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Victron 24v 5000w question for 50 amp RV

golfwisconsin

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Aug 7, 2023
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North Port FL
Ok I have been building a system for my RV but still are planning it out and need to know if this is possible or not.
I have been looking at using a 5000w inverter since i dont think 3000w would be enough at certain times of the day while we are off grid, computers, ac, tv, etc. all running at once and then cooking at the same time.

So in the below image i created is something like this possible since they dont have a 5k 2x120 made and only the normal 120v out. Let me know, i am curious. I dont want to do dual so i am looking for options.

1697401731759.png
 
The amperage depends on the wiring.

A 50A RV should have 6awg or thicker.

The issue with shorting L1 to L2 like a 30A to 50A adapter does is you have double current on the neutral, however, you're still limited to 50A total on L1 and L2 combined, and you can't reasonably supply that.

You've effectively limited your power system to 6000W (50A @ 120V). You will need to be conscientious about how you use big loads.
 
Not sure I follow but if you could explain that'd be great.
Yeah I know I'd have to be conscientious about the lowest because it's a 5000 watt inverter and I don't plan ever going over using 5000 Watts at one individual time, what I'm trying to do is power a two leg breaker box with two legs out of a one leg inverter but not have the breakers kick out being below 50 amp. If you can diagram that I'd be interested to see it
 
You can jumper one leg to another in a breaker box, you just won’t be able to have any 240v loads (which you prob wouldn’t in an RV). You’ll just want to label the panel as a 120v panel in case someone else has to work on it.
 
I’d do a single 5k, I ran dual 3k’s on a 43 foot fifth wheel and while it worked, a 5k would have been much simpler. The downside being you won’t effectively be able to run two air conditioners at once, off grid. It’ll work sometimes, but the hotter it gets the inverter will overload.
 
Not sure I follow but if you could explain that'd be great.

You're proposing powering your RV in the same manner as when you plug into 30A power with a 30 to 50A adapter. L1 and L2 are jumpered to L, so you have 120V to each side of the AC panel.

When powered by 120/240V split phase, the only current on the neutral will be the imbalance between the legs, e.g., 20A on L1 and 30A on L2 means you only get 10A on N. In the jumpered config, N is the return for both legs, so 20A on L1 and 30A on L3 would be 50A on the N.

Yeah I know I'd have to be conscientious about the lowest because it's a 5000 watt inverter and I don't plan ever going over using 5000 Watts at one individual time, what I'm trying to do is power a two leg breaker box with two legs out of a one leg inverter but not have the breakers kick out being below 50 amp. If you can diagram that I'd be interested to see it

Unless you're hooked to shore power. The Quattro has a 100A transfer switch, so it will be happy to provide 100A pass through, AND it will also happily provide ANOTHER 42A with power assist. That's a potential of 142A.

Assuming any source you plug into is limited to 50A, you'll be limited to 50A... plus... the 42A of power assist, so 92A.

You could very easily overload your wiring while on shore power. Your first clue will be the smell of burning insulation.

I’d do a single 5k, I ran dual 3k’s on a 43 foot fifth wheel and while it worked, a 5k would have been much simpler. The downside being you won’t effectively be able to run two air conditioners at once, off grid. It’ll work sometimes, but the hotter it gets the inverter will overload.

Disagree with this as an absolute. My single 5kVA Quattro can power both A/C pretty easily. I've run both for several hours in upper 90°s. That's a total of about 3000W continuous.
 
You're proposing powering your RV in the same manner as when you plug into 30A power with a 30 to 50A adapter. L1 and L2 are jumpered to L, so you have 120V to each side of the AC panel.

When powered by 120/240V split phase, the only current on the neutral will be the imbalance between the legs, e.g., 20A on L1 and 30A on L2 means you only get 10A on N. In the jumpered config, N is the return for both legs, so 20A on L1 and 30A on L3 would be 50A on the N.



Unless you're hooked to shore power. The Quattro has a 100A transfer switch, so it will be happy to provide 100A pass through, AND it will also happily provide ANOTHER 42A with power assist. That's a potential of 142A.

Assuming any source you plug into is limited to 50A, you'll be limited to 50A... plus... the 42A of power assist, so 92A.

You could very easily overload your wiring while on shore power. Your first clue will be the smell of burning insulation.



Disagree with this as an absolute. My single 5kVA Quattro can power both A/C pretty easily. I've run both for several hours in upper 90°s. That's a total of about 3000W continuous.
I should clarify, I don’t mean it as an absolute, I’m just talking from experience in a large, ultra well equipped RV, and I suppose with the X factor of a wife.

Ours had dual 15k btu air conditioners, full size residential fridge, four TV’s, an electric fireplace we never used, big microwave etc.

We would often see draw reaching 3,800w from the two AC units, especially as the temps would rise. This didn’t leave much headroom for anything else. You get the wrong timing of the fridge kicking on, or the wife throwing something in the microwave and boom, you’re in overload.

This was most annoying when away from the RV, dogs inside, AC blaring and coming back to it in overload for some reason. I do however take responsibility for it being set up in split phase rather than parallel, which would have been a much more effective setup allowing the two inverters to share the load rather than splitting the panel.

I think if I were to do a large RV again I’d go with a Victron 10k, or run the numbers and see if one of the smaller 8k/12k Sol-Arks would end up being cheaper. The Victron stuff is rock solid, just ends up expensive when you get it all pieced together.

Lots of options out there, many of which are great. Heck, aside from high idle draw I’d think an older MPP LV6548 would be an excellent fit.

OP, if you’re willing to go without a warranty, and can accept the idle draw, this is a CRAZY good deal for your setup. Could grab two and be well ahead price wise. Just a thought:

 
I’d do a single 5k, I ran dual 3k’s on a 43 foot fifth wheel and while it worked, a 5k would have been much simpler. The downside being you won’t effectively be able to run two air conditioners at once, off grid. It’ll work sometimes, but the hotter it gets the inverter will overload.

Ok thats cool to hear. Curious how you ran the AC in from shore/gen. Did you using a ATS or a Manual switch? As well as the AC out how did you route it to the box and jump it? did you use a junction box, manual switch, ATS? what was your AC out setting per the amperage?

This is all hypothetical if you were to use the 5k not the dual 3.
 
When I was installing my 5000W Quattro inverter I had the same dilemma. Instead of connecting everything on together and limiting my total input to 50A I decided to split the panel and move the non-critical loads to the other input phase.

To do so I split my neutral bar in the RV panel (cut using a dremel tool) and wired the input as per the image attached. I moved most of the circuits to the inverter side of the panel, leaving only 1 AC unit, the water heater, and the electric fireplace on the other. I also verified that the neutral conductor for each branch circuit was connected to the proper neutral bar.

For wiring I ran the main 50A input cable (6/3 + ground) directly to the inverter. I ran 5x #6 (red, black, white, white, green) from the inverter to the RV panel in ENT (non-metallic conduit). At the inverter I wire-nutted the whites and reds together as per the image below. Alternatively you could use a large J-box or gutter below the inverter if you don't want to make those two connections inside it.

-John

panel_wiring.jpg
 
When I was installing my 5000W Quattro inverter I had the same dilemma. Instead of connecting everything on together and limiting my total input to 50A I decided to split the panel and move the non-critical loads to the other input phase.

To do so I split my neutral bar in the RV panel (cut using a dremel tool) and wired the input as per the image attached. I moved most of the circuits to the inverter side of the panel, leaving only 1 AC unit, the water heater, and the electric fireplace on the other. I also verified that the neutral conductor for each branch circuit was connected to the proper neutral bar.

For wiring I ran the main 50A input cable (6/3 + ground) directly to the inverter. I ran 5x #6 (red, black, white, white, green) from the inverter to the RV panel in ENT (non-metallic conduit). At the inverter I wire-nutted the whites and reds together as per the image below. Alternatively you could use a large J-box or gutter below the inverter if you don't want to make those two connections inside it.

-John

View attachment 172531
Ok thats a good plan but that would not help me. this setup would require shore power to run anything on the non critical load. i am looking to run anything at anytime. as long as its below 5000w total and amperage on each side.
 
Ok thats a good plan but that would not help me. this setup would require shore power to run anything on the non critical load. i am looking to run anything at anytime. as long as its below 5000w total and amperage on each side.

Your original plan will work fine. If you want to easy-button the load management, disable powerassist. That way you're limited to what one leg of the 50A shore power can supply.

Again, any time you are hooked to 30A shore power, you're in your proposed configuration except you're obviously limited to 30A due to shore power.

1697472251239.png

L is shorted to L1 and L2 providing 120V to each leg.

On your shore connection, you'll need to ensure you only connect L1 to the inverter L on AC in. L2 must be left disconnected.
 
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