Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48

[Prefersdirt]

How many watts or amps will it pull from a grid or generator 120v connection? Its missing on the specs. for this and the 3000 model.

Looks like you can tell it to pull up to 120A.

 

[PeSCaLo]

Hi @RichardfromEG4
Im planning to use this as a UPS for a server room. Will it prevent the shutdown of the servers when the grid goes down?

 

[rhino]

Hi @RichardfromEG4
Im planning to use this as a UPS for a server room. Will it prevent the shutdown of the servers when the grid goes down?

It has AC input and a "UPS" function that will transfer over to battery if AC/utility power goes down. The spec sheet shows 20ms transfer time or less which is typical. The manual is also available on this page so you can review it to see how it would be connected.

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

Hi @RichardfromEG4
Im planning to use this as a UPS for a server room. Will it prevent the shutdown of the servers when the grid goes down?

ls long as you have sufficient stored power or sunlight, and you measure the output to make sure it exceeds required usage, it should without issues.

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

What batteries is it compatible with?

There are multiple comm protocols built in, but for our purposes we recommend the EG4 brand batteries.

 

[Bluedog225]

There are multiple comm protocols built in, but for our purposes we recommend the EG4 brand batteries.

Can you give us some more detail here?

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

Can you give us some more detail here?

There are multiple settings for battery type: AGM, User Defined (input own voltages), Pylontech, WECO, Soltaro, Lib Protocol, a setting as a 'catch-all' for Lithium batteries, and then obviously the EG4 setting for our own batteries. As far as making them work settings wise, it's a little outside what we directly assist with but those are all available settings for the battery type.

 

[Bluedog225]

I understand you guys may be a little gun-shy on this. But there are only 4-6 brands of server rack batteries that make the majority of the field. And if your deep dive into buying inverters is any guide, you may already own them.

I’m not going out on a limb for this inverter until I can be assured that it works (and communicates )with my SOKs (arriving monday).

Not a criticism, but I do want you guys to have a home run with this.

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

I understand you guys may be a little gun-shy on this. But there are only 4-6 brands of server rack batteries that make the majority of the field. And if your deep dive into buying inverters is any guide, you may already own them.

I’m not going out on a limb for this inverter until I can be assured that it works (and communicates )with my SOKs (arriving monday).

Not a criticism, but I do want you guys to have a home run with this.

I don't actually have a SOK battery on the ground. Looking at their documentation, they communicate over RS465 using Pylontech. PINs appear to be:

Pylontech Inverter / SK48v100 Pinout Table
Function	Pylontech	SK48v100
GND	Pin 6	Pin 8
RS485A	Pin 7	Pin 5
RS485B	Pin 8	Pin 3

Our inverter support Pylontech so I would assume this would work (these settings match MPP which also uses these same settings and has the same baseline manufacturer). I'll make sure we don't have one on the ground, and if we do I'll test it. If not I'll see what we can do (or maybe @Will Prowse can run this test for all those interested). It's a 1 way cord so it would need to be plugged in the correct spots - same as the one we put with the system.

 

[bones1]

My luck is that you going to come out with a "low frequency" inverter next week thats even a better deal... . Oh well, this one still can handle the surges of my AC and table saw.

Do you think two will run a deep well pump without any trouble?.

 

[robby]

Regarding UL listings - UL 1973 is not sufficient for residential battery installation if your state is on the 2018 IRC. Section R327.2 of the 2018 IRC states that energy storage systems (ESS) be Listed (Certified) to UL 9540, meaning the combined battery and inverter (ESS) have undergone fire testing under UL 9540A.

Can you explain that in a little more detail and is there a list of states on the 2018 IRC?

 

[Subdood]

I look for Will's vids just about every day and saw his review of this unit. Yes, it seems to be a beefier version of the other 6548's, but at $1300, it's hard to pass on something like this. I'm about to pick up an EG-4 5.12kwh Lifepower rack battery, so this would be a good combo. I'm also working on getting ten 440W Longi bifacials for my PV array as well.

I had almost pulled the trigger on a Sungoldpower 6kw split phase unit, but they are now on a shipping delay until mid June. Since I'm looking to power all 120V devices in my home, the split phase 6kw doesn't make much sense, because the lowest power 240v device in the house is our 3.8kw water heater. So, that wouldn't leave much power for anything else.

I had been calculating my wire and breaker sizes, and have figured what to use for the battery and inverter output, but am confused about what sized wire/breaker for the input for the inverter. The manual for this EG4 inverter says 4 gauge wire would be sufficient, but what would be the max current it would pull? I'm looking at running all 120V devices from a subpanel powered by the inverter, but I also want to use the grid to charge the batts/power the loads (bypass mode) if need be. I may get another of the 5.12kwh batteries later, so I need to take charging two of these into account. The max charging current for two would be max of 120A according to the inverter specs. @RichardfromEG4, could you pls comment on this question? Would a single pole 60A breaker be sufficient in this case? Thanks.

 

[raurre]

I don't actually have a SOK battery on the ground. Looking at their documentation, they communicate over RS465 using Pylontech. PINs appear to be:

Function	Pylontech	SK48v100
Pylontech Inverter / SK48v100 Pinout Table
GND	Pin 6	Pin 8
RS485A	Pin 7	Pin 5
RS485B	Pin 8	Pin 3

Our inverter support Pylontech so I would assume this would work (these settings match MPP which also uses these same settings and has the same baseline manufacturer). I'll make sure we don't have one on the ground, and if we do I'll test it. If not I'll see what we can do (or maybe @Will Prowse can run this test for all those interested). It's a 1 way cord so it would need to be plugged in the correct spots - same as the one we put with the system.

Can these units communicate with MPP LV5648 if you want to double your output capacity?

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

Can these units communicate with MPP LV5648 if you want to double your output capacity?

They have a different firmware so no. Do not try this.

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

I look for Will's vids just about every day and saw his review of this unit. Yes, it seems to be a beefier version of the other 6548's, but at $1300, it's hard to pass on something like this. I'm about to pick up an EG-4 5.12kwh Lifepower rack battery, so this would be a good combo. I'm also working on getting ten 440W Longi bifacials for my PV array as well.

I had almost pulled the trigger on a Sungoldpower 6kw split phase unit, but they are now on a shipping delay until mid June. Since I'm looking to power all 120V devices in my home, the split phase 6kw doesn't make much sense, because the lowest power 240v device in the house is our 3.8kw water heater. So, that wouldn't leave much power for anything else.

I had been calculating my wire and breaker sizes, and have figured what to use for the battery and inverter output, but am confused about what sized wire/breaker for the input for the inverter. The manual for this EG4 inverter says 4 gauge wire would be sufficient, but what would be the max current it would pull? I'm looking at running all 120V devices from a subpanel powered by the inverter, but I also want to use the grid to charge the batts/power the loads (bypass mode) if need be. I may get another of the 5.12kwh batteries later, so I need to take charging two of these into account. The max charging current for two would be max of 120A according to the inverter specs. @RichardfromEG4, could you pls comment on this question? Would a single pole 60A breaker be sufficient in this case? Thanks.

For the AC input? 4AWG is the recommended size. It's rated above the limits of the inverter (unless you plan on running hundreds of feet).

 

[copec]

Regarding UL listings - UL 1973 is not sufficient for residential battery installation if your state is on the 2018 IRC. Section R327.2 of the 2018 IRC states that energy storage systems (ESS) be Listed (Certified) to UL 9540, meaning the combined battery and inverter (ESS) have undergone fire testing under UL 9540A.

We just need like 30 <1kw battery systems connected together ?

 

[Subdood]

For the AC input? 4AWG is the recommended size. It's rated above the limits of the inverter (unless you plan on running hundreds of feet).

Thanks. Yes, AC input. Ok with the 4 gauge, but what sized breaker for my main panel? What's the max input current draw? Also, I assume since this is a single phase 120V input/output I would need a single pole breaker?

One more question- I may have about a 50ft run between the input and output (sub) panel and the inverter. So, would I need to up the wire to 2 gauge?

Thanks again.

 

[Clifton]

These are HF inverters. Is there a published surge rating? I would need 2 units for split phase 240V output, so if I buy 2 inverters and match them with 3 or 4 Lifepower4 rack mount batteries, can they start a large HVAC condensing unit...say 55A inrush at 240VAC?

To be safe, use a soft start on it. That's what I did for a 3.5 ton a/c.

 

[Prefersdirt]

I also just realized ... its 120amp max PV charging current. Is that per MPPT controller (2 MPPT per unit = 240amp) or is it 120amp for the entire unit?

If its per unit, then It's better to do 4k per unit. With all 8k on a single 6500EX, then only about 6K can ever be used to charge the batteries ..and if I am not using 2K for loads, then its wasted power.

(I'm running the numbers so I can size my fuses/breakers/wire correctly).

To be safe, use a soft start on it. That's what I did for a 3.5 ton a/c.

This is what I want to do to our AC

 

[koppted]

To be safe, use a soft start on it. That's what I did for a 3.5 ton a/c.

Any idea how easy this is to do, or do I need to get an electrician so he could charge me an arm and a leg?