So just how sturdy are the LV/SP6548.

[Quattrohead]

Well let me tell you my experience.
I started with solar to mainly run my HVAC to offset the cost here in hot and sunny Florida. Started with Growatt 6000T that worked quite well but it occasionally (maybe once per month) could not start my year old Carrier regular heat pump system. It would seem to lock up and the inverter would shutdown from overload. I would connect the compressor back to mains to kick it.
When it was time to upgrade and expand the system, I ordered a pair of SP6548 and literally the next day found an ad for 45 panels, 4 batteries and a Solark 12k. I removed them all from the house (it was being sold) and decided to use it all instead. Well the poor Solark absolutely hated the compressor and couldn't start it several times a week.

So I decided to try the SP6548 pair. They handled the compressor fine with no failed starts. I did see a couple of times where the inverters showed over 80A and one time I heard quite the snarl from them. They have been running fine for several months and I decided to go 100% off grid, so they got the dryer and water heater added to them that could pull 12kw of their 13kw output. Again they handled it fine, even starting the compressor with the dryer or HWT running. The Solark is running the rest of the house and charging my 6 batteries from around 8kw of panels.

Welp, last night after running for a month, suddenly everything went dark... BOLLOCKS.
Headed out to the garage and it was terribly quiet and dark ?. I measured 52.x V on the easiest battery to get to, but noticed all 6 circuit breakers on the batteries had tripped WTF.
I clicked all the load AC breakers off and hit one of the battery breakers, inverters started to light up and all seemed ok. Flicked on the Solark loads and all was well and I had lights again. Turned on the other batteries and all good, so I hit the other AC load breakers and when I hit the SP6548 output breaker there was a bang and it all went dark again. Mrs QH decided to leave me to it lol.

I wasn't about to fuck around any more so just got the Solark running the house for the night and assumed the SP pair had taken a dump.
This morning I checked everything over and tried again, bang went the HVAC breakers when I tried it. Bugger, compressor dead ? Connected it to mains and it snarled like the devil but started. Sounded fine. Connected it back to the SP pair and everything was fine back to normal. I checked the logs and saw a gianormus spike right when the compressor was trying to start last night. Over 150A AC and over 600A from the batteries was logged before they cut off, I have 1300A worth of batteries and the SP6548 pair survived the hammering they got.

So that is my experience with them so far.....it took me the whole first half of a boring game the Yanks call football to type this on my phone lol. Happy Superbowl all.

 

[Gavin Stone]

An EZ start would really help you situation.

 

[Lt.Dan]

I have had an LV6548 fail, but never truly found out the cause or what actually failed, but MPP sent me and entirely new main board to replace and it's been running ever since. I think it was heat because they are downright terrible at cooling, and I had a really heavy load on it at the time it shut down.

But ever since then, they are downright impressive. I've had them close to max load quite a few times and they keep on chugging, other than that 1 time... I just wish they had more features. Just like you, my SolArk makes up for that.

 

[42OhmsPA]

Chiming in to show the TP6048 some love ?. I was airing up the tires on the tractor today and my 1.5hp compressor kicked on around 80psi charged. The lights in the garage had a slight flicker and the motor chludged a little bit. The BMS I had open logged 103a, wish I could have caught the second pack and the shunt as well, over 200a on the DC side. My only complaint was its slow communication with solar assistant, it didn't catch the inrush spike. ?

 

[Quattrohead]

An EZ start would really help you situation.

Yeah I know but I don't expect to be in this house past the end of the year because I am building our ultimate house and it will have a variable speed compressor and other energy saving building methods like ICF and spray foam insulation.

 

[MrM1]

Yeah I know but I don't expect to be in this house past the end of the year because I am building our ultimate house and it will have a variable speed compressor and other energy saving building methods like ICF and spray foam insulation.

Wow cool. Where is this dreamed home?

 

[Quattrohead]

Wow cool. Where is this dreamed home?

Central East coast Florida

 

[Samsonite801]

Yeah I know but I don't expect to be in this house past the end of the year because I am building our ultimate house and it will have a variable speed compressor and other energy saving building methods like ICF and spray foam insulation.

You could always take the soft-starter with you when you move (take pictures of the pre-mod wiring, and keep all the original removed parts).

I think one advantage of a soft-starter is, (even if your HVAC never did trip your inverter) it would soften the spike and be easier on any inverter supply circuit, not spike it near limits, and just be easier on the system in general, maybe help the transistors / inverter to last longer than they may otherwise, on any system.

 

[Zwy]

Soft start will help limp it along but I'll wager the heat pump is on it's way out.

 

[Quattrohead]

An interesting update on my situation here.
My 4 Felicity solar batteries are connected to the rest of the system by a single 125 amp circuit breaker and whilst it is underrated it has not given me any problems for the past few months. However several times since this incident I've noticed that this breaker has been tripped and actually now seems to be a little soft with its action. I turned it back on and was looking over my system and realized that the voltage at the Felicity batteries was about one volt less than the rest of the system. I gave both of the wires a tug and one of them came out rather too easily, I decided to just change the breaker.
The replacement breaker has a way better click action and the voltage on the Felicity batteries is now the same as the whole rest of the system. I opened the breaker up and there are definitely signs of distress.

Conclusions.
1. Check your connections regularly. I can crank on mine pretty fucking hard and apparently some of them are still coming loose as I have detailed here before.
2. It seems like breakers could be damaged by a very heavy load break situation, if you think your breaker has been abused you might want to proactively replace it.