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Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48

Question regarding the N/G bond...

In Will's video he mentions that unless you are running in UPS mode, you can feed a typical transfer switch and not worry about it. However, this implies the unit will never switch over to AC Input if the battery voltage drops too low. Or, is he referring to having no AC Input connected?
 
Thanks. Yes, AC input. Ok with the 4 gauge, but what sized breaker for my main panel? What's the max input current draw? Also, I assume since this is a single phase 120V input/output I would need a single pole breaker?

One more question- I may have about a 50ft run between the input and output (sub) panel and the inverter. So, would I need to up the wire to 2 gauge?

Thanks again.
I'd have to look at drop off on wire diameter, but 50 feet doesn't seem like enough to warrant that.
 
I'd have to look at drop off on wire diameter, but 50 feet doesn't seem like enough to warrant that.
Don't want to take the thread off topic, but y'all were working on your battery communication with MPP's system. Since I already bought the MPP Inverter, trying to decide on batteries. Was wondering if you are still working on it or did you give up on it?
 
Don't want to take the thread off topic, but y'all were working on your battery communication with MPP's system. Since I already bought the MPP Inverter, trying to decide on batteries. Was wondering if you are still working on it or did you give up on it?
I'm not sure if the tech bench has continued testing on this as we were rolling out our own inverter. I do know that we went the extra step to make the comms on our inverter to batteries seamless, and we are always trying to develop this but to date I don't think it's completed.
 
I don't actually have a SOK battery on the ground. Looking at their documentation, they communicate over RS465 using Pylontech. PINs appear to be:
Pylontech Inverter / SK48v100 Pinout Table
FunctionPylontechSK48v100
GNDPin 6Pin 8
RS485APin 7Pin 5
RS485BPin 8Pin 3

Our inverter support Pylontech so I would assume this would work (these settings match MPP which also uses these same settings and has the same baseline manufacturer). I'll make sure we don't have one on the ground, and if we do I'll test it. If not I'll see what we can do (or maybe @Will Prowse can run this test for all those interested). It's a 1 way cord so it would need to be plugged in the correct spots - same as the one we put with the system.
They are both Voltronix inverters, and based on this table both using the same pinouts. In addition to Richard, I also suspect the support would be there, and I could test on Will's inverters. We (CurrentConnected) are in contact with the OEM and can have our acquisition rep in China dig deeper.

Would be nice if they did play fair!
 
I'd have to look at drop off on wire diameter, but 50 feet doesn't seem like enough to warrant that.
Ok thanks.

And what would the max input current be? Sorry to keep asking, but I need to know what sized breaker for the unit to plug into my main panel. My guess was a single pole 60A breaker based on the unit's output power. Thank you.
 
Question regarding the N/G bond...

In Will's video he mentions that unless you are running in UPS mode, you can feed a typical transfer switch and not worry about it. However, this implies the unit will never switch over to AC Input if the battery voltage drops too low. Or, is he referring to having no AC Input connected?

To clarify... I'm not really concerned necessarily with what Will was referring to. But, if this unit has a capability to charge from AC Input, but not actually switch over to AC PassThrough
 
To clarify... I'm not really concerned necessarily with what Will was referring to. But, if this unit has a capability to charge from AC Input, but not actually switch over to AC PassThrough
We are going to set this up and I'm going to manually check N/G bond in multiple configs just to test - right now there's a lot on the bench but it will be done soon.
 
@RichardfromEG4 , on this inverter's page on the SS site, they recommend two different breakers. One is an IMO DC disconnect for a 2 string panel array. The other is an DC breaker (Nader 60V 200A). Where would this device go in a system? Is it a breaker to put in between the inverter and batteries? If so, wouldn't the 125A breakers in the EG4 rack battery be sufficient for that task?
 
@RichardfromEG4 , on this inverter's page on the SS site, they recommend two different breakers. One is an IMO DC disconnect for a 2 string panel array. The other is an DC breaker (Nader 60V 200A). Where would this device go in a system? Is it a breaker to put in between the inverter and batteries? If so, wouldn't the breakers in the EG4 rack battery be sufficient for that task?
The IMO is a PV string disconnect. It's a manual switch that will turn off PV to your system and is generally required, especially if you are trying to install in an area that has any regulations at all. The other is a breaker for the battery input for each inverter. The IMO disconnect would go between solar panels and your inverter. The DC breaker would go between your battery and inverter. I have my team building a little demo workstation that I will show this stuff off.
 
The IMO is a PV string disconnect. It's a manual switch that will turn off PV to your system and is generally required, especially if you are trying to install in an area that has any regulations at all. The other is a breaker for the battery input for each inverter. The IMO disconnect would go between solar panels and your inverter. The DC breaker would go between your battery and inverter. I have my team building a little demo workstation that I will show this stuff off.
Please make this demo with multiple inverters (240) and multiple battery banks (act like its two racks of batteries), and not just a simple 1 battery 1 inverter setup. And make sure that your demo takes into account any surge capabilities of the inverter and also limits of the BMS.

It's a lot of moving parts. But it's better to show a demo of the "worst case" that can later be scaled back than a "minimal" setup that leaves open the "what if" questions.
 
Please make this demo with multiple inverters (240) and multiple battery banks (act like its two racks of batteries), and not just a simple 1 battery 1 inverter setup. And make sure that your demo takes into account any surge capabilities of the inverter and also limits of the BMS.

It's a lot of moving parts. But it's better to show a demo of the "worst case" that can later be scaled back than a "minimal" setup that leaves open the "what if" questions.
This is a good idea. I rarely see short term surge testing that exceeds the continuous rating of inverters and batteries. The specs always look great until you try it in the real world and it doesn't work as expected. Maybe test a large HVAC condenser for inrush spikes.
 
Please make this demo with multiple inverters (240) and multiple battery banks (act like its two racks of batteries), and not just a simple 1 battery 1 inverter setup. And make sure that your demo takes into account any surge capabilities of the inverter and also limits of the BMS.

It's a lot of moving parts. But it's better to show a demo of the "worst case" that can later be scaled back than a "minimal" setup that leaves open the "what if" questions.
This is our plan.
 
This is a good idea. I rarely see short term surge testing that exceeds the continuous rating of inverters and batteries. The specs always look great until you try it in the real world and it doesn't work as expected. Maybe test a large HVAC condenser for inrush spikes.
I'll see what we can set up for a load that has high inrush.
 
Any idea how easy this is to do, or do I need to get an electrician so he could charge me an arm and a leg?
If you are DIYing solar, it's just as easy. Signiture Solar sells them too but I used a Micro-Air easy start. They have some a/c wiring listed, go to their sire and look up "support" and wiring diagrams. I just printed it and compared to my diagram that was behind my panel.
 
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