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Superstrut on flat concrete roof

Papote

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Nov 28, 2019
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I have a flat concrete roof and live at about 18 North latitude. It doesn't snow where I live. Some calculators say that my angle should be at around 16 degrees. I was thinking of getting some superstrut and painting them with grey oxide primer and some paint. The panels I currently have meassure 41" x 27".
How can accomplish a proper 16 degree tilt with a superstrut?
 
Maybe this will help you out -- you know that A = 16 and depending on number of panels c would be a multiple of either 27 or 41 depending on how you are mounting them.
 
Maybe this will help you out -- you know that A = 16 and depending on number of panels c would be a multiple of either 27 or 41 depending on how you are mounting them.

Ok. So according to that, since I'll mount them along the longest side to save more space c would be 41 making my formula, 41×sin(16). Which equals about 11.3 inches tall or a from the video example. That sound right?

If so, using my superstrut idea, what type of bar can I use to raise it 11.3 inches and how can I attach it together? Originally, I was thinking of attaching one of the superstruts to the roof directly to the pivot point, but it won't be straight.
 
Yes - 11.3 sounds right!

I'm sure there are all kinds of ways of connecting uni/super/struts but having never done it I don't have any more advise really (I've done cheapo ground mounts with lumber & hinges....)
 
I am a fan of super/uni/channel strut, but the fittings can be pricey. I can sometimes find deals on the fittings on ebay.

Ok. Hinged brackets. I'll look into that. What would you recommend I use on the right angle 11.3" long side to attach? Another unistrut?
 
Ok. Hinged brackets. I'll look into that. What would you recommend I use on the right angle 11.3" long side to attach? Another unistrut?
I thought you were doing all 3 sides out of channel-strut, but yes, you could use channel strut. Between the triangles, you can use more strut to run stringers for mounting your panels. You might also want to consider angling a bar (More strut?) from the base of one riser to the top of the riser on the next triangle over. This would give the structure a lot more lateral strength.

1577430841501.png
Before you start buying stuff, make sure you have figured out how you will clamp onto your panels.

Also, you could look into using 2x4s for the riser and the leaning part. It might be a little cheaper.

Finally..... are you concerned about meeting code? My guess is using channel strut would be plenty strong, but it might not meet code requirements because it is not a 'certified' solution.

You may want to investigate what commercial mount systems are available. I have never used them so I don't know if they are pricey or not but they would more likely meet code and might be easier to set up.
 
I just did some googling on ground mount solar racking systems and there are a lot out there, some of them are fairly low cost compared to what it would cost to build out of channel-strut.

Here is the first one I found:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Adjustable-Solar-Panel-Brackets/dp/B07CSKFWK7/ref=asc_df_B07CSKFWK7
This looks a little light weight, but depending on the situation it might be perfectly adequate.

Definitely research your options before you buy. There may be some excellent solutions that are lower cost than using channel-strut.
 
I just did some googling on ground mount solar racking systems and there are a lot out there, some of them are fairly low cost compared to what it would cost to build out of channel-strut.

Here is the first one I found:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Adjustable-Solar-Panel-Brackets/dp/B07CSKFWK7/ref=asc_df_B07CSKFWK7
This looks a little light weight, but depending on the situation it might be perfectly adequate.

Definitely research your options before you buy. There may be some excellent solutions that are lower cost than using channel-strut.

Had that in my cart for a while, but they are too short, unless I mount horizontally and would take up more space.

Thanks though.
 
I thought you were doing all 3 sides out of channel-strut, but yes, you could use channel strut. Between the triangles, you can use more strut to run stringers for mounting your panels. You might also want to consider angling a bar (More strut?) from the base of one riser to the top of the riser on the next triangle over. This would give the structure a lot more lateral strength.

View attachment 4040
Before you start buying stuff, make sure you have figured out how you will clamp onto your panels.

Also, you could look into using 2x4s for the riser and the leaning part. It might be a little cheaper.

Finally..... are you concerned about meeting code? My guess is using channel strut would be plenty strong, but it might not meet code requirements because it is not a 'certified' solution.

You may want to investigate what commercial mount systems are available. I have never used them so I don't know if they are pricey or not but they would more likely meet code and might be easier to set up.

Not a fan of using wood, although I guess I could use treated lumber.

Don't care about codes. It's not getting certified at all ever, but must be able to withstand hurricane Force winds. So I'll probably tie them up with a coated metal wire, like I did with my Solar Water Heater and survived Hurricane Maria dead on.
 
Anybody know what uni-strut is called in Canada?

I don't know, but try these variants:
  • Channel strut
  • Strut Channel
  • Superstrut
  • Unistrut
  • Kindorf
They are all the same thing. I think the generic name is channel strut and the others are brand names.

Here in the states, it is sold in the electrical department at the warehouse hardware stores but their selection of fittings is pretty limited. I end up ordering the fittings on-line. I imagine an electric supply house would carry it or could order it for you.
 
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