42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
See my reply in the BMS comparison thread.
I did order a standalone 5A active balancer yesterday but I won't share anymore about it or recommend it until I put it to use.
So why buy an additional balancer if active balancing is part of bms? This turned into waste of time
- Thread starter D71
- Start date
I did order a standalone 5A active balancer yesterday but I won't share anymore about it or recommend it until I put it to use.
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
I have the 4th Generating NEEY I am going to try. Work and fishing on the weekend keeps getting in the way of my battery project
I like the idea of a separate balancer. Makes it simple...
JBD smart bms 7s 10s 36v 13s 14s 16s 17s 20s 21s 48v 60v 72v bluetooth 200A bms lifepo4 battery bateria 18650 balance board
Blue Uart485 CAN/7--21S 200A lifepo4
$139.00
The price on this 15A is almost suspicions
When go back with himassi cells after balancing may change them over to this jk bms bought just for them 16s. These jk bms like shown don't come with documents.
china I want to see if it can tame the runner cells with 2a active balancer.This jk has heater output. Why bought it but Again no documents for heater. .
The new battery build will be -15kw in vertical case with jk bms as well - for around $2100 into it.
I don't like the solid bus bars came with individual cells for this new battery box build. Think the solid bars are fine for other applications. Not this box or would be further along. Got to get it going before take himassi down.
When bought my 12v himassi …….. good cells were expensive and hard to get good ones...lot of bs about fake codes going on and bms were hard to find too.
I needed a system because electrical grid keeps going down. These himassi worked.
I will probably build another -15kw battery. Will have about 35k if do it.
We found with locomotive lead acid batteries there has to be heavy pull balance with higher charging. . . . Locomotive lead acid cost $10,000- $15000 a set. So we spent good deal time trying resolve troubles for loco fleets. Have found lifepo charging with no load could be bad with mppt and everytime do it my 12v batteries get screwy
When unpacked mine will look like this….with heaters and vip bms. Beefy. Bolt ons.
My runners get worse with mppt too.
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
I hear great things about that model and then how they just quit working. What a crap shoot.. like rolling the dice.When go back with himassi cells after balancing may change them over to this jk bms bought just for them 16s. These jk bms like shown don't come with documents.
This jk has heater output. Why bought it but Again no documents for heater. .
The new battery build will be -15kw in vertical case with jk bms as well - for around $2100 into it.
I don't like the solid bus bars came with individual cells for this new battery box build. Think the solid bars are fine for other applications. Not this box or would be further along. Got to get it going before take himassi down.
When bought my 12v himassi …….. good cells were expensive and hard to get good ones...lot of bs about fake codes going on and bms were hard to find too.
I needed a system because electrical grid keeps going down. These himassi worked.
I will probably build another -15kw battery. Will have about 35k if do it.
We found with locomotive lead acid batteries there has to be heavy pull balance with higher charging. . . . Locomotive lead acid cost $10,000- $15000 a set. So we spent good deal time trying resolve troubles for loco fleets. Have found lifepo charging with no load could be bad with mppt and everytime do it my 12v batteries get screwy
View attachment 225713
When unpacked mine will look like this….with heaters and vip bms. Beefy. Bolt ons.
View attachment 225951
My runners get worse with mppt too.
My system is always under load. I run a mini-split and 2 frig/freezers and 1 deep freezer on a EG4 3KW. I never seem to peek over 2K. I have 2 more to add in. I figured I would do dual with one spare. Working on my total portable system. Not there yet.
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Agreed, I need to get the kayak out and start ripping lips again. Bass are pretty easy but I've spent way to much time targeting musky. I really want to hook into one on the kayak, a few years ago I spent about 30 minutes floating overtop of them near some old logs; threw damned near the whole tackle box a time, unfortunately they weren't feeding and it was to warm to get a reaction bite.I have the 4th Generating NEEY I am going to try. Work and fishing on the weekend keeps getting in the way of my battery project
I like the idea of a separate balancer. Makes it simple...
Check out battery hookup for US stock 300A, I ordered my most recent 200A from Docan out of Texas inventory. I should have ordered more 300A from ali when they were ~$100 with free shipping...
robbob2112
frankencord Doing more research, mosty harmless
You didn't mention you had a flux capacitor... with that you can go back to yesterday, buy a lotto ticket and split the proceeds with me.
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
I wanted to make sure my batteries were 100% stable before I opened up the time space vortex. I put that on there for my grandson. We had some fun with it. I showed it to a friend and told him all the batteries were back up for my flux capacitor... I think he believed it, he has seen some of the crazy stuff I made
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Your main + and - are on opposite ends of the bus bar correct? One towards the bottom, the other towards the top.
Informative thread.
The way cagle was doing it for couple batteries they could be reboxed for battery case. Ever notice 12v packs have no compression?
I eye balled these on aliexpress If jk don’t work then will look at them more.
If you ever notice these things go in trends Someone like Off Grid Garage says good everyone else repeats “good.” Blah moo oink cluck so on
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
No, A & B side to split up the current. Only left side is connected with #2, Commercial Breaker equipment will have dual power for redundancy. I will run another one on right for B. Only using a few 'bullet breakers' right now. All heavy industrial equipment. I have a huge 800 amp one I bought and didn't use it. May sell it to buy a battery box.
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Imagine trying to balance the new 400volt batteries that are coming ….most inverters will be going 400vdc if these take off.
Expensive for now like most new things Several of the inverters there are up to 400vdc for battery. Shssss……
powerstore.com
They use small battery leads. 400vdc
Expensive for now like most new things Several of the inverters there are up to 400vdc for battery. Shssss……
BYD Batteries
Uncover the legacy of BYD Solar, a driving force in renewable energy. Delve into their history and the game-changing BYD HVL battery system.
powerstore.com
They use small battery leads. 400vdc
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
Think of all that copper they will save $$$$$Imagine trying to balance the new 400volt batteries that are coming ….most inverters will be going 400vdc if these take off.
Expensive for now like most new things Several of the inverters there are up to 400vdc for battery. Shssss……
View attachment 225994
BYD Batteries
Uncover the legacy of BYD Solar, a driving force in renewable energy. Delve into their history and the game-changing BYD HVL battery system.
They use small battery leads. 400vdc
cs1234
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- May 9, 2022
- Messages
- 2,838
You don't even need to make contact between the cables and posts for current to transfer!
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
I just noticed that!!!
Gotta see if I can find an oscillation overthruster model on thingiverse...
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
They make a cool Flux Capacitor alarm clock: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:flux_capacitorI just noticed that!!!
Gotta see if I can find an oscillation overthruster model on thingiverse...
And a Oscillation Over thruster too: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205814
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
I was searching for a radioactive on/off push switch I could by. Haven't found it yet.
robbob2112
frankencord Doing more research, mosty harmless
The real problem is he needs 1.21 gigawatts to power the time machine and I don't see a Mr Fusion or a lightning bolt? He better hook a wire to the clock tower NOW!!!!
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
Or a few banana peals, they are high in radioactive potassium
My DIY 16s 280ah pack is currently setup with an ANT BMS that has active balancing built in and enabled.
The balancing current is limmited to a maximum of 180 mA (0.18A).
When I first connected all the cells together in series and started charging (no load connected), all was good until it reached 3.5 volt average across the batteries and then the cells started to deviate in voltage greatly. The voltage difference was almost 0.95 volts between lowest and highest cells.
Active balancing in the bms kicked in and while monitoring the BMS on my phone, I could see the voltages slowly lower on the high cells and slowly raise on the low cells. I had to manually set my external power supply to Constant Current mode set to 0.5 amps for the ballancing to proceed smoothly untill the pack was full.
I found that charging currents higher then 0.5A initially caused individual cell over voltage protection to triger.
It took just over 3 days of messing about to get the batteries to be within 20 mV (0.02 volts) of each other.
Now I can charge the pack at 70 amps until it's full and the bms works flawlessly and the cell V differnce is 20 mv or less at end of charge.
Btw, my bms is setup to stop ballancing once the batteries are within 20 mV of or less each other. This setting can be changed in the bms.
The thing to take from this is that with a new pack, until you top balance it yourself using your bms or and external active bms, the higher the charging current the quicker you will triger single cell over voltage alarms since the active balancer in the bms can at most do 180mV of current to balance the cells. Unless there is a massive difference in the chemistry or internal resistance of each or your cells, once top balanced, they should not deviate by much over time, but it is still advisable to check onve in a while to make sure, safety first.
Best advice I can give is, on a new pack, first use and external active balancer that can do 2 amps or more to get the batteries as close as you can to each other, that way the active balancer in your bms will be able to take over to keep them balanced after that without issue (at least mine does so far). Check once a week or month, whatever makes you feel safe, to make sure they are still balanced, adjust and rebalance as necessary.
Using an external 2 amp or higher active balancer will get the cells balaned quicker so you can charge the pack at a higher rate and the balancer should be able to keep up.
Before (getting closer but still 150 mV difference at high charging current):
After (no manual balancing was done since run_time was at day 4):
The balancing current is limmited to a maximum of 180 mA (0.18A).
When I first connected all the cells together in series and started charging (no load connected), all was good until it reached 3.5 volt average across the batteries and then the cells started to deviate in voltage greatly. The voltage difference was almost 0.95 volts between lowest and highest cells.
Active balancing in the bms kicked in and while monitoring the BMS on my phone, I could see the voltages slowly lower on the high cells and slowly raise on the low cells. I had to manually set my external power supply to Constant Current mode set to 0.5 amps for the ballancing to proceed smoothly untill the pack was full.
I found that charging currents higher then 0.5A initially caused individual cell over voltage protection to triger.
It took just over 3 days of messing about to get the batteries to be within 20 mV (0.02 volts) of each other.
Now I can charge the pack at 70 amps until it's full and the bms works flawlessly and the cell V differnce is 20 mv or less at end of charge.
Btw, my bms is setup to stop ballancing once the batteries are within 20 mV of or less each other. This setting can be changed in the bms.
The thing to take from this is that with a new pack, until you top balance it yourself using your bms or and external active bms, the higher the charging current the quicker you will triger single cell over voltage alarms since the active balancer in the bms can at most do 180mV of current to balance the cells. Unless there is a massive difference in the chemistry or internal resistance of each or your cells, once top balanced, they should not deviate by much over time, but it is still advisable to check onve in a while to make sure, safety first.
Best advice I can give is, on a new pack, first use and external active balancer that can do 2 amps or more to get the batteries as close as you can to each other, that way the active balancer in your bms will be able to take over to keep them balanced after that without issue (at least mine does so far). Check once a week or month, whatever makes you feel safe, to make sure they are still balanced, adjust and rebalance as necessary.
Using an external 2 amp or higher active balancer will get the cells balaned quicker so you can charge the pack at a higher rate and the balancer should be able to keep up.
Before (getting closer but still 150 mV difference at high charging current):
After (no manual balancing was done since run_time was at day 4):
On a side note, over 2 years ago I bought a used, pre-packaged 36 volt 65Ah LiFePo4 battery to power my computers UPS (uniterruptible power supply).
Lithium Pros model M3265-36 with bluetooth connectivity.
The thing that caught my attention was that the bms they were using was an ANT BMS. I've had zero problems with this battery over the last 2 years, hence why I chose to use an ANT bms for my own DIY battery.
And, yes, I had a power outage recently...lol...
Lithium Pros model M3265-36 with bluetooth connectivity.
The thing that caught my attention was that the bms they were using was an ANT BMS. I've had zero problems with this battery over the last 2 years, hence why I chose to use an ANT bms for my own DIY battery.
And, yes, I had a power outage recently...lol...
BarracudaBob
Harvesting free photons from clean fusion
I ordered a JK BMS with 2A active balancer with LCD, can't wait to have a little fun. Off with their battery covers!
Now I'm curious to see their guts as well!!! Let the surgery begin, with all the gory little details please and thank you...
Just be aware not sure if all bms are the same but mine came with ZERO documentation. None. Will be interesting to see how your batteries look out of the case. Not sure anyone has dissected the ecoworthy brand.
I hope we both have good success with change over to 16s. I will probably use old bms leads to tie my batteries together since they are bolt on.
I have to get my new battery working first….then plan to top balance old batteries - individual cells. Probably check capacity too. Spent around $200 on that cell tester. Going to use it or becomes wasted money.
Are you planning to top balance your cells …..42OhmsPA linked a good power supply in another post but I can’t find it now. Do you have a power supply to top balance or do you plan to see if the new jk bms 2a balancer can handle it?