diy solar

diy solar

Solar for two refrigerators and a freezer chest.

"5 hours of direct sunlight" implies you only have 5 hours of exposure per day.

"5 solar hours" is a more accurate way to express the intent.

You modeled the array @ due South and 20° tilt.

If that's the case, than 2kW is more than you need. Assuming 5kWh:

5kWh/4.43h = 1.13kW of solar - in December. All other months will outperform it.

You'll likely still have overcast days that will throw a wrench into things, but that's what a generator is for. With a couple days of battery, you'll likely rarely need the generator.
any particular 48 volt pure sine wave inverter 120volt out, you recommend with at least 3000 watts? Don’t see many choices out there
or what do you think about the hybrid Growatt?
 
I am running a fridge, freezer, mini fridge, microwave, coffee maker, hot water carafe, lots of lights, pellet stove, 2 desktop computers, all the network gear, directv gear, 2 tvs...
Not everything is on at the same time.
My base load on the following system runs from about 200-350 watts overnight to about 800-1000 watts during the day.
This is punctuated by a 5 minute spike to 2400W when making coffee, or to 2800 when microwave runs, etc. I can run both simultaneously because they are on different legs. I have warned my wife NOT to do that though. One is on inverter 1, other on inverter 2. Fridge on 1, freezer on 2. Careful assignment of circuits through the transfer switch to balance loads.

Mpp Solar 3048LV MK x2 in split phase supplying 240 to a Reliant Manual Transfer Switch I installed years ago next to my main panel for grid out generator support. Each fed by 150 amp circuit breaker, 300 amp bus bars, 150 amp class T fuses, pair of batteries. 150ah Lishen DIY, 160ah EVE DIY. Both with 100 amp 16s Overkill JBD.
240 split phase feeds the inverters for utility chargers and passthrough should there be insufficient solar or battery. Basically set up as a 10 circuit ups. But backwards.

12 used 235 watt panels on a good day in mid March charge from 15% SOC to 70% SOC.
Need more solar!

My freezer is an eleven year old Frigidaire, fridge is 9 year old Kenmore. I don't even see the compressor spikes. I put a kill a watt on each for 24 hours during my energy audit and found 2.02kwh for the fridge and 1.84kwh for the freezer. Or vice versa. In a 24 hour period. Normal use.

Hope you find this useful.
Good luck.
 

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I am running a fridge, freezer, mini fridge, microwave, coffee maker, hot water carafe, lots of lights, pellet stove, 2 desktop computers, all the network gear, directv gear, 2 tvs...
Not everything is on at the same time.
My base load on the following system runs from about 200-350 watts overnight to about 800-1000 watts during the day.
This is punctuated by a 5 minute spike to 2400W when making coffee, or to 2800 when microwave runs, etc. I can run both simultaneously because they are on different legs. I have warned my wife NOT to do that though. One is on inverter 1, other on inverter 2. Fridge on 1, freezer on 2. Careful assignment of circuits through the transfer switch to balance loads.

Mpp Solar 3048LV MK x2 in split phase supplying 240 to a Reliant Manual Transfer Switch I installed years ago next to my main panel for grid out generator support. Each fed by 150 amp circuit breaker, 300 amp bus bars, 150 amp class T fuses, pair of batteries. 150ah Lishen DIY, 160ah EVE DIY. Both with 100 amp 16s Overkill JBD.
240 split phase feeds the inverters for utility chargers and passthrough should there be insufficient solar or battery. Basically set up as a 10 circuit ups. But backwards.

12 used 235 watt panels on a good day in mid March charge from 15% SOC to 70% SOC.
Need more solar!

My freezer is an eleven year old Frigidaire, fridge is 9 year old Kenmore. I don't even see the compressor spikes. I put a kill a watt on each for 24 hours during my energy audit and found 2.02kwh for the fridge and 1.84kwh for the freezer. Or vice versa. In a 24 hour period. Normal use.

Hope you find this useful.
Good luck.
Did you have to get those MPP 3048LV-MK from overseas, or is there a US dealer I can order them from?
 
Ok, so I got 4 12volt 200ah 200bms LifePo4 batteries, will connect them in series for 48 volts and will use 10 12 volts 200 watt solar panels, connected in two strings of 5 in series then those two in parallel coming into the 150volt max charger controller, by the panels specs calculations on an online calculator from the explorist.life, I should get about 118 volts and 23.52 amps from the panels into the charge controller, and 48.09 amps coming out of the charge controller to charge the batteries.

What you guys think? I’m I missing something?
 
Batteries really like to be fully charged and balanced before being put into service, especially when connecting in series.

What "150volt max charger controller" do you have or are considering?

I don't see any fuses, wires, breakers etc..
 
Batteries really like to be fully charged and balanced before being put into service, especially when connecting in series.

What "150volt max charger controller" do you have or are considering?

I don't see any fuses, wires, breakers etc..
Using a EPEVER 60A 150V with an MT-50 remote monitoring, I`m charging and balancing the batteries as per the owner`s manual provided with them before putting them into service, I`m using a PV Combiner box (with fuses and a breaker) to connect the solar panels, also fuses or breaker, (haven`t decide yet), and proper sized wiring, (I usually tend to overkill on wire size), so that`s not a problem, specially when I`m doing 48volts and there is no need to go as thick as when doing 12 volts.
I posted a general idea to see if you guys think is an acceptable setup.
 
Using a EPEVER 60A 150V with an MT-50 remote monitoring, I`m charging and balancing the batteries as per the owner`s manual provided with them before putting them into service, I`m using a PV Combiner box (with fuses and a breaker) to connect the solar panels, also fuses or breaker, (haven`t decide yet), and proper sized wiring, (I usually tend to overkill on wire size), so that`s not a problem, specially when I`m doing 48volts and there is no need to go as thick as when doing 12 volts.
I posted a general idea to see if you guys think is an acceptable setup.
Sounds acceptable to me. Cross the "t"s and dot the "i"s.
Browneye has posted a great deal about the Epever controllers if you want to read up on it. My Epever 6415AN manual (page 8) says it can not be programed for LiFePO4 batteries via the MT-50.

I'm using breakers in the combiner box and a fused safety switch, 50' away, right next to the controller.
 
Sounds acceptable to me. Cross the "t"s and dot the "i"s.
Browneye has posted a great deal about the Epever controllers if you want to read up on it. My Epever 6415AN manual (page 8) says it can not be programed for LiFePO4 batteries via the MT-50.

I'm using breakers in the combiner box and a fused safety switch, 50' away, right next to the controller.
It`s amazing how difficult is to find a Charger controller that does LifePo4 batteries, as common as this batteries are. However, there are a few videos on YouTube on how to do it with the MT-50.
Haven`t plugged mine in, but in the description of the item in Amazon it says it supports LifePo4 batteries, perhaps they mean it has to be done with the proper cable and a Laptop?
 
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It`s amazing how difficult is to find a Charger controller that does LifePo4 batteries, as common as this batteries are. However, there are a few videos on YouTube on how to do it with the MT-50.
Haven`t plugged mine in, but in the description of the item in Amazon it says it supports LifePo4 batteries, perhaps they mean it has to be done with the proper cable and a Laptop?
Yep, it needs the cable and a laptop to program LiFePO4 settings. The default charge settings are not appropriate for your batteries. You may be able to monitor with the MT-50 but they say you cannot program for LiFePO4.
Do you have a resistor to precharge the capacitors in your inverter? Will recommends a 25W 30 or 50 Ohm resistor in his video.


Here is the address to controllers, where you can find the manual.
epever.com/products/?yith_wcan=1&product_cat=charge-controller
Find the software at this address.
epever.com/support/softwares/
 
Yep, it needs the cable and a laptop to program LiFePO4 settings. The default charge settings are not appropriate for your batteries. You may be able to monitor with the MT-50 but they say you cannot program for LiFePO4.
Do you have a resistor to precharge the capacitors in your inverter? Will recommends a 25W 30 or 50 Ohm resistor in his video.


Here is the address to controllers, where you can find the manual.
epever.com/products/?yith_wcan=1&product_cat=charge-controller
Find the software at this address.
epever.com/support/softwares/
Yes, I have a 25W 30 Ohm resistor, thanks, I read somewhere that grounding the negative post of the battery bank to earth ground is beneficial, since it will help protect the BMS boards in te LifePo4 batteries, what do you think about that?
 
Yes, I have a 25W 30 Ohm resistor, thanks, I read somewhere that grounding the negative post of the battery bank to earth ground is beneficial, since it will help protect the BMS boards in te LifePo4 batteries, what do you think about that?
I'm into short answers tonight.
Answer: ?

That's my "Saturday Night Live" answer.
What timselectric said is much more realistic, logical and practical.
 
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