System Design Check
- Thread starter Gockleyd
- Start date
Yellowtown
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- Jan 27, 2020
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- 10
Hi, why use one of the solar controllers to charge the starter battery?
and from what I see you are using you’re Orion TR to charge the house bank when the generator kick in?
or are you using the starter battery for more then just start?
my recommendation is too use both solar chargers for the lithium!
and from what I see you are using you’re Orion TR to charge the house bank when the generator kick in?
or are you using the starter battery for more then just start?
my recommendation is too use both solar chargers for the lithium!
@Yellowtown The reason for having the solar flowing into Starter Battery is because AGM likes to be floated for long term battery health, and with the Orion TR I believe I will be able to flow that extra charge to the house battery. I am only using the start battery for starting and to buffer the output of the alternator.
@Whinny I am planning to use this https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-5196-Terminal-Fuse-Block-for-3-Circuits_p_7754.html terminal fuse block right next to the battery. That is why the multiplus is fused at that end as well. Also since it is an inverter and charger and you will have current flowing in both directions I thought you always needed to fuse near your current source? Does that make sense? Making sure I have the fusing set up correctly is the thing I am most nervous about.
@Whinny I am planning to use this https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-5196-Terminal-Fuse-Block-for-3-Circuits_p_7754.html terminal fuse block right next to the battery. That is why the multiplus is fused at that end as well. Also since it is an inverter and charger and you will have current flowing in both directions I thought you always needed to fuse near your current source? Does that make sense? Making sure I have the fusing set up correctly is the thing I am most nervous about.
Whinny
Solar Enthusiast
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- Dec 24, 2020
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- 399
Fuse block looks really nice, but I see 4 fuses required per battery. For the best protection the positive lead from the batteries should go first into a class T fuse, then to your 4 position MRBF block. There is lots of talk abut that....
diysolarforum.com
The charger is a current limited device-it can't overtax the 2/0 cable you are using and would never blow the 300a fuse you have.......I'm really sure (99 1/2%) it's not required.
Is a 150a fuse enough for your starter? That is the only circuit you are allowed to leave unfused.
Is your combine switch combining batteries or loads? I think the latest on that is to not combine a dead battery to a good one but to join your house loads to the starter circuit so you can isolate the dead battery.
I'm surprised no one else has chimed in-there is lots of members smarter than me for boat stuff....
LiFePO4 prismatic cell short circuit current and main circuit protection
I am building a LiFePO4 battery bank for my vehicle using 8x EVE 105Ah cells in a 2p4s configuration (12V, 210Ah). While not an EE, I am fairly comfortable with circuit design and protection. My question pertains to main circuit protection, specifically short circuit protection. I see a lot of...
diysolarforum.com
Is a 150a fuse enough for your starter? That is the only circuit you are allowed to leave unfused.
Is your combine switch combining batteries or loads? I think the latest on that is to not combine a dead battery to a good one but to join your house loads to the starter circuit so you can isolate the dead battery.
I'm surprised no one else has chimed in-there is lots of members smarter than me for boat stuff....
That thread was an interesting read, I'll plan to include a Class T for the House Bank after that read. Now I just need to figure out how to size it...
What you are saying makes sense about the charger being a current limited device, I guess that also applies to the MPPT's and the DC to DC charger(This aligns with the diagram the Victron publishes for fusing the Orion). I guess I will be moving all of my fusing next to the battery.
What you are saying makes sense about the charger being a current limited device, I guess that also applies to the MPPT's and the DC to DC charger(This aligns with the diagram the Victron publishes for fusing the Orion). I guess I will be moving all of my fusing next to the battery.
This is basically what I am planning to do. One issue that I can't seem to wrap my head around is won't the charging battery be constantly cycling? Lets say that you have the DC-DC charger cut in at 13.6 volts and out at 13.1 volts and 8 amps coming in from the start battery solar (just to pick some numbers). I would think that the start battery might get unacceptable wear by constantly cycling between those voltages.
By the way, beautiful drawing. What did you use to do this?
By the way, beautiful drawing. What did you use to do this?
That is a good question regarding the DC-DC charger, I'm not sure if that kind of short cycling is really a problem with a Lead Acid Starting Battery? Ideally I would put all the charge sources into the house bank and then just charge the start battery from that, however I can't do without and alternator upgrade.
I used diagrams.net it integrates with google drive and can import the victron assets I found here https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/7837/visio-stencils-for-victron-products.html
I used diagrams.net it integrates with google drive and can import the victron assets I found here https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/7837/visio-stencils-for-victron-products.html
My thought - I would put a breaker just before the mppt’s (between solar panels and mppt). That way you can turn the sun off for maintenance and testing.
Also with all your Victron stuff get a GX device (Cerbo or CCGX) to put all that info on power flows in one place.
Also with all your Victron stuff get a GX device (Cerbo or CCGX) to put all that info on power flows in one place.
The only reason to put a breaker between the panel and the MPPT is for a disconnect? Is there any reason not to just use a battery switch?
I might get a GX but I plan to get started with a raspberry Pi they have an open source version of the GX firmware that can be loaded on a Pi
I might get a GX but I plan to get started with a raspberry Pi they have an open source version of the GX firmware that can be loaded on a Pi
Yes both those accomplish the what needs done - just fine. The one thing to look for on the Pi - can you control the Multiplus on the Pi? (I just don’t know - I have the CCGX in my MotorHome). You will need to switch the state - on/off/charger only & set the amps in from shore power/generator.
OceanStateTuning
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- Jan 23, 2021
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What did you use to make this diagram?
I used diagrams.net it integrates with google drive and can import the victron assets I found here https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/7837/visio-stencils-for-victron-products.html
What did you use to draw this diagram? I’m about to start laying mine out and it’d be great to have something other than ink pen on pad.
I used diagrams.net it integrates with google drive and can import the victron assets I found here https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/7837/visio-stencils-for-victron-products.html
I've been looking for a diagram like this for a while - thank you. On a cruising boat, running the engine should be kept to as short as possible, so ... a couple of questions: 1/ Why not use a 200A alternator with a Balmar external regulator to speed things up? Temp sensor on the alternator can slow charge if needed and load can be reduced for operation while idling 2/ It seems that the Orion 12/12-18 is way too small to jam the alternator amps back into the Li battery? 3/ Why use three manual battery shut off switches when you could use an automatic charge control relay that would let your AGM come up to voltage on the alternator and then power tot he LI would be connected automatically for that charging? You would then run the output from the alt to the ACR and then it would feed the to the two batteries, one directly and then other through the Orion?
