Recommendations on exposed fastener metal roof mount

[Fenachrone]

At long last, I'm migrating my panels to the roof of my off-grid cabin. A new exposed-fastener metal roof was put on last fall.
I'd like to do this mostly myself, with some help from someone who will probably know less than me.

Fortunately my roof access is conveniently low so not a lot of dangerous climbing involved. Looking around I've noticed a system that appears to consist of "pincers" that clamp onto the ribs of the exposed fastener panels. Then rails are attached to these. I've looked at one maker of a number of these products, S-5! I know a lot depends on the style of the rib.

But I know there are other methods and products. I've attached pics to give some idea of what we're working with.

Thanks for any suggestions and/or recommendations. I'll be mounting eight panels vertically.

 

[dopeassjackson]

I havent seen a single manufacturer recomend screws through the ribs like on your roof. Either way the S5 brackets that dont go through the ribs is what I'm going to be useing. There cheap and I can connect unistrut to them easily.

 

[kampto]

I have a roof just like that. Used rails and L-feet screwed right through the roof with a good all-weather caulking. Been in place over 15yrs no issues.

 

[Fenachrone]

I havent seen a single manufacturer recomend screws through the ribs like on your roof. Either way the S5 brackets that dont go through the ribs is what I'm going to be useing. There cheap and I can connect unistrut to them easily.

Yeah, I find the screws through the ribs questionable, but there they are on the S5 site. I wonder what would be the advantage. I think they have good other options, so like you, I'll go that route.

 

[Fenachrone]

I have a roof just like that. Used rails and L-feet screwed right through the roof with a good all-weather caulking. Been in place over 15yrs no issues.

What brand L-feet did you use?

 

[1201]

S5 protea bracket with iron ridge rails Is what I used and I'm very happy with it. I was able to get the panels about over 5 inches about the roof surface to help with heat buildup

 

[cdherman]

I havent seen a single manufacturer recomend screws through the ribs like on your roof. Either way the S5 brackets that dont go through the ribs is what I'm going to be useing. There cheap and I can connect unistrut to them easily.

THE problem with screws through the ribs/ridges is that the installer can over-torque the screw and dent the tin on the ridge. Then you have a small but real channel of water into the structure.

I met a fellow from Australia once who said that there, all metal roofing was installed with the fasteners on the ridge. Less rain, more sense? Who knows.

US installations rely on a rubber washer on the screw to seal. I suspect that the rubber washer will fail before most metal roofing will fail. The ridge installation is better if you can avoid over-torque of the screw, I think. But there is another really hypothetical question in my mind --- does that long screw (ridge screws have to be 1" or more longer) that is "free" under the metal roofing expand and contract more as well. Leading to loosening...

I am in the process of putting panels on several buildings at my family farm. Roofs are all metal. On 9" center, ridge to ridge. It seems most metal roofing is 9" these days. The protea brackets (I ordered one out to test) seem really perfect to avoid the need for any further racking. If your panels are 9" increments, you put the brackets on, get things alligned and NO RAILS.

Or so the theory goes. Have not executed........

 

[Fenachrone]

THE problem with screws through the ribs/ridges is that the installer can over-torque the screw and dent the tin on the ridge. Then you have a small but real channel of water into the structure.

I met a fellow from Australia once who said that there, all metal roofing was installed with the fasteners on the ridge. Less rain, more sense? Who knows.

US installations rely on a rubber washer on the screw to seal. I suspect that the rubber washer will fail before most metal roofing will fail. The ridge installation is better if you can avoid over-torque of the screw, I think. But there is another really hypothetical question in my mind --- does that long screw (ridge screws have to be 1" or more longer) that is "free" under the metal roofing expand and contract more as well. Leading to loosening...

I am in the process of putting panels on several buildings at my family farm. Roofs are all metal. On 9" center, ridge to ridge. It seems most metal roofing is 9" these days. The protea brackets (I ordered one out to test) seem really perfect to avoid the need for any further racking. If your panels are 9" increments, you put the brackets on, get things alligned and NO RAILS.

Or so the theory goes. Have not executed........

So you would be using the S-5! PVKIT™ (rail-less)? Or another brand? I notice one by EcoFasten, called SimpleSeal. Is there really any particular benefit to going rail-less beyond the purely ecological (no rails, less metal).

 

[1201]

So you would be using the S-5! PVKIT™ (rail-less)? Or another brand? I notice one by EcoFasten, called SimpleSeal. Is there really any particular benefit to going rail-less beyond the purely ecological (no rails, less metal).

I wouldn't go without rails.

It would cost more, you have to install in landscape mode, and it would take more time. Also more penetrations in your roof

 

[Ron Asbury]

I went with no rails. Trapezoidal metal roof, S5 VersaBracket-67 mounted on the flat, directly into the purlins, in portrait.

Roof metal profile and panel width will determine panel spacing. Purlin spacing on center will determine where the brackets mount on the panels.
EZ-PZ after doing the math and drilling a few more holes in the panels.