diy solar

diy solar

YES: RV Solar/ Li/ and AC running full time

I fully believe the 13.5k and 15k BTU rooftop AC's are not performing at their rating, or at the very least are loosing a lot of cooling capabilities due to ducting inefficiencies etc. I have 3x 15k BTU rooftop AC's and they struggle to keep the trailer at 80* when its 105-115* outside. With 45k BTU's, I'd expect it to easily maintain 70*. I also think this is why lower BTU mini splits and window AC's are capable of doing the same thing as my 3x rooftop AC's.
With nothing but practical experience to base this on I totally agree. We stayed in our parents 35' RV with two 15000 BTU roof top units with the same problem. The next year we build a skoolie 'all steel with mostly stock insulation' install a heat pump in it with 12000 BTU and were cool at much higher outdoor temps.

I reeeeeeealy want to install a 12000 BTU mini split in my father in laws RV just to see what happens!
 
I really want a mini split in my own RV, but the only practical way is with ceiling cassettes and that involves cutting a mighty large hole in the roof. Its also not feasible financially unless all 3 of my rooftop ACs poop the bed at the same time! Lol
 
I really want a mini split in my own RV, but the only practical way is with ceiling cassettes and that involves cutting a mighty large hole in the roof. Its also not feasible financially unless all 3 of my rooftop ACs poop the bed at the same time! Lol

I can arrange for that ...
 
Amazing you've got less than half of the available BTUs and it cools just as good though.

I'm hating my rooftop ACs more and more...
 
In Canada... figures. Now try that in Florida with 95 F and 80% humidity at day time, AND nights sitting at 88 F and and 85% humidity, while having to run the AC NONESTOP day and night. In Canada I wouldn't even mess with an AC.
 
I'm pretty sure 6,000 BTU will not be enough on the hottest days. My 13,500 BTU Coleman unit struggles on 95+ degree days and it can't get the temperature below 76 degrees inside.

You could also look up some charts that show how much heat gets through your walls given your insulation levels. Calculate the area exposed to the sun, multiply by the factor on the chart and that should give you a good approximation. If the final number shows your unit selection could go to either side (for example, it looks like 9,000 BTU might just squeak by and 12,000 BTU would work), pick the larger one. It would be a shame to do all that work and the unit is undersized.

Your average car AC has 40 to 60k BTU. A 12k BTU unit will not be enough in an old class C, in places like Florida.
 
Your average car AC has 40 to 60k BTU. A 12k BTU unit will not be enough in an old class C, in places like Florida.
Your average car also has absolutely horrible, horrible insulation. You can get away with 5000BTU in a 40' RV if you have the right insulation.
 
Your average car also has absolutely horrible, horrible insulation. You can get away with 5000BTU in a 40' RV if you have the right insulation.

1. His RV is from 1999. Insulation back then was a joke.

2. Rule of thumb in the RV business is: anything above 32' should have 2 AC roof units.

3. 5000 BTU in a 40' trailer / RV is not enough in Florida, for at least 6 months out of the year. Unless you call temps in the 80s comfortable.

4. Scaling an AC depends on MANY factors, like location, insulation, color of exterior, age and condition of RV, humidity, altitude. A general claim like OP or you make is senseless, and doesn't work globally. Getting an AC / solar / battery system running in Canada is a totally different story than down South!
 
1. His RV is from 1999. Insulation back then was a joke.

2. Rule of thumb in the RV business is: anything above 32' should have 2 AC roof units.

3. 5000 BTU in a 40' trailer / RV is not enough in Florida, for at least 6 months out of the year. Unless you call temps in the 80s comfortable.

4. Scaling an AC depends on MANY factors, like location, insulation, color of exterior, age and condition of RV, humidity, altitude. A general claim like OP or you make is senseless, and doesn't work globally. Getting an AC / solar / battery system running in Canada is a totally different story than down South!
Notice my carefully chosen words "if you have the right insulation". My example of 5000BTU could required 3 feet of insulation around the entire outside of the RV,. But it would be enough, even in Florida.

If you tried to cool an RV with the insulation equivalent of a pickup, it would require 80-90k BTU probably.

I'm not disagreeing with you, just restating what I meant.
 
Yes a friend of mine that has a residential ac repair business told me the coils are just not big enough in the rooftop rv ac's and that was why they are so inefficient. I also asked him about the mini splits and he said the problem with them is trying to get parts or even a wiring diagrams to try and repair them is not easy, kind of like a window ac if it quits just replace it
I ended up buying one of these a short time back, they had dropped price $50 and then there was a 7% coupon and I had $150 in points to use up. I had been watching this since the thread started. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UV3LGPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a trip to take this month so I'm not installing it until later. But the deal was too much to pass up. For that price, if it lasts more than 5 years, I'm not too worried about parts. The $60 off is a better price than I paid before the points and I can tell you the unit showed up a week earlier than the date Amazon predicted.
 
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I ended up buying one of these a short time back, they had dropped price $50 and then there was a 7% coupon and I had $150 in points to use up. I had been watching this since the thread started.

I have a trip to take this month so I'm not installing it until later. But the deal was too much to pass up. For that price, if it lasts more than 5 years, I'm not too worried about parts. The $60 off is a better price than I paid before the points and I can tell you the unit showed up a week earlier than the date Amazon predicted.
Which one did you buy?
 
1. His RV is from 1999. Insulation back then was a joke.

2. Rule of thumb in the RV business is: anything above 32' should have 2 AC roof units.

3. 5000 BTU in a 40' trailer / RV is not enough in Florida, for at least 6 months out of the year. Unless you call temps in the 80s comfortable.

4. Scaling an AC depends on MANY factors, like location, insulation, color of exterior, age and condition of RV, humidity, altitude. A general claim like OP or you make is senseless, and doesn't work globally. Getting an AC / solar / battery system running in Canada is a totally different story than down South!
Here's a new update, as we're in the total summer heat here, even in canada...

So on the solar news, yes it's true, my solar return is lower than in Florida, about 20% less than the panel rating. Which is fine, as long as you plan accordingly.

Regarding insulation, it's all pink insulation, walls, ceiling, and double plywood floor has 1.5 inches between as well. Not horrible, not great. The window frames are too hot to touch, no matter what you do with the coverings. It's really alot of heat transfer. That part is truly horrible and I wish I could change that alone.

So, it's hot for here, it's 90+ days, I have zero shade on purpose, and it's 78 at night. Day after Day after Day. So my cooling demands have changed as well. There's basically no cool down overnight, as I keep the inside at 72. The solar charge shuts off WAY before the AC now, so it runs on battery alone for the evening, and then less at night once the walls etc cool down in the dark. With that said, the AC load is consuming around 120ah out of the battery bank each night. Of course this regenerates in the morning easily when the sun is less hot and the unit is already cool from the darkness. Then shortly after sunrise, rinse and repeat etc. During the day I'm still charging and keeping up with the loads no problem, so not much to say about that.

Some factors that would crush this good progress: WORSE insulation, MORE heat, bad solar production, etc. For now, the setup is perfect for my needs.

Interesting driving fact.. I turn off the Heatpump AC when driving only. .. and the dash AC keeps the temps reasonable, so that also kills the DC load.. and ALWAYS tops off the batteries when we drive anywhere. The highest load in the unit is always the AC, so if it's off for any reason (think power management) then the recharge is plenty fast at 800~ watts. We do NOT have a charger that uses alternator power.

Plans: I'm going to add another 395w panel up top on a second charge controller. I have the space, it's not expensive for the panel (same as my 3rd one) and I already have the 40a Epever unit in a box from years ago. This will just crush some more load, and adding another 30% of charge capacity is all I think I'll ever need when travelling in more hot climates.

Review on the Senville 9000btu split AC 110v version: This thing is NOT working at all near it's full capacity. I have it set on 'COOL' function, temperature measured in the head unit (and not the hand held remote) and I set and forget. It has a turbo mode, and if I ever turn it on the watts usage will more than double... it's very strong, and I'm not using it any where near it's capacity to keep up with my cooling needs. I'm very pleased with it for my RV. I'll be doing a trailer rebuild next year and I'll use it again as well.
 
Thanks for the update, sounds like the Senville works a lot better than the 8000 btu window unit I am testing. About 100-102f outside now sun beating down on the van cab end and it is running constant maintaining 80f inside at about 800 watts
 
Thanks for the update, sounds like the Senville works a lot better than the 8000 btu window unit I am testing. About 100-102f outside now sun beating down on the van cab end and it is running constant maintaining 80f inside at about 800 watts
Do you have the front cab windows blocked? Like the silver reflective stuff or anything?
 
Yes one of those white vinyl covers that cover the 3 windows plus the insulated sun shields on the inside front.
There is no overhead anymore this thing was a 22' class C that we bought new in 1996 unfortunately they did not know how to build it without water leaks so 25 years latter had rot from top down and bottom up. Now its a class C converted to box truck converted to mini toyhauler/motorhome
 
Here's a new update, as we're in the total summer heat here, even in canada...

So on the solar news, yes it's true, my solar return is lower than in Florida, about 20% less than the panel rating. Which is fine, as long as you plan accordingly.

Regarding insulation, it's all pink insulation, walls, ceiling, and double plywood floor has 1.5 inches between as well. Not horrible, not great. The window frames are too hot to touch, no matter what you do with the coverings. It's really alot of heat transfer. That part is truly horrible and I wish I could change that alone.

So, it's hot for here, it's 90+ days, I have zero shade on purpose, and it's 78 at night. Day after Day after Day. So my cooling demands have changed as well. There's basically no cool down overnight, as I keep the inside at 72. The solar charge shuts off WAY before the AC now, so it runs on battery alone for the evening, and then less at night once the walls etc cool down in the dark. With that said, the AC load is consuming around 120ah out of the battery bank each night. Of course this regenerates in the morning easily when the sun is less hot and the unit is already cool from the darkness. Then shortly after sunrise, rinse and repeat etc. During the day I'm still charging and keeping up with the loads no problem, so not much to say about that.

Some factors that would crush this good progress: WORSE insulation, MORE heat, bad solar production, etc. For now, the setup is perfect for my needs.

Interesting driving fact.. I turn off the Heatpump AC when driving only. .. and the dash AC keeps the temps reasonable, so that also kills the DC load.. and ALWAYS tops off the batteries when we drive anywhere. The highest load in the unit is always the AC, so if it's off for any reason (think power management) then the recharge is plenty fast at 800~ watts. We do NOT have a charger that uses alternator power.

Plans: I'm going to add another 395w panel up top on a second charge controller. I have the space, it's not expensive for the panel (same as my 3rd one) and I already have the 40a Epever unit in a box from years ago. This will just crush some more load, and adding another 30% of charge capacity is all I think I'll ever need when travelling in more hot climates.

Review on the Senville 9000btu split AC 110v version: This thing is NOT working at all near it's full capacity. I have it set on 'COOL' function, temperature measured in the head unit (and not the hand held remote) and I set and forget. It has a turbo mode, and if I ever turn it on the watts usage will more than double... it's very strong, and I'm not using it any where near it's capacity to keep up with my cooling needs. I'm very pleased with it for my RV. I'll be doing a trailer rebuild next year and I'll use it again as well.
You might consider adding an awning on the side/sides to give some shade. Ever notice the awning is usually on the refrigerator side of any camper? It's there for a reason.

I bought the same unit for my TC. It will be awhile before install but it will be an interesting install nonetheless. I'll take pics as it progresses.
 
You might consider adding an awning on the side/sides to give some shade. Ever notice the awning is usually on the refrigerator side of any camper? It's there for a reason.

I bought the same unit for my TC. It will be awhile before install but it will be an interesting install nonetheless. I'll take pics as it progresses.
This is good advice, especially if you have plenty of room on both sides of your camper at your camp spot. I did something different, though. I made solar awnings to use when the driver side of my TT is exposed to the sun. They don't look pretty, but they add another 300 watts (realistically 220 watts is the most I've ever seen them make when wired in series) but most importantly they help keep the windows on that side of the RV cool without having to lower the shades and put reflectix behind the shade.

I got the idea from the RV with Tito DIY RV channel on YouTube. I made some slight changes but it's essentially his idea. They can also be ground mounted if you need the extra solar but don't need to shade the windows.

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