This battery is either in shelf mode & won't accept a charge, or maybe there is a switch or temperature sensor missing ..... So the BMS says "NO!"
I can't get the DC home app to work (separate issue & thread started!)
I removed the false top cover lid from this battery case to reveal 6 small access holes & was able to check the cell pack (4p4s) voltages, all 3.29v.
The battery terminal voltage is 12.28v. the cell pack internal voltage controlled by the BMS is 13.2v.
Under this lid, on 1 side is the Bluetooth device, on the other side is a twin wire/connector socket with nothing connected!????
I believe the early Renogy LFP batteries had an 'On' switch .... Is this my problem?
I think it's more likely to be a temperature sensor socket & it's missing? ....
I got brave an decided to see what happens if I trigger this 2 wire circuit?
When linked to a power supply (13.8v 5A), the battery will switch on for 3 seconds every minute or so and take about 50w.
If I link a 5w 12v auto bulb (resistance) across these 2 pins, the charge cycles at about a 50% PWM duty cycle every 3 seconds.
My questions are....
1, can someone whip the lid off their battery to see what's missing? (Easy! Takes seconds, a little glue lightly holds it down & super easy to redo)
2, what BMS is fitted to these?
3, who actually makes this battery? I know the case is the same as chins etc etc
4, if this battery is missing the temperature sensor & I have to trick the BMS, what resistance value can I place across the terminals for it to be happy?
Photos of my battery below. Thanks for all that help me fix this !!!!!
p.s. I found a similar 'issue'? in this post on the group:-
I can't get the DC home app to work (separate issue & thread started!)
I removed the false top cover lid from this battery case to reveal 6 small access holes & was able to check the cell pack (4p4s) voltages, all 3.29v.
The battery terminal voltage is 12.28v. the cell pack internal voltage controlled by the BMS is 13.2v.
Under this lid, on 1 side is the Bluetooth device, on the other side is a twin wire/connector socket with nothing connected!????
I believe the early Renogy LFP batteries had an 'On' switch .... Is this my problem?
I think it's more likely to be a temperature sensor socket & it's missing? ....
I got brave an decided to see what happens if I trigger this 2 wire circuit?
When linked to a power supply (13.8v 5A), the battery will switch on for 3 seconds every minute or so and take about 50w.
If I link a 5w 12v auto bulb (resistance) across these 2 pins, the charge cycles at about a 50% PWM duty cycle every 3 seconds.
My questions are....
1, can someone whip the lid off their battery to see what's missing? (Easy! Takes seconds, a little glue lightly holds it down & super easy to redo)
2, what BMS is fitted to these?
3, who actually makes this battery? I know the case is the same as chins etc etc
4, if this battery is missing the temperature sensor & I have to trick the BMS, what resistance value can I place across the terminals for it to be happy?
Photos of my battery below. Thanks for all that help me fix this !!!!!
p.s. I found a similar 'issue'? in this post on the group:-
Overkill / Jiabaida / JBD BMS faulty high temp cut off behavior
Hello, Following the build of a 4S 160Ah battery with a JBD 200A BMS, I wanted to perform some tests on the safety triggers. It seems to me that these BMS are reputed to be rather reliable and well designed but I noticed a strange behavior of the BMS for everything that is triggering the...
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