So why buy an additional balancer if active balancing is part of bms? This turned into waste of time

[BarracudaBob]

Just be aware not sure if all bms are the same but mine came with ZERO documentation. None. Will be interesting to see how your batteries look out of the case. Not sure anyone has dissected the ecoworthy brand.

I hope we both have good success with change over to 16s. I will probably use old bms leads to tie my batteries together since they are bolt on.

I have to get my new battery working first….then plan to top balance old batteries - individual cells. Probably check capacity too. Spent around $200 on that cell tester. Going to use it or becomes wasted money.

Are you planning to top balance your cells …..42OhmsPA linked a good power supply in another post but I can’t find it now. Do you have a power supply to top balance or do you plan to see if the new jk bms 2a balancer can handle it?

I have plenty of power supplies and equipment so I'll top balance them. They've actually been doing really well lately. The clouds cause the voltage and current going up and down. I think reeks havoc on the whole balancing per cell issue. No. Afternoon's thunderstorms today so I'm watching him now and they're all coming up together nicely.

I watched a couple YouTubes about people taking eco worthy apart. I really don't have any complaints about them that one day things were out of whack. I can't imagine what a BMS goes through to have the voltage and current constantly jumping up and down every time a cloud goes by.

There are some great deals over the 4th of July weekend on eBay and Amazon. I I'm afraid if I have a couple brewskis I might go on a shopping spree

 

[D71]

The Victron 150/35 make my cells act goofy with runners when cloudy. The victron preset settings are higher then normally run - My AIO MPP Solar 3048 which is kinder and more gentle to my abused cells … again the victron ….. the sun gets goofy with clouds for-the problematic charging on mine TOO. Must be something related? I have to cut back on the victron settings.

Loading as in running inverter pulling watts is similar to what the 12v to 12v boxes do just have to put bigger charge on them while using system. Been my observation when am not busy watching paint dry. we collect electrons from the most unreliable power source around - SUN. I often wonder if our Sun goes Super Nova exactly when will we know? White dwarf…run away.

 

[Badbyte]

I often wonder if our Sun goes Super Nova exactly when will we know? White dwarf…run away.

We will know by the sudden and amazingly, excessivly large power increase spike you've ever seen going into your batteries and loads!
Of course, by then we may not be alive to see and rejoyce about said increase in power, lol, but our panels may produce 200-600% more power before burning out.

 

[D71]

We will know by the sudden and amazingly, excessivly large power increase spike you've ever seen going into your batteries and loads!
Of course, by then we may not be alive to see and rejoyce about said increase in power, lol, but our panels may produce 200-600% more power before burning out.

All the more reason to get the flux capacitor operational to jump back in time. vs being destroyed. stainless steel shell.

 

[cs1234]

We will know by the sudden and amazingly, excessivly large power increase spike you've ever seen going into your batteries and loads!
Of course, by then we may not be alive to see and rejoyce about said increase in power, lol, but our panels may produce 200-600% more power before burning out.

So many blown fuses and tripped breakers.

 

[BarracudaBob]

All the more reason to get the flux capacitor operational to jump back in time. vs being destroyed. stainless steel shell.

That's why I have my flex capacitor in a continuous loop right before the end of days when the big one goes off and that massive surge to my panels fries everything it loops me back and I just relived the same time over and over each time better because I know what's going to happen. Knowing that I'll ever never ever get past that fateful date when the new president takes the office in January. End of days are near

 

[Badbyte]

Dangit...there you go poppin my bubble...sigh...

In the end, I guess, when the power being supplied by your panels exceeds their rated sticker max power would be the day you know that there is a problem with our sun, or the neighbours newly repainded house is reflecting WAY too much light at your panels...lol.

 

[BarracudaBob]

Dangit...there you go poppin my bubble...sigh...

In the end, I guess, when the power being supplied by your panels exceeds their rated sticker max power would be the day you know that there is a problem with our sun, or the neighbours newly repainded house is reflecting WAY too much light at your panels...lol.

One repeat cycle 3 I'll build graphene capacitors to store the first uS of energy pulse and take it with me back in time.

 

[D71]

Anybody running a Victron Shunt?

I have one tied to my Solar Assistant….not foundit to be accurate compared to State of Charge from the 4 each various battery VIP bms. Or even the 3048 inverter.

Just so ppl without blue tooth know their Victron or at least my Victron is not a real good indicator of the battery SOC.
Again Battery BMS Blue Tooth proves to be a winner and more accurate way to monitor and see what is going on with batteries..

I strongly recommend ppl get blue tooth bms batteries.





Cells nice and balanced out by the VIP BMS it does a minute` slow balance. Be nice to find actual documentation. Always amazed how many leads are on it vs JK or JBD bms 48volt 16s models



Not sure you should trust Victron Shunts. Mine has been tied to Solar Assistant and compared to bms SOC from 4 each batteries the victron is always drifting off into lala la land. I’ve adjusted it several times and it is updated. Hmmmmm …… the inverter was doing way better job then the Victron Shunt monitoring the SOC and reporting it accurately. I tempt installed it when first purchased ….. but left it on to keep checking it. Can’t say Victron Shunt is accurate to track and measure for ppl using it to do SOC on their systems without battery blue tooth bms.

Hmmmm…. Anybody else compare their bms blue tooth SOC with their Victron shunt readings? Looks like bad storm brewing so putting cloudy sunshine into batteries in case lose grid. I think the VIP bms is not bad… Highly recommend blue tooth to monitor your cells and soc.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Your statements are contrary to the general consensus.

It has been well documented that BMS SoC are not particularly accurate, and MANY lack sufficient sensitivity at low currents. Some won't even register a current below 2A.

All shunts require regular synchronizing to 100% when a full charge is attained to maintain accuracy. If this doesn't happen, accuracy drifts.

I run a Batrium BMS that uses it's own external shunt on an NMC battery (strong voltage to SoC relationship). I also run a BMV-702. I last "recalibrated" them a little over two weeks ago:



2% deviation. I'm good with that.

The most common reason for Victron shunts to be inaccurate is improper configuration.

 

[BarracudaBob]

I have one that I can switch from the battery BMS's or the Victron via Solar Assistant. Most of my batteries are EG4 so I have to admit I don't use the Smart Shut as often. I like seeing the high/low cell voltages witch remains an issue. My Smart Shunt works perfectly but my BMS's communication is more-better right now. For a DIY battery with no comps it would be perfect.

 

[D71]

Don’t worry my assessment won’t make your Victron stock crash. add more money to it. rainy day…. usually my runner cell will rub on bms COV with a trip so knew they were for most part stuffed to brim. I backed off run more conservative charge. SOC report. Bluetooth. Other 3 bms were in same range of SOC each other while the Victron not so good. I originally threw Victron shunt on to test before reboxing. Noticed not so good …. Been on for a while . Better then watching paint dry.

Nawww I watched several youtube videos and have tried several settings - this shunt SOC is just not passing the mustard test. Are they inaccurate or have I missed an obvious?

Don’t no one say it is not actual aka fake Victron account bought it from licensed dealer.

Ok so here are the about latest settings as demo from Current Connected on youtube. I tried Will Prowse setup too. Along with other youtubers.

I am always open minded. I’ve adjusted tail current from 4.00% to 2.00% 55.2 is where my charge voltage is set…changed it few times.

Current Connected with 12v demo.

Will Prowse example settings. Granted these are 12v

55.2vdc divide by 4 = ~ 13.8vdc 13.8vdc divide by 4 = ~3.45vdc per cell “if” all are even.
Basically 10 set parameters so What am I missing?

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Don’t worry my assessment won’t make your Victron stock crash. add more money to it. rainy day….

Victron is not a publicly traded company. I own no stock in it.

usually my runner cell will rub on bms COV with a trip so knew they were for most part stuffed to brim.

So you have runners - meaning your batteries are imblanced, but you're going to put more faith in the BMS SoC than a separate objective current counting device. This is not logical.

I backed off run more conservative charge. SOC report. Bluetooth. Other 3 bms were in same range of SOC each other while the Victron not so good. I originally threw Victron shunt on to test before reboxing. Noticed not so good …. Been on for a while . Better then watching paint dry.

"not so good" - I can't find an objective definition as it pertains to shunt accuracy. Can you clarify? I have shown you that my two shunts agree within 2% after > two weeks with no synchronizations (I never charge to 100%). Is that "not so good"?

Nawww I watched several youtube videos and have tried several settings - this shunt SOC is just not passing the mustard test. Are they inaccurate or have I missed an obvious?

RTFM is how you properly configure a shunt not random youtube videos.

Don’t no one say it is not actual aka fake Victron account bought it from licensed dealer.

No idea why you would go there. This is just silly. Fake Victron products will not work with VictronConnect after the first firmware update.

Ok so here are the about latest settings as demo from Current Connected on youtube. I tried Will Prowse setup too. Along with other youtubers.

Why would you do that. Is your system identical to theirs?

I am always open minded. I’ve adjusted tail current from 4.00% to 2.00% 55.2 is where my charge voltage is set…changed it few times.

So, you're just taking shots in the dark rather than RTFM?

Current Connected with 12v demo.

Not relevant.

Will Prowse example settings. Granted these are 12v

55.2vdc divide by 4 = ~ 13.8vdc 13.8vdc divide by 4 = ~3.45vdc per cell “if” all are even.

Not relevant.

Basically 10 set parameters so What am I missing?

Two questions:

What is your charger's absorption voltage?
What is your charger's tail current?

 

[42OhmsPA]

I wish I could get my WonVon to talk to Solar Assistant. I considered purchasing a smart shunt but I'd have to drop to much of my frugal money to get one with multiple lug connections.
I gave up on trusting the BMS for SOC, I spent hours getting them fairly accurate but they will never be as good as a shunt in my experience. I had issues at low currents with 3 packs in parallel, its only going to get worse with 4.
When I was using my 100/20 MPPT to charge up a new bank the bms wasn't reading anything with the charge rate set at 2 amps but the Victron app an WonVon were in agreement.

 

[D71]

Victron is not a publicly traded company. I own no stock in it.



So you have runners - meaning your batteries are imblanced, but you're going to put more faith in the BMS SoC than a separate objective current counting device. This is not logical.



"not so good" - I can't find an objective definition as it pertains to shunt accuracy. Can you clarify? I have shown you that my two shunts agree within 2% after > two weeks with no synchronizations (I never charge to 100%). Is that "not so good"?



RTFM is how you properly configure a shunt not random youtube videos.



No idea why you would go there. This is just silly. Fake Victron products will not work with VictronConnect after the first firmware update.



Why would you do that. Is your system identical to theirs?



So, you're just taking shots in the dark rather than RTFM?



Not relevant.



Not relevant.



Two questions:

What is your charger's absorption voltage?
What is your charger's tail current?

The “stock” was a joke Could care less. You do seem joined at hip with Victron. Maybe to close.

Blah

Do you see anything out with the settings have shown for victron shunt? You stated it was set wrong. Your assessment. You see my setting the charge rate matches the inverter.

Kind of obvious when charge from inverter stops it is full. Even secondary charger when used stops it is full. So won ton soup so obvious …. Again you can see the Shunt settings as screen shot shown. You said they were improper earlier. Are they improper?

 

[sunshine_eggo]

The “stock” was a joke Could care less.

Not sure if you meant to, but you have told me that you care more than you could, i.e., there is a level of caring below your current level of caring. I think you meant to say, "I couldn't care less." - this means that you care at an objective measurement of zero cares.

You do seem joined at hip with Victron. Maybe to close.

I am an enthusiast. I love Victron because of what it has done for me for the last 5 years. I have literally had my hardware upgraded with meaningful new features 3-4 times through firmware updates while enjoying bulletproof reliability and the ability to monitor/configure my system from 3.5 hours away - massive peace of mind.

Don't tell them, but I also have a PowMr 24/3000 AiO, so I'm somewhat agnostic and willing to say that not every job requires blue (unless I depend on it).

Blah

Do you see anything out with the settings have shown for victron shunt? You stated it was set wrong. Your assessment. You see my setting the charge rate matches the inverter.

Kind of obvious when charge from inverter stops it is full. Even secondary charger when used stops it is full. So won ton soup so obvious …. Again you can see the Shunt settings as screen shot shown. You said they were improper earlier. Are they improper?

I'm guessing you missed this:

Two questions:

What is your charger's absorption voltage?
What is your charger's tail current?

One can't properly configure their shunt without the above information. I did assume you charge with solar. You showing me shunt settings alone tells me nothing at all. Here are my shunt settings:



Can you tell me if they're right? No. I'm the only one on the planet that can tell you because I also know the actual charge parameters (BTW, they are correct).

Since you indicated AC charging, there is a third question:

If you charge exclusively with AC charging, what is your float voltage?

I'll summarize and number the three questions here for your convenience to make sure you don't miss them:

1. What is your charger's absorption voltage?
2. What is your charger's tail current?
3. If you charge exclusively with AC charging, what is your float voltage?

Once you answer these, I can tell you what your proper shunt settings should be.

 

[D71]

Not sure if you meant to, but you have told me that you care more than you could, i.e., there is a level of caring below your current level of caring. I think you meant to say, "I couldn't care less." - this means that you care at an objective measurement of zero cares.



I am an enthusiast. I love Victron because of what it has done for me for the last 5 years. I have literally had my hardware upgraded with meaningful new features 3-4 times through firmware updates while enjoying bulletproof reliability and the ability to monitor/configure my system from 3.5 hours away - massive peace of mind.

Don't tell them, but I also have a PowMr 24/3000 AiO, so I'm somewhat agnostic and willing to say that not every job requires blue (unless I depend on it).



I'm guessing you missed this:



One can't properly configure their shunt without the above information. I did assume you charge with solar. You showing me shunt settings alone tells me nothing at all. Here are my shunt settings:

View attachment 226700

Can you tell me if they're right? No. I'm the only one on the planet that can tell you because I also know the actual charge parameters (BTW, they are correct).

Since you indicated AC charging, there is a third question:

If you charge exclusively with AC charging, what is your float voltage?

I'll summarize and number the three questions here for your convenience to make sure you don't miss them:

1. What is your charger's absorption voltage?
2. What is your charger's tail current?
3. If you charge exclusively with AC charging, what is your float voltage?

Once you answer these, I can tell you what your proper shunt settings should be.

What You told me to “RTFM’ I can’t read. I look at pictures and videos. “FTM”

Flux capacitor bound.

So a shunt measures and determines SOC? Really?

I rubbed every part of my body with the mppt manual too….. “RTFM” victron Osmosis isn’t working. Help
Me got 2 left feet on the ground can’t dance but can jump around. Pass that don’t bogart.




Katie bar the door. Nobody gets out of life alive.

I can’t read and don’t make fun of me…. Meanie.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Huh. For someone that can't read, you manage to get a lot of words out onto the interwebz in mostly the correct order/context. Good for you.

That's not the manual. That's the quick installation guide. Furthermore, I thought you were aware that you don't have a 48V battery. You have a 51.2V battery. Why would you set it to values for a 48V battery?

Since manuals are hard for you, I'll help you out:

7. All features and settings

www.victronenergy.com

The “charged voltage” parameter should be set to 0.2V or 0.3V below the float voltage of the charger.

The table below indicates the recommended settings for lead acid batteries.

Nominal battery voltage​	Charged voltage setting​
12V​	13.2V​
24V​	26.4V​
36V​	39.6V​
48V​	52.8V​

It's also well known that solar charging can trigger false syncs due to their variable current. It's very possible for a solar charger to hold > "charged voltage" and supply < tail current % especially for LFP.

Then one refers to troubleshooting:

10. Troubleshooting

www.victronenergy.com

where,

10.3.11. Synchronisation issues​

If the battery monitor does not synchronise automatically, one possibility could be that the battery never reaches a fully charged state. Fully charge the battery and see if the state of charge eventually indicates 100%.

Another possibility is that the charged voltage setting should be lowered and/or the tail current setting should be increased.

It is also possible that the battery monitor synchronises too early. This can happen in solar systems or in systems that have fluctuating charge currents. If this is the case change the following settings:

• Increase the “charged voltage" to slightly below the absorption charge voltage. For example: 14.2V in case of 14.4V absorption voltage (for a 12V battery).
• Increase the “charged detection time” and/or decrease the "tail current" to prevent an early reset due to passing clouds.

Since this is a DIY SOLAR forum, most users here benefit from setting charged current to 0.2V below absorption.

You clearly missed them again, but now, hopefully, you understand why the questions are relevant:

I'll summarize and number the three questions here for your convenience to make sure you don't miss them:

1. What is your charger's absorption voltage?
2. What is your charger's tail current?
3. If you charge exclusively with AC charging, what is your float voltage?

Once you answer these, I can tell you what your proper shunt settings should be.

As it stands, it's finally become evident to me that you don't actually want help. You just need to argue and avoid answering very simple and easy questions targeted at addressing your problem. Hope that works for you as your highway of life leads you closer to the end.

To summarize:

1. The shunt needs to be set to 0.2V below absorption if you are charging with solar or 0.2V below float if charging exclusively with an AC charger.
2. Your tail current needs to be slightly higher than the actual tail current for the charger.

 

[D71]

Picture this if you will Rod Sterling.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Picture this if you will Rod Sterling.

View attachment 226705

So you have confirmed without uncertainty that you:

1) have configured the shunt incorrectly.
2) can't read.

 

[D71]

So you have confirmed without uncertainty that you:

1) have configured the shunt incorrectly.
2) can't read.

Look stop with the harrassment not everyone can read in the future. Will has a 5 o’clock shadow deep voice. Where am I what year is this. How did you survive covid?

I’m shunted

 

[D71]

Now that power is not flipping on and off. help …..Grid Down. Whoooaaa grid up Nooooo down again. Climate climate. It is storm over …. all clear modem back on line. Close one …Almost lost you.

Can a shunt by it self do SOC … what does a shiny shunt really measure? Current passing through. Shunt Drift for SOC is algo software? power to the ppl. Algo ….makes SOC ….Current goes through shunt.

Can’t read….what is not there to read.

I got flux cap hooked to victron now….500a not a problem it is blue can handle the surge of 88mph

Victron video already watched it . ~12:30 …… over time more more inaccurate. Must resync and set sOC ever 2 week. It get out of shape with drifty….drifting videos. Sideways…like.

He whistles when talking. puke factor. Puke Calculator what potato salad. Even with everything set right it loses and “drfits” worse and worse over time. Video is interesting. Victron shunt is not a precision instrument.

Flux set to 88mph. Get your Shunt wired to you flux cap.

Look ma no runners the set charging where it is tame …. again… so I’m so berry berry pretty. Like the song in Angry Management. Ever watch that movie?


Battery soc Won’t be long now…GO INTO FLOATY PIE nice tame gentle….. no water boarding - training sessions… victron 20% offfffff DRIFT…… huge defying drift been severalweek drift since sync’ed. Did you not know about sync? I bet lot of puppies are flying and cruising along singing a song . Hey hey we da monkeys. .


Can’t read. Can’t dance. Gotta sync sync da sync song. Shunts don’t do SOC algo do ….algo kaput. …need sync after 2 weeks… Phoo phoo. Poo

10. Troubleshooting

www.victronenergy.com

Yellow Dwarf ….puke. Not a factor of my settings at all. Whatever.

Videos are first line … listen to him whistle yes it says in instructions will drift.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I'm guessing you're day drinking?

What about you makes you want to make fun of someone's "whistle" when they're speaking a second language? Classy.

5. Operation

www.victronenergy.com

For a reliable readout, the state of charge, as displayed by the battery monitor, must self-synchronise regularly with the true state of charge of the battery. This is to prevent drift of the “State of charge” value over time. A synchronisation will reset the state of charge of the battery to 100%.

We can debate "every two weeks" vs. "regularly" if you like; however, the need for regular synching is common knowledge for any battery monitor that counts current and computes SoC - including a BMS as ALL will drift.

Maybe you spend too much time in chit chat and have missed all the posts about the inaccuracies inherent in cheap Chinese BMS.

I can't help but giggle that you would link a video that clearly explains how your shunt is improperly configured in an effort to prove your shunt is configured properly.

Hopefully, at this point, any one who can still stomach reading along can see that your opinion of the accuracy of a Victron shunt is based on an incorrect configuration.

 

[D71]

I'm guessing you're day drinking?

What about you makes you want to make fun of someone's "whistle" when they're speaking a second language? Classy.

5. Operation

www.victronenergy.com

For a reliable readout, the state of charge, as displayed by the battery monitor, must self-synchronise regularly with the true state of charge of the battery. This is to prevent drift of the “State of charge” value over time. A synchronisation will reset the state of charge of the battery to 100%.

We can debate "every two weeks" vs. "regularly" if you like; however, the need for regular synching is common knowledge for any battery monitor that counts current and computes SoC - including a BMS as ALL will drift.

Maybe you spend too much time in chit chat and have missed all the posts about the inaccuracies inherent in cheap Chinese BMS.

I can't help but giggle that you would link a video that clearly explains how your shunt is improperly configured in an effort to prove your shunt is configured properly.

Hopefully, at this point, any one who can still stomach reading along can see that your opinion of the accuracy of a Victron shunt is based on an incorrect configuration.

24% drift for SOC it is the shunt….Algorithm DRIFT. wow

I use to speak several languages. shunt working as designed It is just inaccurate as a drift. Mine was around $89 on sale.plus tax-shipping was your’s free ….is it your best friend? Check that stock.

Chit chat hmmmm mo fun. You ought to come over there. Your signature says ‘you have reputation for insulting ppl.” be easier to talk.

I gave you my settings so what do you think is wrong? It is shunt algorithm DRIFT. 24% that is significant.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

24% drift for SOC it is the shunt….Algorithm DRIFT. wow

"several weeks" without a sync? Given that it's not properly configured, I can believe 24% especially since it's likely NEVER been synched unless you did it manually and at the correct time.

I gave you my settings so what do you think is wrong? It is shunt algorithm DRIFT. 24% that is significant.

Asked and answered. Again, for your convenience:

I'll summarize and number the three questions here for your convenience to make sure you don't miss them:

1. What is your charger's absorption voltage?
2. What is your charger's tail current?
3. If you charge exclusively with AC charging, what is your float voltage?

Once you answer these, I can tell you what your proper shunt settings should be.

To summarize:

1. The shunt needs to be set to 0.2V below absorption if you are charging with solar or 0.2V below float if charging exclusively with an AC charger.
2. Your tail current needs to be slightly higher than the actual tail current for the charger.

If you can't understand any of the above quoted text, please let me know.