byteharmony
Sunny side up please.
Question: Is there any reason this is a bad idea?
Inspired by this guys recycled AC Panel:
Does anyone have any experience with limiting charge current and discharge current by wire gauge and length?
An example of this is using 14 AWG wire to directly connect two different LIFEPO4 batteries in parallel that are far apart.
For example:
14 awg THHN
53v max charged battery (Trophy Battery)
100 foot distance
15 AMPS max breaker
9.33 volt drop on breaker flip
43.67 volts at discharged battery
15 amps starts flowing and it drops to 0 once they are top balanced.
The magic is, should I lose power or choose to go off grid for time of use cost savings, or need power capacity beyond my 100 AMP grid limit, the flow would go backwards and the far away battery would supply current to the primary battery increasing it's capacity, then switch back once the load drops to charging. No extra cost for fancy electronics to do this, just distance and physics.
Drop the distance to 30 feet and the max voltage drop is only 2.8v meaning i couldn't connect the batteries until the remote battery was at least 50.2 volts and even then their is an added risk of over drawing if I don't limit my consumption and charge with the sol ark programming. Still the breaker is a backup protection.
Why do this?
Where my Sol Ark will be it's easy to fit 1 Trophy rack battery and my DIY 18650 power wall.
However my planned 48v lawn tractor and 48v pontoon boat will also have 48v Trophies in them in the summer. I got to thinking, instead of using 48v AC 120v chargers, I'd just run a longer 48v feed to them. With this approach I can also connect my 120V 2500 Watt gas generator stored by my tractor up to a 48v charger and keep my whole house running in the vent of a power outage and my power consumption out draws my capacity. I wouldn't have to move or wire up much of anything.
In the fall / winter I can pull the 2 large trophy batteries into the house and place them in my existing 40 U server rack (I know it's weird but I have a lot of servers) and then run a power wire to that rack so that it can feed the primary trophy batter and the space works out for me perfectly. The primary battery can act as a large capacitor to some degree.
Worst case I melt a wire, cause a short and my breaker in the distribution panel at 15 amps trips. Wires are all in 1/2 emt so fire is prevented.
Labels on conduit of course.
Each situation would need smart thinking for battery size, wire size and distance. But it seems smart in theory. Better for all batteries concerned and me.
Inspired by this guys recycled AC Panel:
Does anyone have any experience with limiting charge current and discharge current by wire gauge and length?
An example of this is using 14 AWG wire to directly connect two different LIFEPO4 batteries in parallel that are far apart.
For example:
14 awg THHN
53v max charged battery (Trophy Battery)
100 foot distance
15 AMPS max breaker
9.33 volt drop on breaker flip
43.67 volts at discharged battery
15 amps starts flowing and it drops to 0 once they are top balanced.
The magic is, should I lose power or choose to go off grid for time of use cost savings, or need power capacity beyond my 100 AMP grid limit, the flow would go backwards and the far away battery would supply current to the primary battery increasing it's capacity, then switch back once the load drops to charging. No extra cost for fancy electronics to do this, just distance and physics.
Drop the distance to 30 feet and the max voltage drop is only 2.8v meaning i couldn't connect the batteries until the remote battery was at least 50.2 volts and even then their is an added risk of over drawing if I don't limit my consumption and charge with the sol ark programming. Still the breaker is a backup protection.
Why do this?
Where my Sol Ark will be it's easy to fit 1 Trophy rack battery and my DIY 18650 power wall.
However my planned 48v lawn tractor and 48v pontoon boat will also have 48v Trophies in them in the summer. I got to thinking, instead of using 48v AC 120v chargers, I'd just run a longer 48v feed to them. With this approach I can also connect my 120V 2500 Watt gas generator stored by my tractor up to a 48v charger and keep my whole house running in the vent of a power outage and my power consumption out draws my capacity. I wouldn't have to move or wire up much of anything.
In the fall / winter I can pull the 2 large trophy batteries into the house and place them in my existing 40 U server rack (I know it's weird but I have a lot of servers) and then run a power wire to that rack so that it can feed the primary trophy batter and the space works out for me perfectly. The primary battery can act as a large capacitor to some degree.
Worst case I melt a wire, cause a short and my breaker in the distribution panel at 15 amps trips. Wires are all in 1/2 emt so fire is prevented.
Labels on conduit of course.
Each situation would need smart thinking for battery size, wire size and distance. But it seems smart in theory. Better for all batteries concerned and me.