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What are the risks to not upsizing the chassis ground to match new power system?

mantis_solar

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Joined
Nov 19, 2023
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Colorado
I'm looking for some electrical insight. I'm (slowly...) upgrading the power system in my trailer to:
  • 2x230 ah Lithium batteries
  • 1200 VA Victron inverter
  • Lynx distributor
  • (bunch of panels, not germane to this question)
1/0 AWG cables from the batteries to the Lynx, 200a MBRF
2 AWG cables to the inverter (biggest it can handle), 4 AWG ground cable, 175a Mega fuse.
My question is around grounding the bus bar to the chassis. The stock chassis grounding wire from the existing bus bar is 8 AWG. Per the design I'm following, I should do 2 AWG (1/2 the battery) to the chassis to match the batteries. The issue is that it looks like a royal PITA to route that cable. The hole on the bottom of thee trailer that has everything coming out is filled with foam. OK, I can chip that out and refill it. But it's really hard to reach behind the cabinets and get to that cable routing. How much risk is it living with 8 AWG? For context I'm an engineer and I Really like having things over dimensioned. I'm leaning toward doing it, but I figured I ask for some perspective.
 
What is the purpose of this "ground wire"? Is it a return path for any of your circuits, or for safety in case a bare wire touches the body of the vehicle or one of your components?
 
What is the purpose of this "ground wire"? Is it a return path for any of your circuits, or for safety in case a bare wire touches the body of the vehicle or one of your components?
Every RV power system design I see has a chassis ground from the bus bar. Closest you can get to earth ground in a vehicle. Many of the components (Inverter, solar charge controller) also have a ground line.
 
Every RV power system design I see has a chassis ground from the bus bar. Closest you can get to earth ground in a vehicle. Many of the components (Inverter, solar charge controller) also have a ground line.
That doesn’t answer the question and is somewhat contradictory to itself.

Put another way: Does it carry real, operating current or just fault current?
 
What fault current is there going to be for your DC side (looks like 175A)? And how does that compare to what the tables say about fault current on #8?

Under NEC #8 would be too small. But cars are not houses.
 
How can it over engineered if it needs to handle loads like 150 amps?
Dude, it's a standard engineer joke...
Pessimist looks at half glass of water and says it is half empty. Engineer looks at it and says the glass is overengineered by 100%...
 
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