solar camera project (looking for advice)

[SignatureSigner]

This is a small solar project idea I have and I was looking for some general advice on different aspects of the project.

I want to run a wifi camera on a hill about 1/3 of a mile line of sight.
I want to experiment with wifi halo technology and have calculated the total camera setup to be about a 5-8w draw @ 5v (USB)
not planning on using an inverter and just thinking of using the built-in USB on the charge controller

I live in Northwestern PA and get 3.5-4h of 'peak sunlight' in the summer months

I've been trying to calculate what would be needed but I want an outside opinion,

current setup idea
50w mono panel LINK
basic PWM controller LINK
35AH deep cycle LINK

would this be sufficient for the 5-8w*24hr?

about 125wh per day so the math seems to check out but again I wanted an outside opinion

trying to stay as cheap as possible as it's more of a geeky project than anything practical.
If anyone has any input that would be great!

 

[Checkthisout]

This is a small solar project idea I have and I was looking for some general advice on different aspects of the project.

I want to run a wifi camera on a hill about 1/3 of a mile line of sight.
I want to experiment with wifi halo technology and have calculated the total camera setup to be about a 5-8w draw @ 5v (USB)
not planning on using an inverter and just thinking of using the built-in USB on the charge controller

I live in Northwestern PA and get 3.5-4h of 'peak sunlight' in the summer months

I've been trying to calculate what would be needed but I want an outside opinion,

current setup idea
50w mono panel LINK
basic PWM controller LINK
35AH deep cycle LINK

would this be sufficient for the 5-8w*24hr?

about 125wh per day so the math seems to check out but again I wanted an outside opinion

trying to stay as cheap as possible as it's more of a geeky project than anything practical.
If anyone has any input that would be great!

No link to the camera you want to use?

First things first and that's making sure you'll get a wifi signal that far.

 

[SignatureSigner]

No link to the camera you want to use?

First things first and that's making sure you'll get a wifi signal that far.

Im using wifi halow PTP, its rated for up to 1.2km with VERY low power draw as its meant for IOT
here's the link if your interested
LINK on aliexpress of course

Im planning on using that link with a small USB wifi ap and a wyze cam v3
should be around 5-8w all USB all CHEAP

 

[Checkthisout]

Im using wifi halow PTP, its rated for up to 1.2km with VERY low power draw as its meant for IOT
here's the link if your interested
LINK on aliexpress of course

Im planning on using that link with a small USB wifi ap and a wyze cam v3
should be around 5-8w all USB all CHEAP

So my approach woukd be to get everything you need to make the camera work. Use a battery you already have to power it and verify the camera/ap/ptp etc will work and use something like a fluke meter to measure its power draw and after those things are verified

Then, size your solar system/batteries etc.

 

[AntronX]

Go with LiFePO4 battery. AGM battery is inferior. You can get 50Ah 12V on Amazon for $100. Or get 4x LFP cells like these and cheap $15 BMS board so you have control over charging below freezing because store bought sealed LFP battery may not allow you to do that. Get 100W solar panel for similar price that the one you are looking at.

 

[kommando]

I run a 20w led pir lamp and a WiFi camera off a 100AH gel battery and a cracked and coated 250w panel. I need to charge the battery externally once in Dec and then again in Jan, it runs the rest of the year unattended.

 

[skyking1]

great project and following along for the ride. I can get the power usage for a Ubiquiti Nano M2 if you want a more robust PTP internet connection.
I have used those for many years connecting shop buildings for friends.
Cheapest nano M2 price.
https://c3aero.com/products/ubiquit...S7e9ANZQmPYViPXzBvWGjnHh74icSTSIaAvUuEALw_wcB

 

[JoeHam]

Go with LiFePO4 battery. AGM battery is inferior. You can get 50Ah 12V on Amazon for $100. Or get 4x LFP cells like these and cheap $15 BMS board so you have control over charging below freezing because store bought sealed LFP battery may not allow you to do that. Get 100W solar panel for similar price that the one you are looking at.

That is assuming you never need to charge it in sub freezing temperatures.

In winter there may be many days in a row where that is the case and you need to charge.

For an application like this, in most locales, AGM will likely be a better choice

 

[Zwy]

I run a pair of these between the shop and house. Internet comes into the shop and I beam it to house. These have some great power. There are newer models but these work so well I bought a pair of spares.

As for battery, unless this is in a heated space or doesn't get below 32°F, use the AGM. In winter, you may have to swap it out with another battery to recharge it fully to prevent sulfation.

 

[Supervstech]

This is a small solar project idea I have and I was looking for some general advice on different aspects of the project.

I want to run a wifi camera on a hill about 1/3 of a mile line of sight.
I want to experiment with wifi halo technology and have calculated the total camera setup to be about a 5-8w draw @ 5v (USB)
not planning on using an inverter and just thinking of using the built-in USB on the charge controller

I live in Northwestern PA and get 3.5-4h of 'peak sunlight' in the summer months

I've been trying to calculate what would be needed but I want an outside opinion,

current setup idea
50w mono panel LINK
basic PWM controller LINK
35AH deep cycle LINK

would this be sufficient for the 5-8w*24hr?

about 125wh per day so the math seems to check out but again I wanted an outside opinion

trying to stay as cheap as possible as it's more of a geeky project than anything practical.
If anyone has any input that would be great!

Always figure worst case… 8W for 24hr is 192Wh, the charge controller will consume some energy, a 35Ah agm provides 440Wh on paper, BUT the minuscule drain of 8W likely will bump this up significantly. Likely 600Wh at such a low draw. But using the specs, figure 50% max drain for safety, so, 220Wh cutting it close. With much consumption of the usb controller, it COULD drain below the 50% margin, but, likely, all daylight hour loads would be covered by solar, so, overnight draw works out pretty acceptable from the battery. Assuming there are no stormy days reducing or eliminating solar for the day…

That said, I recommend the battery be 3 to 5 times the capacity needed for solar dips, and enough solar to fully charge THAT amount of capacity in a 5 hour sun day.

Depends on the importance of reliable operation though