I believe something like this will work. I do not think i will be able to go to 96v since very few chargers/invertors and what not are capable of doing 96v. Also being able to supply 600amps is fun.
Your 280Ah batteries are likely limited by 280Ah on a cell basis and possibly even less due to the BMS. For longevity and balance margin, you'd probably want a 300A BMS on each battery yet limit their draw to 250A each.
Your solar won't contribute much relative to the battery capacity:
32 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 28,672Wh of battery
28,672Wh/(800W * 4hr/day) = 9 days to fully charge those batteries from empty. Assumes clear skies and no shading of any kind on any panel.
the ac50 is underpowered for the application at 48v however, i don't see a viable way of setting the system up for 96v, and at 1c should i get close to 280amps per cell? also i do not think that i will be running peak 100% of the time. As for capacity and charging i do 100% agree that it will take bit to recharge thats why i have sails, and have a back up gennie as a range extender.
280A is their absolute limit, but that assumes you have the load perfectly balanced between them. That's why I suggested 250A with a 300A BMS each for a bit of margin.
Is this intended to be a blue water boat, or just a day boat around the lake.
If its a blue water boat I would not recomend trying to DIY something with non-marine grade equipment. The inverter and batteries dont care, but the propulsion unit is more critical and would not trust something that wasn't marine tested.
Its my understanding that most edrives also use the prop and motor to regen when under sail. haveing a control unit that is capable of this and matched well with the drive unit is critical.
What are the battery boxes you show in your schematic? Are they a marine rated box that you can put a DIY battery in? I am trying to determine the best way to protect DIY or non-marine batteries from the salty air.
I will probably have to build the boxes, these were just stencils i had available, and I have some big 8d batteries that i will be pulling, and those look just fine.
With LFP batteries there is little corrosion as they are inside the boat and the terminals are usually alloy and the bolts stainless . A light grease is all that's needed . There are no lead acid fumes or leaks . That's what used to do all the damage . LFP can be framed in under seats etc and there are no gasses given off and compressed in slightly, holds them in place .
They make a great system but they are 2x Motenergy ME1616 Liquid-Cooled Brushless Motors connected to a single 2:1 gear ratio but about 5x what i will spend on the motor i plan on using, since i will be mating to a transmission i already have in place.
I considered using my existing transmission and V-drive but they are 41 years old as well and would need at a minimum freshening up and maximum a total rebuild. Freshening up would be hundreds of dollars and rebuild thousands. A new 16 HP diesel which would require a new tramsmission and V-drive (nothing mates to my old Volvo Penta MD7A) was $14K with me doing the instal.
My borgwarner velvet drive transmission is seems decent, probably just need to redo the ATF but fairly builtproof, just need to make up 1 7/8" keyed shaft to it. which i don't think will be too hard.
I believe something like this will work. I do not think i will be able to go to 96v since very few chargers/invertors and what not are capable of doing 96v. Also being able to supply 600amps is fun.
i could but i am looking at the whole system, how do i get 48v to the victron controller, are there 96v mppt? I can do those at 48v a lot more easily. if I did 96v i would need to do 96v at 600amps.
Two 48V batteries connected in series. Two 48V MPPT, each with an array of PV panels. One or two inverters running off 48V.
Just need equipment that is isolated, doesn't care of negative or positive of battery is grounded. Which is probably many. my SMA allow that.
Amps? That's just how many strings of batteries in parallel.