diy solar

diy solar

Where are you guys sourcing parts? Need fuses, junction boxes, switch gear, bus bars, etc.

fastline

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Nov 18, 2019
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Guess I got most of this in the title....lol Simple stuff like lugs, terminations, etc. Some of this is just stupid expensive for "solar" applications. They must dip it in gold. I have been using some AC components but would be nice to find some cheap sources for this stuff.
 
I've purchased stuff off ebay, amazon, aliexpress, Alibaba and local suppliers. I know what you mean, what a muddled world of goodies to sort through. BTW, Tylenol will not help !

I have bought a few important bits from one of our members here, Justin Laureltec who works with Bay Marine, good prices, fast shipping & Justin is most helpful & knowledgeable as well. See links below. AC Components should stay on the AC side they are not rated or capable for serious DC duty. DC can be forgiving in some aspects but it can be quite hostile in others, avoid short cuts & over complicating. On the main website, Will has many links to various products & vendors which are good sources, you should look at those as well.

Bay Marine:
Authorized sales and full-featured support of Victron Energy, Sterling Power, Battle Born, Bussman, BEP Marinco, FTZ, and Blue Sea components:
https://www.baymarinesupply.com
https://www.ebay.com/str/baymarinesupply
https://www.amazon.com/baymarinesupply
 
Irregardless of proper UL listings, certs, etc, AC components can be VERY easily adapted for DC and many components are dual rated.

I am afraid a metal lug will always be a metal lug and it comes down to mass and conductivity. Same rating as AC? Uh, no. Get it to pass inspection? Again no.
 
Go to this page and use the drop down menu under the Solar Components tab for almost all of those items :


I believe it helps support Will which helps support this forum
 
Irregardless of proper UL listings, certs, etc, AC components can be VERY easily adapted for DC and many components are dual rated.

I am afraid a metal lug will always be a metal lug and it comes down to mass and conductivity. Same rating as AC? Uh, no. Get it to pass inspection? Again no.
Don't use AC circuit breaks for DC applications. Because AC alternates and DC doesn't, an AC circuit breaker can arc on DC, be fused shut, and not break the circuit.
 
Don't use AC circuit breaks for DC applications. Because AC alternates and DC doesn't, an AC circuit breaker can arc on DC, be fused shut, and not break the circuit.

I have many Square D breakers that say they are rated up to 24V DC..?
 
From the QO breaker/load center faq:

"The load center catalog numbers listed below are UL LISTED, File E6294, for use on 48 V dc systems. The load centers labeling will NOT be MARKED showing the DC voltage system, however they are suitable for the application. QO branch breakers 10-70 ampere (1 and 2 pole) are also UL LISTED for use on 48V dc systems. Short circuit current rating is limited to 5,000 amperes when used on 48V dc."

https://www.se.com/us/en/faqs/index?page=content&id=FA95270&actp=search&viewlocale=en_US

Homeline series breakers are NOT DC rated, only the QO series.
Here's Offgrid Steve:

 
From the QO breaker/load center faq:

"The load center catalog numbers listed below are UL LISTED, File E6294, for use on 48 V dc systems. The load centers labeling will NOT be MARKED showing the DC voltage system, however they are suitable for the application. QO branch breakers 10-70 ampere (1 and 2 pole) are also UL LISTED for use on 48V dc systems. Short circuit current rating is limited to 5,000 amperes when used on 48V dc."

https://www.se.com/us/en/faqs/index?page=content&id=FA95270&actp=search&viewlocale=en_US

Homeline series breakers are NOT DC rated, only the QO series.
Here's Offgrid Steve:

If they're rated for it, then they won't have the problem I was talking about. There are AC breakers, DC breakers, and AC/DC breakers.
It is because of the spark on DC when you break the circuit that isn't a problem with AC.

 
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