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Wiring Help

CL300stick

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So, I purchased 2 12v 200ah Chins batteries, a 24v Growatt 3000 inverter and some solar panels. Will shows wiring directly to the inverter. Should I fuse the connection from the battery to the inverter? I'm using 2 gauge wire. Many thanks to Will and all of the community.


Drew
 
Yes you need a fuse.

To me this is a case of fusing for the wire since the 60 degree celsius rating is 95 amps for 2 AWG, but a 3000 watt load while the batteries are low could pull 170 amps.

I would check the ampacity of the wire you’re using and don’t exceed that. That would mean the inverter should not be run at full load. 90 C wire would have a higher ampacoty
 
2AWG wire is a bit small for 3000W on a 24V system. You really should use at least 1AWG.

3000W / 24V / 0.85 = 150A

And the fuse should be 200A.
 
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2AWG wire is a bit small for 3000W on a 24V system. You really should use at least 1AWG.

3000W / 24V / 0.85 = 150A

And the fuse should be 200A.
What I don’t like about that formula is it does not take into account voltage loss or low battery voltage. For me, I like to use the inverter’s low voltage cutoff point, which is probably around 20 volts. The low voltage cutoff point, wattage rating and inverter efficiency are all off the inverter spec sheet.

Inverter size / low voltage cutoff / inverter efficiency = max amperage pull from battery

3000w /20v /.85 = 176 amps

For the fuse, 200 amps is good, but with my system, I went one fuse size up to 225 amps to cover DC loads in the RV. Also, I wanted to be sure my wiring had the ampacity to handle 225 amps, so I want with 4/0. THat has a 230 amp ampacity at 75 degrees C. That is the process and math I was shown a couple years ago whenI started my build. I don’t like to fuse more than the wire is rated for, and the manufacturer spec sheet would be the most accurate, but here is a chart I use to plan and that says 150 amps max for 1 AWG:

98984EC8-5A98-487B-B18F-A99BF9768883.jpeg

I’ve ran my 3000 watt inverter with lithiums for about a month and have ever seen anything near 20 volts to the inverter, but I did use the calculations I mentioned. I’ve never maxed out the inverter either, and the max load to the battery has not even reached 100 amps. With 200 ah of 24 volt batteries would be hard to max the inverter out for too long.
 
That is why I recommend marine grade cables. 105 degree C.
 
What I don’t like about that formula is it does not take into account voltage loss or low battery voltage. For me, I like to use the inverter’s low voltage cutoff point, which is probably around 20 volts.
24V for LiFePO₄ is about 9.5% SOC. My inverter is setup to shutdown at a higher SOC than that because my DC loads are far more important. 20.0V is 0% SOC. I see no reason to ever allow an inverter to run at full capacity long enough to let the battery become 100% drained.

And the formula, no matter the voltage you choose, does not account for voltage loss. It shouldn't. The formula just gives amps. You account for voltage loss when choosing the wire size based on the amps and wire length.

3000w /20v /.85 = 176 amps

For the fuse, 200 amps is good, but with my system, I went one fuse size up to 225 amps to cover DC loads in the RV. Also, I wanted to be sure my wiring had the ampacity to handle 225 amps, so I want with 4/0. THat has a 230 amp ampacity at 75 degrees C.
My mention of a 200A fuse is based on a max inverter amps of 150A. For 176A I would suggest a 225A fuse as well. The 1AWG I suggested is meant to safely carry 150A with a voltage drop less than 3% up to 15' roundtrip. And it can safely be fused up to 250A. But this does assume high quality pure copper stranded wire with 105ºC rated insulation. For your 176A value I would suggest at least 1/0AWG of the same type of wire. Of course bigger wire is better if you will be at that max amperage often and bigger is definitely required if you get wire with a lower rated insulation.

here is a chart I use
That chart does not account for voltage drop. That's just the raw ampacity of the given wires.
 
24V for LiFePO₄ is about 9.5% SOC. My inverter is setup to shutdown at a higher SOC than that because my DC l……
I think all that is finely if you can limit yourself to that. Sounds for you it’s easy to do. For me it’s easy to do also until I leave the trailer for the day and others use it. As I’ve said in other posts, they believe in conservation until they have to do less, then I need to plan for those low voltage incidents.
That chart does not account for voltage drop. That's just the raw ampacity of the given wires.
There is voltage surge from the batteries from high loads that is in addition to wire losses. With lithium I noticed, it’s next to nothing.

I have found for the few installs I have done when planning, wire ampacity means everything with inverter to battery wiring and voltage loss is next to nothing.

I plan my system to the lowest common denominator and for me that’s the ones I let use it who don’t understand electricity. If I did not deal with that, my wiring would likely be thinner.
 
I have found for the few installs I have done when planning, wire ampacity means everything with inverter to battery wiring and voltage loss is next to nothing.
As long as the wires to the inverter are only a few feet then voltage loss won't be a factor. If someone puts the inverter, let's say, 20' from the battery then it starts being an issue.
 
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