What does 125 amp load panel mean?

[tomy2]

Finished my setup at the subpanel with a small 125 amp box. Looking for another load panel to use at the main panel. Is a 125amp box limited to 125 total in breakers? or 125 amps max usage. they sell 125 panels with room for 20 breakers, even twenty 15 amp breakers would be 300 amps.
I had to locate the load panel above the existing subpanel in order to use the existing wires. I don't want to do that at the main panel. So I am looking to put the load panel side by side with the Main. Anybody using a load panel that would work? preferably with the neutral and ground busbars installed.
Here is a pic of my first instal, still needs a drywall patch.https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rbjp641uYxKrh5hD6

 

[Ampster]

Is a 125amp box limited to 125 total in breakers? or 125 amps max usage. they sell 125 panels with room for 20 breakers, even twenty 15 amp breakers would be 300 amps.

That is typically the rating of the main breaker or bus bar. There are some solar ready panels with a larger capacity bus bar than main breaker. Yes the total Ampacity of the breakers can exceed the main breaker. Typically not every circuit is using its capacity and not every circuit will likely be on at the same time. Electricians typically do a load analysis.

I had to locate the load panel above the existing subpanel in order to use the existing wires.

One alternative is to use a wiring gutter. Some splices can be made in a wiring gutter which may give you more flexibility.

 

[Ampster]

still needs a drywall patch

Be sure and put nail protection plates where the wires cross the studs. Depending on code, exposed Romex below 8 feet is prohibited. You may need to cover that with drywall as well.

 

[tomy2]

That is typically the rating of the main breaker or bus bar. There are some solar ready panels with a larger capacity bus bar than main breaker. Yes the total Ampacity of the breakers can exceed the main breaker. Typically not every circuit is using its capacity and not every circuit will likely be on at the same time. Electricians typically do a load analysis.

One alternative is to use a wiring gutter. Some splices can be made in a wiring gutter which may give you more flexibility.

Where would I find a "solar ready panel" ? and what is a wiring gutter ?

 

[Ampster]

Most home centers and supply house carry solar ready main service panels. Wiring gutter or wiring trough is a square cross section a few feet long. Most supply house carry or special order it.
I got mine online.

wiring trough - Google Search

 

[tomy2]

Most home centers and supply house carry them. Wiring gutter or wiring trough is a square cross section a few feet long. Most supply house carry or special order it..I got mine online.

wiring trough - Google Search

Is there a user friendly online site for this type of products, besides HD and Amazon.

 

[schmism]

no, typically once you cross over to projects requireing wireing gutter almost everyone assumes your not DIY, and if you are, you know enough not to need to be hand fed information about the products.

 

[PlaneBatteries]

So is the lower panel a sub panel or is that the main?
If that's a sub and you need more circuits buy a larger breaker panel that has the amount of circuits you need ( and then some) , rip out that sub and combine them into one clean install. Make sure your feeder wires are proper size and sub feed breaker.
External romex that low and hidden by sheetrock won't fly- shoot a hole thru that triple stud on the right 1 1/4" away from the edge and shoot the 2 cables you have stapled externally, probably still a good idea to use a plate or run it thru a short nipple to protect it.
NEC doesn't allow a box higher than 6'7" so your pic with the panel above the main breaker panel won't fly
If the lower box is a main panel then relocate the sub panel in the next stud bay over and bore a couple 1" holes thru the studs and run a 3 or 4 " long conduit nipple in your stud hole connecting the two panels ( open up the box knock out plugs) with the nuts on both sides and have a plastic collar at the ends to protect the conductors entering and exiting from chafe. You can fill that nipple up to 60% with conductors as it is not considered conduit or a raceway.
Unless you are going to grid tie you do not need a solar ready panel as the 120% rule does not apply since you do not have grid AND Inverter input feeding the bus bars at the same time plus they are not cheap either. Most don't know that Square D QO 150-225 amp panels up all have the same 225 amp rated bus bars (solid copper) so if you needed that extra amp rating you can get away with the cheaper lower amp panels also they do come with the neutral and ground bus bars and they are NOT tied together as they should not be in a sub panel scenario.
Splices/ wire nuts in the panels are acceptable and the hot and neutral must stay together if moving to the new box- the ground can stay where it is.
Best thing you could do is read up on the latest NEC requirements, go on Mikeholt.com and watch many of his you tube videos as you can if you are going to take on this project.

 

[tomy2]

Thanks for your analysis. The lower panel in the pic is a subpanel in my closet. It is fed by a 60 amp breaker and a thick ass wire from the main panel, which is located at the other end of my house. I wasn't concerned about NEC, since I don't intend to get it inspected. I just wanted it safe, grounded properly and the right size wires with properly torqued nuts. I have no intention to grid ty.
I am preparing to do something similiar at the main panel. That is why I am shopping for a new load panel. I will probably make it split phase, then I could feed solar 240 back to that subpanel and stick all the wires back into it and eliminate the second box. I will do this one following NEC.
I try to avoid Square D, because the breakers are more expensive than the siemens. But are they better or worth it? I think the siemens and others use aluminum.

 

[PlaneBatteries]

The problem with back feeding into a sub panel is you have no way to install a lock out device for main grid circuit breaker - even if you don't get it permitted you really need to have this.
In order to use it you need two of the top left or right breaker spaces under the main breaker for a double pole breaker so depending if you are out of space on the main you may have to put a sub next to it and run a few branch circuits over to it.
I am doing exactly what you want to do - 2) 6548's back feeding the main panel and I had to run a sub next to it to give me the space to put the inverter feed up top. I also used a double pole 60 amp breaker in the sub panel to supply grid to the inverters to charge the batteries.
I go off grid and run on inverters all day and around 5pm I go back to grid and use remaining daylight to charge batteries ( I need more panels) - around 9-10 pm I go back on inverters . So far i cut my bill from $378 to $188 and once I get more panels and tweak them I should be able to stay off grid longer.
I don't think it's a matter of who is better or worth it, I would go with whatever brand panel your main is so you can import your old breakers over to the new sub but best advice is just replace with new .

 

[tomy2]

The problem with back feeding into a sub panel is you have no way to install a lock out device for main grid circuit breaker - even if you don't get it permitted you really need to have this.
In order to use it you need two of the top left or right breaker spaces under the main breaker for a double pole breaker so depending if you are out of space on the main you may have to put a sub next to it and run a few branch circuits over to it.
I am doing exactly what you want to do - 2) 6548's back feeding the main panel and I had to run a sub next to it to give me the space to put the inverter feed up top. I also used a double pole 60 amp breaker in the sub panel to supply grid to the inverters to charge the batteries.
I go off grid and run on inverters all day and around 5pm I go back to grid and use remaining daylight to charge batteries ( I need more panels) - around 9-10 pm I go back on inverters . So far i cut my bill from $378 to $188 and once I get more panels and tweak them I should be able to stay off grid longer.
I don't think it's a matter of who is better or worth it, I would go with whatever brand panel your main is so you can import your old breakers over to the new sub but best advice is just replace with new .

sounds like you are paying CA. rates. with this heat, I have had to juggle my off grid time too. I try to stay off grid till 9pm when the rates go down.

 

[PlaneBatteries]

sounds like you are paying CA. rates. with this heat, I have had to juggle my off grid time too. I try to stay off grid till 9pm when the rates go down.

Nah Florida.... not really that bad