yeah I barely fit through that entrance on the top, and winding the heat exchanger coil in there by myself in the daytime was bad enough.Looks good fair play I was surprised when you said you were in the tank though, you look more marine than radio operator.
yeah the hondas are whats known as K trucks, they have a 660 cc or smaller displacement engine. the one you see in the photos is the next size up, body is roughly twice the size of the hondas, and the engine is limited to 2000 cc displacement fortunately the coils are pre-bent coils , just had to "wind" the coils into the tank and then attach them to my home made support rack that I had to assemble inside the tank. the last 10 coils were a regular PITA. and to be honest the last four are just kind of hanging in place as I could not rotate anything anymore to reach the back supports.Someone not too far from me has one of those little Honda trucks kinda fun. He probably works for Honda if I had to guess (major employer here).
I can't imagine winding that tubing by hand in there.
it is all location dependent (safety rules), and size of structure, (tax rules).How's Japanese legislation concerning construction of utilities such as the small outside room and other builds of the likes? Do you apply for a permit for example? Sadly here in Greece, you can't even build a small barbeque or a pergola without a (painful procedure) permit.
Great work so far!
Riello Japan was like kerosene only and no reply yet back from the EU contact me form.@Daddy Tanuki Did you have any luck speaking to riello in the end?
Sadly no the waste oil he's using is much thicker so needs to be preheated and then pressurised via pre heated compressed air atleast in a jet burner. Float style or drip vapor chamber is a much easier option but it's also kinda janky especially when considering hes using it in a residential setting.It is just a generic oil burner. Fire it up and set air ratio.
been looking at these and at hydrualic gear pumps to force the used motor oil through media elements. currently I have 200 gallons of waste oil in 50 gallon drums. They have been sitting unmolested for about 6 weeks now to allow the heavier contaminants to settle to the bottom. plan is to pump out top 80 percent into a clean tank and then collect the remaining 20% into one tank and let it settle again. repeat ad naseum and then either centrifuge or filter. (or both).Time to build an oil spinner
Love your ideas. I have heated my home with a Thermoflo oil furnace since the 1980's.
I want to upgrade to the bowl type you have pics of. I currently have what I call the acorn style centrifuge. I am limited to 55 gallons of filtering at a time. It requires a pump to be running full time to operate. I have been using WMO, ATF and other "oils". You can run any of them. I have an old drip style Lanair for the garage. it has a 100 micron steel mesh filter. However it has so much soot etc it requires daily cleaning if run all day. Cleaner the oil, less down time for cleaning
My sons friend and I have been running WMO and about 10% RUG (regular unleaded gasoline) depends on the oil I get. We both have old 7.3l turbodiesel Mechanical injection. He is more detailed oriented. He got a viscosity tester (specific gravity). I just pour it and "good enough" or I mix some more RUG in. If it's too thick I have harder starts, a little smoke til she's warm and runs a little warm(due to increased BTU's vs diesel).
If you want to automate your furnace, you will want to centrifuge (polish your fuel) and have a more consistent viscosity. Using heat and a centrifuge can remove all water and antifreeze or any condensation, or emulsified oils. Particulate down to 1-2 microns will be removed using about 180 degree Fahrenheit and a 1-2 gallon flow rate... in a good bowl centrifuge. Some use settling to reduce down time/cleaning, some just clean the bowl more.... Fuel consistency will make your life easier....
In my truck, sometimes if I don't have enough fuel centrifuged I just use a sock filter(10 micron, stock fuel filter is 10 micron, if I have time, motivation, I rerun through a 5 micron filter). Ambient temperature greatly affect the flow rate through a gravity filter and how hard the pump works on a pressure filter. I use a 10 micron filter. Over 15k miles and truck actually runs quieter on synthetic 5w-20....I change trucks fuel filter every oil change. Way cheaper than buying diesel
House furnace. You are correct on the little pumps, my Beckett AFG oilgun (burner) struggles if I don't thin and have the viscosity right... A local truck(commercial truck) salvage yard burned any oil they took out of a semi. They kept extra jet/nozzles on hand. If it failed(usually a clogged nozzle. They pulled the oilgun. new filter, new nozzle. Back in service 45 minutes tops... Many people use pressurized air and siphon guns to avoid clogged nozzles....
I too plan on using more centrifuged WMO thinned with RUG as a home heating oil. I am approaching the age where firewood, even the free firewood or the wood I am paid to remove. Is becoming more of a chore. Facing my second knee replacement....
Outdoor wood boilers are somewhat common in my state. Guys just make a drip burner in them. Adjusting flow rate to get desired BTU/kW desired. Also have seen a few wood stoves with a drip burner just set in them. Some guys wrap coils around the stove, the pipe, weld water jacket on them, etc. Many variations.
I look forward to seeing your results. How expensive is gasoline ? or another thinning agent ? Are lighter oils available ? Used to go through 5-600 gallons of fuel oil (diesel) every winter. Now with firewood and WMO mixed in with the #2 fuel oil. In door tank. I am under 50 gallons of purchased oil. Usually due to vacations or not being home to fill the wood stove...
Last thought. The Lanair waste oil heater is heavy cast iron. The Thermoflo has a cast iron heat exchanger with a ceramic insert to take the initial blast/flame pattern from the oil gun....
7.3 IDI? that and the 6.9 are great engines. I have the 7.3 with the HEUI injector system.My sons friend and I have been running WMO and about 10% RUG (regular unleaded gasoline) depends on the oil I get. We both have old 7.3l turbodiesel Mechanical injection. He is more detailed oriented. He got a viscosity tester (specific gravity). I just pour it and "good enough" or I mix some more RUG in. If it's too thick I have harder starts, a little smoke til she's warm and runs a little warm(due to increased BTU's vs diesel).
yeah I am looking at a centrifugal unit made in florida its about 3k + shipping. but its a requirement if I want to run waste oil.If you want to automate your furnace, you will want to centrifuge (polish your fuel) and have a more consistent viscosity. Using heat and a centrifuge can remove all water and antifreeze or any condensation, or emulsified oils. Particulate down to 1-2 microns will be removed using about 180 degree Fahrenheit and a 1-2 gallon flow rate... in a good bowl centrifuge. Some use settling to reduce down time/cleaning, some just clean the bowl more.... Fuel consistency will make your life easier....
this is what I am looking at as well. the guy in the states i have been chatting with specialize's in theseHouse furnace. You are correct on the little pumps, my Beckett AFG oilgun (burner) struggles if I don't thin and have the viscosity right... A local truck(commercial truck) salvage yard burned any oil they took out of a semi. They kept extra jet/nozzles on hand. If it failed(usually a clogged nozzle. They pulled the oilgun. new filter, new nozzle. Back in service 45 minutes tops... Many people use pressurized air and siphon guns to avoid clogged nozzles....
I feel your pain, i just spent about 65k having my cabins exterior ripped off and new insulation double pain glass and siding installed to lower the amount of firewood I need, and would like to eventually do away with firewood other than as an aesthetic thing or emergency heat.I too plan on using more centrifuged WMO thinned with RUG as a home heating oil. I am approaching the age where firewood, even the free firewood or the wood I am paid to remove. Is becoming more of a chore. Facing my second knee replacement....
gasoline is currently 4.81/gal, kerosene is 3.16/gal and diesel is 3.85/gal these are the cheapest prices currently. prices vary by season and yen to dollar rate.I look forward to seeing your results. How expensive is gasoline ? or another thinning agent ?
Yes 7.3l is daily in the summer. Also have 6.9l with a Banks aftermarket turbo. Fuel is turned up. The ol c6 trans doesn't go very fast, but she'll pull your house off the foundation. Sh rolls coal at 65 MPH no matter what I do, but mainly tow local with it. Loves WMO....7.3 IDI? that and the 6.9 are great engines. I have the 7.3 with the HEUI injector system.
yeah I am looking at a centrifugal unit made in florida its about 3k + shipping. but its a requirement if I want to run waste oil.
this is what I am looking at as well. the guy in the states i have been chatting with specialize's in these
I feel your pain, i just spent about 65k having my cabins exterior ripped off and new insulation double pain glass and siding installed to lower the amount of firewood I need, and would like to eventually do away with firewood other than as an aesthetic thing or emergency heat.
gasoline is currently 4.81/gal, kerosene is 3.16/gal and diesel is 3.85/gal these are the cheapest prices currently. prices vary by season and yen to dollar rate.
used motor oil is free, either from my own oil changes or from various friends who run repair shops. however it will take about 5 years of part time use to pay off the centrifuge and the boiler construction, that or maybe a year of full time.
This is in comparison to kerosene prices and usage in the past.