diy solar

diy solar

Weird first Project. Unusual offgrid

WoodsieLord

New Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2019
Messages
145
Location
Buenos Aires, Argentina (230V monophasic, 50Hz)
Hello, my name is Agustin. I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina. I'm in the 30-40 y/o range, I work in IT, and I have a thing for solar energy since I asked my father about it when I was a kid.

I've been reading the forum a bit (after watching quite a bunch of Will's clips on youtube) so I think it's time to introduce my idea/Project so I might be able to get help.
I hope you can bear with me:
- I don't speak (write?) english very well. Please ignore my silly mistakes (or even better: Mark them for me ?)
- I live in a 3rd world country with LIMITED access to technology (a renogen 2.4kva 24V MPPT all in one is around 3 standard salaries. Anual Inflation is currently around 53,5%).
- I'm a bit crazy. I live in a 9th floor and I have more plants that I can account for. Now, my solar project is only possible because the roof is just above me (mine is last floor).
- Due to costs and product availability limitations, I might not use standard solutions. This might seems that I complicate things unnecesarily.

A summary of my project, including questions:
1. How the project came to be.
2. What I have. Sizing?.
3. Current parts. With pictures!. Sizing?!
4. Strategy and factibility.




1. I had my first Uninterruptible Power Supply when I was 14. My father bought it second handed. It was a 220v 1kva simple (interactive, not online), worked at 24V so I used it with two cheapo 12V car batteries bought at the super market. The house had two circuits, one for the lower floor and another for the upper one. My room (along with the computers) where in the upper floor. Just a year later, I connected the UPS directly to the circuit (I added an interruptor to be safe). Those nights when the grid went down and I could still play online with my 256kbps ADSL, go to the toilet and the lights kept working... I felt like a demigod of technological sorts.

Fast forward to 2017, and many battery replacements later, that very same UPS died. By that time, I already had experienced at work how superior the online UPS were, and I KNEW I wanted to have one of those. So I got my hands on an Emerson Liebert GXT2-2000VA and realized my gaming setup with the 55 inch display at full throttle showed that the UPS was below 50% capacity. So I got greedy...





2. Since the UPS (2000VA, 1400W. 48V DC voltage) had juice to spare, I started wondering if it could handle my home lights whole. And it did. And still, it never exceeded the 50% load. I'm in awe even now. (Small home, all LED lights).

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To fulfill this, I moved the UPS to another location, I ran wires to separate some plugs so that my air conditioner, hair dryer, all kitchen appliances and some spare plugs for the vaccum cleaner go stright to the grid. At this point, I was sure I wanted to try solar. From my point of view at that time, I felt that the hard part was already done. It was a matter of how to provide the battery bank with power, other than the mains power supply... from the UPS perspective, it would experience the longest power outage EVER.
(At this point I had already read a lot about solar on the internet, started querying sellers and ended up purchasing the Solar panels. Batteries came later on.)
So, once I had the circuit running stable for some time, I started gathering data from my power consumption. For this, I installed a mains power metter I had lying around and an IP camera that took pics at 1 hour intervals for a few days. I used a spreadsheet to get some averages and graphs for better understanding.
I ran this analysis many times. According to my latest test, this were my daily averages on a 5 days run:
- power consumption was 3,78 Kwh.
- Peak (1 hour interval) was 540wh.
- Average consumption (interval) was 160wh, with 120wh standard deviation.
screenshot.5014.jpgscreenshot.5015.jpg


Please note that the power meter is placed at the output of the UPS. This means that the inverter efficiency is ignored. You might also wonder, why my minimum power consumption never goes below 0,1 Kwh. Even when I'm not at home. Okay, the culprits might be my home server, PoE Switch (and external IP camera), a raspberry pi, and a cisco 1941 router (a total overkill for home use, I know, I got it just ...because!).
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My objective, at this time, would be to lower my energy bill. This means, I won't hesitate to switch back to the grid if weather won't cooperate. But my goal is to make this circuit independant from the grid.
So, If my daily power consumption is ~3,8kwh/day I need a battery bank that can provide those ~3,8kwh without degrading. The battery chemistries available in my country are: Lead Acid. Done. Or else you can use the same money printer to pay the bill and you save 100% without investing in solar panels.
For those of us who don't have a money printing machine (and thus, have to get up early, have a job and such) the matter is fairly simple: WHICH lead acid battery to get.
Anyway, I'll get into that shortly. For now, lets agree that the battery bank must be Lead acid and I musn't go past 50% discharge (else, it degrades awfully faster, right?) This means my battery bank should be ~3,8kwh x2 = 7,6 kwh.

But, is my consumption ~3,8kwh/day ? Well no, right?. Theory dictates that it shall be greater due to losses (in wiring, the inverter, etc). I don't know my inverters efficiency and I have no way to calculate my own approximation: If I check the UPS AC input, I will be mettering the power supply (which won't be used once I install the panels). I might test it anyway to have a worst case scenario.






3. I tried to get the greatest quality panels and batteries I could afford. So I bought four 24V 340W monocrystaline panels (although they're made in china) and four Alphacell ("gel 165 gxl". Sticker says "AGM") 12V 110A (made in the united States). Even with extreme lousy calculations, I already know I'm (at least) two panels and 50Ah storage short.
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I wanted to get an MPPT charge controller but they were extremely expensive, so I went with a PWM. It will have to do for now. The charge controller model is "KT4840" and as you may infer it is rated at 48V and 40A.
1c37023c-86dd-4131-a69a-d68de6321790.jpgca5fe6d0-3bad-4a14-a561-e064f9bc03d2.jpg


So..., time to show You my maths.
I live in Buenos Aires and according to an argentinian well trusted solar chart (Grossi-Gallegos): per horizontal square meter we get between 6,5 Kwh/day (summer, sun is in a ~14º inclination) and 2 Kwh/day (winter, sun is in a ~54º inclination). Panels must face north, and if aligned at 54º against the horizon 3,6 Kwh/day can be squeezed in winter. Since I haven't done any mounting yet, and my conditions are rather ...unsafe/adverse (10th floor, no railings, leightwight/mild winds) I'm not sure if I will be using the recommended inclination.

A. Winter without inclination:
Since my Panels are rated at 340W (when sun hits a square meter with 1000W), and the chart says that I will be getting 2000W per square meter, the best I could expect would be 340W x2 from each of the four panels. So, 340W x2 x4 =~ 2720Wh per sunny day. (At 48V those mean 56A, right?). So 2720Wh per day is way less than what I'm currently using. Yikes! Going backwards, if I require 3,8kwh per day, while using 340W panels in winter => [3800wh/(340wh · 2)]= 5,58 panels (hence, six panels). But this last number is missing all the losses ahead.

B. Winter with inclination:
instead of getting 2000W per square meter, I would get 3600W. So...
340W x3,6 x4 =~ 4896W per day. The difference seems to be really worth it. If this is correct, my four panels MIGHT be able to handle my current calculated consumption if the losses are not greater.

C. Best case scenario, at summer:
340W x6,5 x4 =~ 8840W. Very nice indeed. I have plans to harness this excess power. But that's for another topic.

Recap:
A. Winter, no inclination. Panels produce ~2700Wh per day.
B. Winter, 54º inclination. Panels produce ~4850Wh per day.
C. Summer, no inclination. Panels produce ~8800Wh per day.

According to wills video about losses calculation:
- using proper wiring I should be safe to assume ~2% loss per wiring segment.
- ~30% loss due to Pulse wide modulation technology.
- ~5% loss due to Lead Acid technology in case my batteries are GOOD.. 20% if they're not (I hope I have chosen wisely)
- ~10% loss assuming my Emerson UPS features a top quality inverter (I might be biased. I've seen greater efficiency in bigger models but I could not find the exact one on mine). So, all in all, my efficiency will be ranging from 48% to 57%. ( 1 * 0.98 * 0.7 * 0.98 * 0.8 * 0.9 ) and ( 1 * 0.98 * 0.7 * 0.98 * 0.95 * 0.9 ) respectively. Right? I hope my batteries are decent.

A. 2700Wh ~> 1540Wh. Too short. Useless I think.
B. 4850Wh ~> 2760Wh. Maybe use solar during day and switch to grid on afternoons?
C. 8800Wh ~> 5010Wh. This seems it would actually work.

Are my calculations more or less accurate? Any fatal flaws or mistakes I should know of?
If I switch my math around, I know I require ~ 3.8Kwh per day. Lets say 4Kwh. So my panels should produce 4Kwh/0.57 ~> 7Kwh now "featuring" losses.

So..
A' (winter, no inclination): 7Kwh/(340W * 2) => 10.29 ~ 11 ELEVEN panels. They won't even fit in my roof.
B' 7Kwh/(340W * 3.6) => 5.71 ~ 6 SIX panels. I'm willing to add two more. They would fit.
C' 7Kwh/(340W * 6.5) => 3.16 ~ 4 FOUR panels. Yeey! I already have those four.

Part 1/2 ( I hit the 10.000 max characters limit. Ooops..)
 

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Part 2/2 (sorry!)
4.1 I've read in another thread ( link ) by gnubie:
[...] People using external chargers with a load direct on the battery often fall into the trap where the charger senses the load current and never exits absorption charging silently killing the battery. Quality chargers include a maximum absorption charge time as an option if loads are placed direct across the battery without a current sensing device so that the charger can see what is really going into the battery.
[...]

screenshot.5016.jpg

This has me worried, and wondering if my approach was wrong (see diagram above). That's how my PWM charge controller provider recommended me wiring the load.
Should I, then, connect my load in the other terminals?

screenshot.5017.jpg

IF so... suppose my batteries are reaching 50% and I decide to plug my UPS to the grid (so the power supply would kick in and start charging the batteries), what would happen with my PWM controller? Poof! [smoke & fireworks Light and SFX]

4.2 Suppose I want to start making use of what I already have. I've played enough with arduinos, raspberrys and relays to automate the switchover to the grid. This way, I think I will be able to use the panels only when they produce more than required (preventing the batteries from draining) or the grid otherwise. Would you do it? If not, why not?

4.3 If I get two more panels, I will have a lot of excess power generation at summer. I might do some relay+arduino magic to hook my fridge to solar during the day. I even thought of my Air conditioner. How do you calculate starting peaks for inducting loads like compressors ? My A/A is a fairly small LG dual inverter, but my fridge has a standard compressor.






5. A few notes:

5.1 I live in a big city. Believe it or not, I have almost no sun obstructions. So, lots of sun. I couldn't resist starting this project despite being a top appartment.
5.2 My roof is horizontal. No railings. I'm worried about strong winds, which are very uncommon but they happen.
5.3 I Won't drill the roof. I'm trying to design a frame with counterweights (heavy enough to assure they won't go flying).
5.4 Wire distances will be almost negligible. ~10 meters max.
5.5 I consider this project as a long term test. Not permanent (hence, no drillings). Sooner or later, I will move to a house with a bit of garden (I like plants! Did I say that already?) when that happens, I might go "almost" offgrid for good.
5.6 The PWM picture shows an IMPROPER wiring coming from panels. This was a simple mock test with two panels to see that everything worked. And yes, I feel silly for using black as positive and red as negative, but I double checked and was eager to test.



We almost grew old together now. Sorry about the wall of text
 
Hello WoodsieLord, I've found the specs for your charge controller and it does say the unit can support a 40A load which if true is quite impressive for a small controller. Your 1400 watt inverter under full load would be around 30 amps at 48v so the charger should cope with that according to the specs. If you can use a precharge resistor to charge up any input capacitors in the inverter first rather than applying the inverter to the charge controller directly. The capacitors charging up would exceed the chargers capabilities and either make it disconnect the output or be damaged.

I couldn't find anything useful about the charging behaviour of the controller.

You should do some tests with your multimeter to see what voltages the charger is putting across your battery to see what the charger is actually doing. It might have a time limit on absorption charging built in so you wouldn't need to worry about over charging. If it turns out that it does not have a time limit but relies only on current flow do some more tests where you put a load on the controller's output and see if the charger senses that the battery is charged from the current going into the battery and goes to float mode.
 
Do you think it's too simplistic to just tell him to hook the PWM 'battery' terminals to the UPS battery bank, and solar terminals to the panels? Done.
I was working on the basis that the 40amp load rating may not be true.
 
Thanks for the replies!
The charge controller seems to be quite generic, indeed. It came with a small sheet with the LED explanations. I'll search for it.

Usually, UPS manufacturers offer the possibility to get an add on with a network port ( "Smart cards" "web cards" "snmp cards" ). They usually are super expensive. I was able to get one (using grabbr, from ebay) at ~ u$d 45. It came nice, but I had no way to get it to work. I think it's busted. I even tried with several GXT3 units at work with no luck. I would like to get one that works, it would provide a lot of useful info.

I currently have four panels. The logic would be two in series and those series in parallel. This means 18A max, right? I think it will handle another two panel series 18A+9 ~~ 27A max. That's still below 75% of advertised capacity..

best regrads
 
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