diy solar

diy solar

Ressurecting/rejuvenating batteries

I have a problem with people doing things wrong, not realizing it and then telling everybody how great being wrong
Sounds like you need anger management and let the hate go. Your opinions are yours only and if you can't understand why I specifically stated I feel like I shouldn't even talk about this is that idiots could hurt themselves. Mic drop...
 
Sounds like you need anger management and let the hate go. Your opinions are yours only and if you can't understand why I specifically stated I feel like I shouldn't even talk about this is that idiots could hurt themselves. Mic drop...

"have a problem with" = "hate" to you? Interesting perspective. I guess someone can't disagree with you without needing "anger management." Got it.

You don't matter enough to me for me to get mad.

I simply ask for basic data, but you don't provide it and post another wall of text full of irrelevant info. You're engaging in an incorrect process with untested results. You are dismissed as a technical authority of any kind at this point.

Mic drop...
 
Wow this went off the rails lol. What mikeinnyc posted may work and whatnot, but it's far outside of the scope of what I was asking... Nobody advocated overcharging the batteries. The voltages sunshine_eggo mentioned are within the ranges printed on the batteries, these batteries have never been used and only have several years of self discharge in play, and when I got them, they all were 12.1v or higher, which from what I've found, for lead acid batteries translates to roughly 80% DoD... Higher than I was expecting. Since I charged and paralleled them, they've sat for three or four weeks and are holding 13.1v. I haven't done the 14.8v for 8 hours step or the 13.8 for 7 days yet, just a basic charge on all of them to halt any degradation. With relatively simple charging, these may recover to a good degree. Or they may not. We'll see. But the price was right to give it a shot.
 
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I finally was able to finish the second and third charges (14.8 for 8 hours, 13.8 for a week), and the results are below. IR-1 is the test before I did the extended charges and the IR-2 is after. I don't recall the IR-1 temperature, but the temp today when I took the IR-2 was 90*, so being higher than the 77* test spec, that would affect the IR values and make them lower. I'm not sure how the Ancel tester works or how accurate it is, especially since it's doing a CCA test, which isn't really accurate for these (not sure what their CCA would actually be, but I used the lowest possible value). Given that from what I gather, the IR value goes up as the battery health declines, the manufacturer says 34mOhm at 77* is proper for a full charge, it seems like these may actually be in halfway decent shape.

Battery​
IR-1​
IR-2​
1​
28.87​
24.71​
2​
30.06​
26.27​
3​
31.36​
27.51​
4​
28.87​
24.93​
5​
30.7​
25.58​
6​
23.9​
22.09​
7​
30.06​
26.04​
8​
34.72​
30.38​
9​
29.76​
27.06​
10​
28.87​
24.3​
11​
29.46​
26.27​
12​
24.3​
24.91​
13​
28.04​
22.78​
14​
28.87​
24.1​
15​
28.99​
24.71​
16​
23.52​
22.43​
17​
27.77​
25.36​
18​
29.16​
24.93​
19​
27.51​
23.33​
20​
28.31​
23.33​
21​
32.4​
28.31​
22​
31.7​
28.34​
23​
32.05​
25.14​
24​
32.4​
29.76​
25​
27.77​
24.71​
26​
28.31​
23.33​
27​
28.59​
25.14​
28​
27.26​
28.35​
29​
29.46​
26.75​
30​
30.06​
24.71​
31​
27.51​
24.1​
32​
26.04​
23.9​
 
I assume you mean use one of my existing NoCo chargers to start charging them

Make sure your Noco doesn’t have an automatic self repair mode. This is an equalization charge meant for flooded lead acid and will damage AGM. I had two Noco chargers. One had a manual repair mode and the other had an automatic repair. The automatic one was supposed to detect if the attached battery was sealed or flooded, but it didn’t work on my AGM bank. More than once it boiled my AGM batteries due to going into an equalization charge. I no longer use that charger.
 
Make sure your Noco doesn’t have an automatic self repair mode. This is an equalization charge meant for flooded lead acid and will damage AGM. I had two Noco chargers. One had a manual repair mode and the other had an automatic repair. The automatic one was supposed to detect if the attached battery was sealed or flooded, but it didn’t work on my AGM bank. More than once it boiled my AGM batteries due to going into an equalization charge. I no longer use that charger.
I believe the NoCo10 does have some sort of auto repair, but supposedly it's a very mild repair. It also has a manual repair that's supposedly much stronger. I only used the NoCo initially to bring them up from dead, from there I've only used the 10A power supply as was suggested.

Edit: When you say it'll damage AGM batteries, does that mean ALL AGM batteries, including automotive AGM, or just this particular type of AGM? Both have an AGM setting, which is what I used, so if the damage would apply to ALL AGM batteries, then I'd think that using the AGM setting would prevent that.
 
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I finally was able to finish the second and third charges (14.8 for 8 hours, 13.8 for a week), and the results are below. IR-1 is the test before I did the extended charges and the IR-2 is after. I don't recall the IR-1 temperature, but the temp today when I took the IR-2 was 90*, so being higher than the 77* test spec, that would affect the IR values and make them lower.

Yep.

I'm not sure how the Ancel tester works or how accurate it is, especially since it's doing a CCA test, which isn't really accurate for these (not sure what their CCA would actually be, but I used the lowest possible value).

It's not doing a CCA test. It's asking for CCA data, so it can use its IR test results to spit out accurate CCA data. A true CCA test is high current.

I have found it's IR values consistent with other calibrated test equipment. It is HIGHLY useful for comparative measurements.

Given that from what I gather, the IR value goes up as the battery health declines, the manufacturer says 34mOhm at 77* is proper for a full charge, it seems like these may actually be in halfway decent shape.

Concur. Given that they're under IR spec, I would expect them to be very healthy.
 
Thanks for your help - I replaced the 30 batteries in one of my UPS's (APC SMX3000LV) and it's external battery pack (one of the RBCs from the external pack measured about 9 volts, when fully charged is 136, so they were just a 'tad' dead :oops:), and after running a runtime calibration, it's reporting just shy of two hours runtime at the current 28% load. Huge improvement. Now I just need to do the same with the remaining batteries and try to keep them healthy. After running the 14.8/13.8 charge, what would you recommend for keeping them healthy in storage? Periodically applying 13.8v with the power supply until current drops fairly low?
 
Thanks for your help - I replaced the 30 batteries in one of my UPS's (APC SMX3000LV) and it's external battery pack (one of the RBCs from the external pack measured about 9 volts, when fully charged is 136, so they were just a 'tad' dead :oops:), and after running a runtime calibration, it's reporting just shy of two hours runtime at the current 28% load. Huge improvement. Now I just need to do the same with the remaining batteries and try to keep them healthy. After running the 14.8/13.8 charge, what would you recommend for keeping them healthy in storage? Periodically applying 13.8v with the power supply until current drops fairly low?

Once every 90 days, 13.8V for 24 hours.
 
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