My Settings for MPP Solar PIP-2024LV-MK 24V System

[ender]

I've been reading Will's recommendations, watching other Youtuber recommendations, reading this forum, and corresponding with SOK (company that makes the two 12V 100Ah LiFePo4 batteries I'm using) to try to figure out the best settings for my MPP Solar PIP-2024LV-MK 2kW 24V box. Since there are so many different opinions on what the settings should be and I couldn't find one post that had a definitive list of all the program settings and why they were chosen I figured I'd post my settings here to serve as a reference for others.

Note: these settings are for a 24V LiFePo4 system. More specifically, a 24V system that's using two SOK 12V 100Ah batteries in series.

I emailed SOK to get an Open Circuit Voltage (Vocv) vs State of Charge (SOC %) table and they sent me the same exact table Will has on his site. Not sure if WIll got this table from SOK or if SOK got this table from Will:


If I don't specify a program field it's because it's a field that is subjective meaning the user can decide what they want it to be.

NOTE: As I receive feedback for other members of this forum and do my own testing, the parameters I've outlined below may change. Please read the rest of the thread to see any changes I've made since this original post. I will keep the original values of changed parameters in grey for the sake of seeing the history of how I've changed the parameters.

Program 02 - Max Charging Current: 20A (while the SOK can handle a max of 50A, they recommend doing 20A to keep it at a 0.2C charge rate for best cycle life)
Program 05 - Battery Type: USE (this will allow me to specified detailed charging and cut off parameters in later program fields)
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 20A (same reason as Program 02)
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 10A (to avoid tripping 15A breaker)
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 20A (this is actually the DC battery charge current and it equates to ~5A AC Input current)
Program 12 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch to utility as source instead of battery: 23.6V (this is the low voltage cut off value that SOK provided when I asked them via email)
Program 12 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch to utility as source instead of battery: 24V (I agree that not much power below this)
Program 13 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch back to battery from utility as source: 26.5V (Will recommends 24.5V but I don't want the battery charging up to 24.5V, the box switching to battery, then battery draining to 23.6V, box switching to utility, battery charging back up to 24.5V, and so on. 24.5V/2 = 12.25V which is still on the steep portion of the low SoC voltage curve so I'd rather the battery charge up to the flat portion of the voltage curve before it's used again. 26.5V/2 = 13.25V which is closer to the knee of the curve)
Program 26 - Bulk Charge Voltage (CV Voltage): 28.4V (value that SOK provided when I asked them via email)
Program 27 - Floating Charging Voltage: 27V (value that SOK provided when I asked them via email)
Program 29 - Low DC cut-off Voltage: 23.6V (value that SOK provided when I asked them via email)
Program 29 - Low DC cut-off Voltage: 24V (to match Program 12)
Program 32 - Bulk Charging Time (CV Stage): This one confused me a bit because bulk charging is Constant Current but the text says "Bulk Charging (CV Stage)". I reached out to Peggy at MPP Solar to get clarification and she forwarded my email to Andy who was able to clarify. Andy said that this parameter specifies how long it will stay in the Bulk Charging stage of the Equalization. So this parameter I left at default (Aut) because it's not going to be used since I will disable Equalization in program 33. He drew this picture to illustrate what this parameter controls:

Program 33 - Battery Equalization: Disabled (LFP shouldn't be equalized)
Program 34 - Battery Equalization Voltage: 27V (same value as Floating Charge voltage just in case it does try to do equalization even though I've disabled it)
Program 35 - Battery Equalized Time: 60 minutes (default since equalization is disabled)
Program 36 - Battery Equalized Timeout: 120 minutes (default since equalization is disabled)
Program 37 - Equalization Interval: 30 days (default since equalization is disabled)
Program 39 - Equalization Activated Immediately: Disable (default since equalization is disabled)

Let me know if anyone has any questions about any of this or if you see something that's wrong with any of these settings. Hopefully this serves as a good reference to anyone that may have a similar system.

UPDATE: Installed Solar-Assistant.io software on Raspberry Pi 4 and connected it to MPP Solar box via USB and WOW! This software is amazing! Here's a screen capture of the settings page where you can view and change all the settings of the MPP Solar box.

 

[iamrich]

I've been reading Will's recommendations, watching other Youtuber recommendations, reading this forum, and corresponding with SOK (company that makes the two 12V 100Ah LiFePo4 batteries I'm using) to try to figure out the best settings for my MPP Solar PIP-2024LV-MK 2kW 24V box. Since there are so many different opinions on what the settings should be and I couldn't find one post that had a definitive list of all the program settings and why they were chosen I figured I'd post my settings here to serve as a reference for others.

Note: these settings are for a 24V LiFePo4 system. More specifically, a 24V system that's using two SOK 12V 100Ah batteries in series.


Let me know if anyone has any questions about any of this or if you see something that's wrong with any of these settings. Hopefully this serves as a good reference to anyone that may have a similar system.

Program 02 - Max Charging Current:. I have mine set for 80a (`220ah of battery), but with 2250w of panels, the charging is usually done at less than 20a because the sun isn't up all the way. By the time it is, the batteries are charged. The biggest number I have seen is 46a when the day switched form cloudy to full sun.
Program 05 - Battery Type: USE is good
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: Depends on your AC circuit. 20a from a 20a circuit is really high. I would set this at 10a since you have all the time in the world to charge.
Program 12 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch to utility as source instead of battery: I would set this at 24v. There is not much below 24v power wise, so why push your batteries that low?
Program 13 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch back to battery from utility as source: 26.5V is ok, but a lot of paid for power instead of free solar charging.
Program 26 - Bulk Charge Voltage (CV Voltage): I run mine at 28v
Program 27 - Floating Charging Voltage: I run mine at 27v
Program 29 - Low DC cut-off Voltage: I run mine at 24v
Program 32 - Bulk Charging Time (CV Stage): I don't have this setting on my hybrid (green version)

 

[ender]

Program 02 - Max Charging Current:. I have mine set for 80a (`220ah of battery), but with 2250w of panels, the charging is usually done at less than 20a because the sun isn't up all the way. By the time it is, the batteries are charged. The biggest number I have seen is 46a when the day switched form cloudy to full sun.
Program 05 - Battery Type: USE is good
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: Depends on your AC circuit. 20a from a 20a circuit is really high. I would set this at 10a since you have all the time in the world to charge.
Program 12 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch to utility as source instead of battery: I would set this at 24v. There is not much below 24v power wise, so why push your batteries that low?
Program 13 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch back to battery from utility as source: 26.5V is ok, but a lot of paid for power instead of free solar charging.
Program 26 - Bulk Charge Voltage (CV Voltage): I run mine at 28v
Program 27 - Floating Charging Voltage: I run mine at 27v
Program 29 - Low DC cut-off Voltage: I run mine at 24v
Program 32 - Bulk Charging Time (CV Stage): I don't have this setting on my hybrid (green version)

Thank you so much for taking the time to provide your input. You are 100% right about Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current. That's a great catch and I'll definitely be dropping that to 10A!

The following are the updated values I plan on using based on your feedback:
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 10A (to avoid tripping 15A breaker)
Program 12 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch to utility as source instead of battery: 24V (I agree that not much power below this)
Program 29 - Low DC cut-off Voltage: 24V (to match Program 12)

The rest of the values I'll keep as originally posted since they were the values provided by SOK and who better to know their batteries right... right? *hesistant laugh* lol

 

[JohnT]

Greetings and thanks for the posts. I am going to be using the same setup up (MPP Solar and SOK batteries), so this short series of posts answered one of my two questions I had going into this. My other question is off topic but since the setup is the same, I figured I’d ask anyway. How did you make sure the state of charge (SOC) of the two batteries were balanced before tying them into your system (24V system, so figured you are hooking the two 12V batteries in series)? My issue is that all I have to pre-charge them (before tying into the MPP controller) is a car battery charger, the typical one that plugs into your house power and is for a standard 12V car battery. The charger puts out a 10A current and assuming it must be something over 12V because otherwise it would not work on any 12V battery. My batteries are on the way but once I get them I figured I would first check the charges of each with a voltmeter. I guess there is a slight possibility that they may be equally charged already. If not, then my next step would be to connect them to each other in parallel and see if they balance that way. I’ve seen this done but understand that this may take too long to be practical. If that fails then, as a last resort, I was going to use the car battery charger and check them like a hawk. I figured if there were any issues the BMS’s would make certain they are not overcharged. Does anyone have any comments on this approach? Thanks.

 

[ender]

Greetings and thanks for the posts. I am going to be using the same setup up (MPP Solar and SOK batteries), so this short series of posts answered one of my two questions I had going into this. My other question is off topic but since the setup is the same, I figured I’d ask anyway. How did you make sure the state of charge (SOC) of the two batteries were balanced before tying them into your system (24V system, so figured you are hooking the two 12V batteries in series)? My issue is that all I have to pre-charge them (before tying into the MPP controller) is a car battery charger, the typical one that plugs into your house power and is for a standard 12V car battery. The charger puts out a 10A current and assuming it must be something over 12V because otherwise it would not work on any 12V battery. My batteries are on the way but once I get them I figured I would first check the charges of each with a voltmeter. I guess there is a slight possibility that they may be equally charged already. If not, then my next step would be to connect them to each other in parallel and see if they balance that way. I’ve seen this done but understand that this may take too long to be practical. If that fails then, as a last resort, I was going to use the car battery charger and check them like a hawk. I figured if there were any issues the BMS’s would make certain they are not overcharged. Does anyone have any comments on this approach? Thanks.

You can’t really use a voltage reading as an accurate indicator of SOC since in the middle the voltage curve is so flat that they could read very close in voltage and be very far apart in SOC.

What I did was first check voltage to ensure they were close to each other (in my case they were within 0.03V). I then connected them in parallel and using a small power supply that I have for my electronics hobbies, I set the voltage on the power supply to 14.4V and current limit to the max my supply could handle which was 5A. It took three 12 hours intervals of this (didn’t want to leave it overnight without supervision) before my supply finally went from constant current to constant voltage and eventually showed 0 amps. I then increased voltage to 14.6V which is the charge voltage and waited a few more minutes for it to hit 0 amps again. At that point that’s it. They’re balanced.

 

[JohnT]

Ender, thank you for explaining it so well. That makes sense to me. I do have a way of monitoring the charge so I will balance them and monitor the charging cycle. Thanks again.

 

[JohnT]

Ender, well, my batteries arrived. Just for the heck of it, I checked each one and it read 13.5V. I connected them in parallel and clamped an amp meter to the positive wire and it read 0.03A. So, I was assuming that the batteries were not balanced. I connected them to my battery charger and it indicated 65% full which at 13.5V (as identified in the chart at the beginning of this post) seemed way too low. But, in spite of this, I left them charge. After 2 hours, they were at 75%. After four hours (two additional hours) they were still at 75%. At this point I disconnected them from the charger, checked the voltage again and they both read 13.38V but when I connected the amp meter it was reading zero. So, I assumed that in spite of what the charger was telling me (75% charged), at this voltage and no amps moving between the batteries, they must be fully charged (Maybe a bad assumption?).

So, I connected the batteries in series to my MPP unit, turned it on, inputted the settings as listed in this post, switched on the PV and noticed that the PV was charging the batteries (green light was blinking on unit). The batteries voltage was reading 27.2V (or 13.6V per battery in series). Again, I thought this odd since the voltage is in the 100% fully charged range. So I installed the Watch Power software and, sure enough, it is indicating that the batteries are only 60% charged at 27.2V. Any clue what is going on here? Shouldn't they be fully charged? It's odd that both my battery charger and the MPP Solar unit are essentially showing the same thing, i.e., something way less than 100% when they should be at 100%. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My apologies if I'm missing something basic. Kind of still a newbie at this. Thanks.

 

[ender]

Ender, well, my batteries arrived. Just for the heck of it, I checked each one and it read 13.5V. I connected them in parallel and clamped an amp meter to the positive wire and it read 0.03A. So, I was assuming that the batteries were not balanced. I connected them to my battery charger and it indicated 65% full which at 13.5V (as identified in the chart at the beginning of this post) seemed way too low. But, in spite of this, I left them charge. After 2 hours, they were at 75%. After four hours (two additional hours) they were still at 75%. At this point I disconnected them from the charger, checked the voltage again and they both read 13.38V but when I connected the amp meter it was reading zero. So, I assumed that in spite of what the charger was telling me (75% charged), at this voltage and no amps moving between the batteries, they must be fully charged (Maybe a bad assumption?).

So, I connected the batteries in series to my MPP unit, turned it on, inputted the settings as listed in this post, switched on the PV and noticed that the PV was charging the batteries (green light was blinking on unit). The batteries voltage was reading 27.2V (or 13.6V per battery in series). Again, I thought this odd since the voltage is in the 100% fully charged range. So I installed the Watch Power software and, sure enough, it is indicating that the batteries are only 60% charged at 27.2V. Any clue what is going on here? Shouldn't they be fully charged? It's odd that both my battery charger and the MPP Solar unit are essentially showing the same thing, i.e., something way less than 100% when they should be at 100%. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My apologies if I'm missing something basic. Kind of still a newbie at this. Thanks.

I'm confused. The voltage was lower after you charged your battery with your charger (from 13.5V to 13.38V)?

Honestly, this is why unless you have a LiFePo4 specific charger, I would say it's best to use a power supply instead of a charger that was not made for LFP.

As for the MPP Solar unit telling you it's at 60% charge, I haven't hooked mine up yet but from reading the manual, it seems like the MPP Solar fuel gauge is only for AGM batteries and not LFP so I'm not sure I would trust what the fuel gauge on the MPP Solar box says. This is probably why the MPP Solar box and your charger match in terms of fuel gauge showing 60%. They're both probably using AGM profiles for the fuel gauge.

 

[JohnT]

Agree with all points made. I did some more homework and learned that voltage is a terrible way to monitor charge. So, not putting any faith into those initial readings. I do intend to buy a good charger. I noted my battery manufacturer in his one video using an AIMS brand unit. I checked around and they are all on back order no matter where you search online. Probably a China, logistics thing right now. But there's settings for all battery types including LFP. Another person who uses the same MPP unit told me not to put any faith into the "%" reading for the battery as it does use the AGM standard. On a positive note, my system seems to be working well now. It took the better part of two days but the batteries finally stopped charging. The battery icon on the display keeps showing that it is charging but this must be based on the erroneous % level because the middle green light is no longer blinking, and is solid green now which indicates full charge. I checked with my volt meter and the voltage is where it is supposed to be and the amp meter was showing just a fraction of an amp through the battery. So, problem solved, actually no real problem, just needed more patience. Over the next couple of weeks i will tie in my utility and then some loads and followup on here if i run into any problems.

 

[ender]

I would recommend investing in a power supply and not a charger. A power supply is more versatile (can be used for any project) and can accomplish the same thing as a charger.

Also, look into https://solar-assistant.io/. It seems like a relatively new program/monitoring system that uses a Raspberry Pi to communicate to the MPP Solar box via USB. I've already loaded it onto an RPi and once I put my whole system together (still cutting wires and wood) I'll hook it up and it should give a better more accurate fuel gauge as well as serve as a sort of consumption data log.

 

[JohnT]

I would recommend investing in a power supply and not a charger. A power supply is more versatile (can be used for any project) and can accomplish the same thing as a charger.

Also, look into https://solar-assistant.io/. It seems like a relatively new program/monitoring system that uses a Raspberry Pi to communicate to the MPP Solar box via USB. I've already loaded it onto an RPi and once I put my whole system together (still cutting wires and wood) I'll hook it up and it should give a better more accurate fuel gauge as well as serve as a sort of consumption data log.

Thanks for the tips. I will definitely look into a power supply and the software.

 

[mactech]

So, I connected the batteries in series to my MPP unit, turned it on, inputted the settings as listed in this post, switched on the PV and noticed that the PV was charging the batteries (green light was blinking on unit). The batteries voltage was reading 27.2V (or 13.6V per battery in series). Again, I thought this odd since the voltage is in the 100% fully charged range. So I installed the Watch Power software and, sure enough, it is indicating that the batteries are only 60% charged at 27.2V. Any clue what is going on here? Shouldn't they be fully charged? It's odd that both my battery charger and the MPP Solar unit are essentially showing the same thing, i.e., something way less than 100% when they should be at 100%. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My apologies if I'm missing something basic. Kind of still a newbie at this. Thanks.

Changing the Battery cut-off voltage in WatchPower causes the same thing for me, it shows the battery capacity % much lower. The higher the voltage, the lower the % that appears. Mine is set at 21.0 VDC and battery voltage at 26.5v showing 98% with no load.

I have the LV2424 MSD and trying to set the charger profile and determine how to tell it is 100% charged and found this thread.

 

[JohnT]

I'm not putting any faith in the MPP Solar unit's "% charge". Like I said, the green light went solid and i confirmed the high amp charging stopped (just a small trickle charge remained which I've been told is normal) even though the battery icon on the unit's display was still indicating a charge at 50% to 75% battery capacity.

I checked out the website that ender recommended above for the solar assistant and i'm sold. For $167 US, you can get the whole package, RPi, power cord, 32 GB SD card, software and lifetime access to it and upgrades. It transmits the data via wifi, bluetooth, LAN, USB. It's worth checking out.

 

[ender]

I finally got my setup up and running and everything's going smooth so far. The fuel gauge is not accurate but I'm not even looking at it because I know it's wrong and I am now using solar-assistant.io Emulated BMS feature to tell me the correct state of charge.

Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: Depends on your AC circuit. 20a from a 20a circuit is really high. I would set this at 10a since you have all the time in the world to charge.

@iamrich turns out Program 11 is not what you think it is. I had set it to 10A thinking this parameter corresponded to AC Input current but in reality it's DC battery charge current. So a setting of 10A actually ended up being ~2.5A at the AC input to the MPP Solar box (24V x 10A = 240W = 120V x 2A). I bumped this setting back up to 20A and I read ~5A with my clamp meter at the AC Input. Therefore, I can probably bump it all the way up to 40A and still be below the 15A breaker rating for the outlet it's connected to.

The following are the updated values I plan on using based on this new finding:
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 20A (this is actually the DC battery charge current and it equates to ~5A AC Input current)

 

[ender]

Oh also, Solar-Assistant.io is AMAZING!!! Highly recommend it to anyone with an MPP Solar box. Just being able to view and change all the settings on one page on your phone or browser makes everything much easier. Also, all the data and graphs are pretty cool! I'm thinking I may buy a Victron shunt since this software is able to talk to it and figure out SOC that way which is much more accurate. For now I'm using the "Emulated BMS" setting and need to cycle the battery a few times to see how accurate it is.

EDIT: Here's a screenshot of the settings page where you can view and change all the settings of the MPP Solar box

 

[mactech]

Oh also, Solar-Assistant.io is AMAZING!!! Highly recommend it to anyone with an MPP Solar box. Just being able to view and change all the settings on one page on your phone or browser makes everything much easier. Also, all the data and graphs are pretty cool! I'm thinking I may buy a Victron shunt since this software is able to talk to it and figure out SOC that way which is much more accurate. For now I'm using the "Emulated BMS" setting and need to cycle the battery a few times to see how accurate it is.

Thanks for this info. I am running a Raspberry Pi4 just a few feet away to control my telescope in the Observatory.

 

[B.T.]

I finally got my setup up and running and everything's going smooth so far. The fuel gauge is not accurate but I'm not even looking at it because I know it's wrong and I am not using solar-assistant.io Emulated BMS feature to tell me the correct state of charge.



@iamrich turns out Program 11 is not what you think it is. I had set it to 10A thinking this parameter corresponded to AC Input current but in reality it's DC battery charge current. So a setting of 10A actually ended up being ~2.5A at the AC input to the MPP Solar box (24V x 10A = 240W = 120V x 2A). I bumped this setting back up to 20A and I read ~5A with my clamp meter at the AC Input. Therefore, I can probably bump it all the way up to 40A and still be below the 15A breaker rating for the outlet it's connected to.

The following are the updated values I plan on using based on this new finding:
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 20A (this is actually the DC battery charge current and it equates to ~5A AC Input current)

I was contemplating my navel yesterday while out camping and was thinking on this very subject. I thought "How is it that my Honda 2200i can charge my batteries at 30 amps when it is only rated for 10 or 15." And I reached your same conclusion. If you are charging at 30 amps at say 30 volts (rounded off to make the math easy) that is a totally different than getting 30 amps from your generator at 120v. Glad to see a confirmation of my meditation.

 

[B.T.]

Program 02 - Max Charging Current:. I have mine set for 80a (`220ah of battery), but with 2250w of panels, the charging is usually done at less than 20a because the sun isn't up all the way. By the time it is, the batteries are charged. The biggest number I have seen is 46a when the day switched form cloudy to full sun.
Program 05 - Battery Type: USE is good
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: Depends on your AC circuit. 20a from a 20a circuit is really high. I would set this at 10a since you have all the time in the world to charge.
Program 12 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch to utility as source instead of battery: I would set this at 24v. There is not much below 24v power wise, so why push your batteries that low?
Program 13 - Battery Voltage Point where box will switch back to battery from utility as source: 26.5V is ok, but a lot of paid for power instead of free solar charging.
Program 26 - Bulk Charge Voltage (CV Voltage): I run mine at 28v
Program 27 - Floating Charging Voltage: I run mine at 27v
Program 29 - Low DC cut-off Voltage: I run mine at 24v
Program 32 - Bulk Charging Time (CV Stage): I don't have this setting on my hybrid (green version)

I would like to know any thoughts on Program 01 where load priorities are set. I am going to double check tomorrow, but I think I messed with this some time back and did not get the response I wanted. My situation is that I like to run my Honda 2200i on eco mode for fuel efficiency and because it is very quiet. Problem is that the MPP bypasses the inverter when it senses power coming in and so when my little 5000 BTU A/C kicks on the generator revs up momentarily to meet the load. So, I know, I know. I'm not suppose to run the eco mode with something that runs intermittently like an A/C, but so far I've gotten away with it for close to two years. Anyway, the third option, SbU mode, says solar is first priority for running loads, then battery will kick in if solar is not sufficient, then Utility (or in this case, generator) will only kick in when battery is below a certain voltage (which I have set very low). In other words, I'm looking for the batteries and inverter to supply the load and the generator to just stick to charging the batteries which is what the wording in the manual seem to convey. But as memory serves I tried each of the 3 settings and the generator always seemed to surge when the A/C kicks on which makes me think it not working, as least in the way I understand. Any thoughts or experience with this would be greatly appreciated!

 

[iamrich]

@iamrich turns out Program 11 is not what you think it is. I had set it to 10A thinking this parameter corresponded to AC Input current but in reality it's DC battery charge current. So a setting of 10A actually ended up being ~2.5A at the AC input to the MPP Solar box (24V x 10A = 240W = 120V x 2A). I bumped this setting back up to 20A and I read ~5A with my clamp meter at the AC Input. Therefore, I can probably bump it all the way up to 40A and still be below the 15A breaker rating for the outlet it's connected to.

The following are the updated values I plan on using based on this new finding:
Program 11 - Max Utility Charging Current: 20A (this is actually the DC battery charge current and it equates to ~5A AC Input current)

Interesting. It actually makes sense after reading it again. If that is the case you could set it at 60a and still be plenty safe. I think I would still set it low though to avoid unneeded utility charging. If you set it high and your batteries start charging, the utility could in theory fully charge your batteries before the sun comes up, which would kill all your free power the next day.

Sorry for misleading you on that one.

 

[B.T.]

Interesting. It actually makes sense after reading it again. If that is the case you could set it at 60a and still be plenty safe. I think I would still set it low though to avoid unneeded utility charging. If you set it high and your batteries start charging, the utility could in theory fully charge your batteries before the sun comes up, which would kill all your free power the next day.

Sorry for misleading you on that one.

It is interesting, and I think important information. But I would not be hasty to go to 60A because I did one day when I was in a rush to top off my batteries before going boondocking and I wound up with melted plugs. In fact, even when I bump my MPP 2424LV up to charge at 30A the plug gets a bit warm. I have found that at 20A everything seems to be just fine. So it amazes me when I see folks saying "40A for every battery" or some such thing. I don't know the technicalities of the process, and I could be wrong, but I think if you start bumping the amperage up to 60, 80 or even 100A you could wind up with some very unpleasant and unexpected results. (My system: MPP 2424LV with 10ga cable handling the AC in and out, SOK 12V 100aH x 6, Renogy 100W panels 3S2P, Honda 2200i.) It's all a learning process and I'm glad to have a forum like this to glean all the info I can and hopefully continue to refine my system.