush once a minute (800W motor on about 5sec's), meaning my finished basement would be finished (wrecked) if power went out! That's 420gal (1600L) / Hour ! Maybe I need one of those windmills you have there?
 
I agree it's a quick and easy solution, but DIY.

Not a lot, all you do is not connect the p- and b- to the battery, but power source and Contactor

You let the BMS be the relay it actually is.
All it needs to do is monitoring, and act when one cell gets too high or too low.
If it can do Balance, that's a nice plus.

If your system needs to be 24/7 standby, it will have 24/7 power consumption.

Turning on the inverter already uses +50 watts.

Assuming you don't have the inverter powered 24/7, why would the BMS be?
Your not using the cells.

Simple 20A BMS , as stupid as they go, just a few parts :)
And you can get the best quality you like for about $50.

The quality Contactor... That will set you back a few bucks.
Good news, it probably will outlive you.
Hi fhorst,

If you connect the P- and the main [+] on to the coil of an external contactor or power relay, then the BMS still is the safety relay, but with higher load capacity. When the BMS is triggered by it’s safety settings like under/over voltage, or temperature, it switches down, and so will the external contactor or power relay. The B- of the BMS needs to be connected on to the battery, with a small wire to the [+], to be operational.
You’re explanation not to connect the B- on to the battery I don‘t understand. Maybe you can explain a bit better.
 
I think I have this, maybe. The bms will only be used to trigger a high amp relay which will pass the current. The bms just needs low current. Bms will get its power from cell voltage wires. You can pass charge current through bms or through separate relay. Shunt on B- to measure currents.
 
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