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New Lux Power LXP-LB-US 12k / GSL-H-12KLV-US with 200A AC Passthrough Current (US Market)

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Would a 200amp double throw transfer switch say at the house after the meter not work one position one the power comes from meter to switch to inverter position two it goes grid to main house panel??? Then a simple 200 amp breaker between the inverter and main panel???
I re-read your posting a couple of times but i can not make sense of it ;-) [disclaimer: English not my first language]
 
Would a 200amp double throw transfer switch say at the house after the meter not work one position one the power comes from meter to switch to inverter position two it goes grid to main house panel??? Then a simple 200 amp breaker between the inverter and main panel???
it would work, but you are not making use of the built-in 200A auto-transfer switch, and you would have to move all your circuit to a new essential load panel, a non-trivial effort
 
it would work, but you are not making use of the built-in 200A auto-transfer switch, and you would have to move all your circuit to a new essential load panel, a non-trivial effort
See I had to reread the cut sheet I missed the built in transfer switch!!!
 
This seems like growatts comparable unit if im reading right the battery options are quite limited with the growatt??? But look at Growatts pricing Im missing something because growatt is like 1500 bucks??? Vs gsl 3200???
The Growatt is not comparable. First of all its a 240V single-phase inverter not a 240V split-phase inverter. That makes it a completely different installation requiring an isolation transformer. That's another $1500 at least plus tax and shipping. The isolation transformer would need to be at least 15kVA or higher and would weigh over 300 pounds. Freight shipping would cost at least $300. So you are at least $2000 more to make the Growatt work. Then as others have mentioned already it is only 10kW and doesn't have the 200A passthrough that the GSL inverter has which is its primary advantage over all other inverter brands other than Sol-Ark.
 
the challenge here is to break in between the live meter & your 200A breakers to insert the new hybrid, without calling your util company
 
the challenge here is to break in between the live meter & your 200A breakers to insert the new hybrid, without calling your util company
You don't have a breaker on your meter? Must be very old then?
Edit: Sorry I misunderstood, and now see you were answering not asking.
 
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Would a 200amp double throw transfer switch say at the house after the meter not work one position one the power comes from meter to switch to inverter position two it goes grid to main house panel??? Then a simple 200 amp breaker between the inverter and main panel???
If you are trying to support bypassing the inverter if the inverter fails, then you need a manual or automatic transfer switch in front of the inverter. Using breakers is not legal and you can misconfigure them to both be on at the same time. That is why a transfer switch is required. It would allow you to power directly from the grid bypassing the inverter completely, or to go only through the inverter.
 
You don't have a breaker on your meter? Must be very old then?
Edit: Sorry I misunderstood, and now see you were answering not asking.
Most homes until very recently do not have a breaker between the meter and the main panels breaker.
 
Most homes until very recently do not have a breaker between the meter and the main panels breaker.
The reason I am surprised is that my house is 24 years old and has always had a breaker (external disconnect). It is built into the meter box. My father's house is over 30 years old and has the same.

Edit: Sorry bad math. My house is over 34 years old and my father's is over 40 years old. Lost a decade there.
 
The reason I am surprised is that my house is 24 years old and has always had a breaker (external disconnect). It is built into the meter box. My father's house is over 30 years old and has the same.
It’s a good idea, just not required till recently and many areas haven’t adopted the new codes
 
Ok I have another question does this unit
the challenge here is to break in between the live meter & your 200A breakers to insert the new hybrid, without calling your util company
Hire an electrician to put a disconnect on your side of the meter then it's no problem and no ones business why you want a disconnect it's simply for safety...
 
If you are trying to support bypassing the inverter if the inverter fails, then you need a manual or automatic transfer switch in front of the inverter. Using breakers is not legal and you can misconfigure them to both be on at the same time. That is why a transfer switch is required. It would allow you to power directly from the grid bypassing the inverter completely, or to go only through the inverter.
Yeah I thought about it all day off and on and came to same conclusion I think a manual one is appropriate because if the inverter fails seems manual intervention is appropriate I guess an automatic would work if inverter lost all power but what about a partial failure etc??? BUT OUCH 200 amp manual transfer switches are crazy expensive!!!! Unless Im looking at the wrong thing!!!
 
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Yeah I thought about it all day off and on and came to same conclusion I think a manual one is appropriate because if the inverter fails seems manual intervention is appropriate I guess an automatic would work if inverter lost all power but what about a partial failure etc??? BUT OUCH 200 amp manual transfer switches are crazy expensive!!!! Unless Im looking at the wrong thing!!!
given that the inverter failure should be a rare event, if ever, a simple 2-wire double-pole 200A breaker can bypass the inverter. No need for an auto transfer
 
Yeah I thought about it all day off and on and came to same conclusion I think a manual one is appropriate because if the inverter fails seems manual intervention is appropriate I guess an automatic would work if inverter lost all power but what about a partial failure etc??? BUT OUCH 200 amp manual transfer switches are crazy expensive!!!! Unless Im looking at the wrong thing!!!
To provide a bypass around the inverter is going to be more complex and expensive than you think. You have to provide two ways for the utility power to get to your main load center. That means a panel to split the grid input, and a switch to select which input goes to the load center. The switch can be a double-pole double-throw switch or two breakers with an interlock (in red below). Most interlock kits are for generator inputs and disable the main panel breaker, so you have to find a double pole breaker interlock that just works on the two breakers. I have used the transfer switch in the past since they are easier to find and cost about the same. You can also use an automatic transfer switch if you can afford it so that if the inverter stops working it will switch automatically (not really worth it). If you only have a 100A service then everything only needs to be rated for 100A and that can be significantly less expensive. A generator can be added as well. You would add a generator panel with interlock between the meter and the first panel, or you would connect the generator directly into the inverter's generator input to auto start and stop under the control of the inverter.

Here are two options:

1666367418981.png

A couple of additional notes on the diagram. If you use breakers for the switch, you must use an interlock. If you don't know what an interlock is, then don't use breakers. If you don't, you will fry your inverter if both breakers are on. You cannot feed the inverter output with grid power. The interlocked breakers are back-fed breakers. That means that power is coming into the panel through those breakers rather than out from the panel through those breakers. I made them red to indicate that. The NEC defines rules around the use of back-fed breakers. One of them is that they must be bolted into the panel with an approved breaker bracket so that they don't accidentally pop out and hurt or kill someone. They also require a label that alerts people to the fact that they are back fed breakers. Another is the rating of the panel bus. You must follow all of the rules around this. If you don't know what you are doing you need to get an electrician to do the work.
 
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Ok ive bee n kicking this around my panel is significantly oversized for my use so I have one mamy open spaces and two plenty of reserve power... So attaching a VERY preliminary sketch for the GSL inverter... Now Im a pretty experienced DIYer but new to solar so be gentle tlol

Why cant I feed the 200amp pass through from the main panel using a 150 amp breaker??? And add ct clamps between the main panel feed in and meter???

My goal with this system is initially to offset by power bill using as much solar as I can during day and ability for inverter to back me up in long term power failure during day initially.. battery less currently due to financial constraints but will eventually get the gsl batteries...
 
To provide a bypass around the inverter is going to be more complex and expensive than you think. You have to provide two ways for the utility power to get to your main load center. That means a panel to split the grid input, and a switch to select which input goes to the load center. The switch can be a double-pole double-throw switch or two breakers with an interlock (in red below). Most interlock kits are for generator inputs and disable the main panel breaker, so you have to find a double pole breaker interlock that just works on the two breakers. I have used the transfer switch in the past since they are easier to find and cost about the same. You can also use an automatic transfer switch if you can afford it so that if the inverter stops working it will switch automatically (not really worth it). If you only have a 100A service then everything only needs to be rated for 100A and that can be significantly less expensive. A generator can be added as well. You would add a generator panel with interlock between the meter and the first panel, or you would connect the generator directly into the inverter's generator input to auto start and stop under the control of the inverter.

Here are two options:

View attachment 117259
I like this it's what I was thinking Id need.. I appreciate all the feedback!!!
 
It comes down to....do you trust this inverter or not ?
IF it is made with the exact same quality and QA as the Sol-arks then yes, trust it.
If not, prepare a quick and easy method to go around it if it blows up.
 
It comes down to....do you trust this inverter or not ?
IF it is made with the exact same quality and QA as the Sol-arks then yes, trust it.
If not, prepare a quick and easy method to go around it if it blows up.
Mine should arrive today. I am looking forward to install it and play with it over the weekend
 
It comes down to....do you trust this inverter or not ?
IF it is made with the exact same quality and QA as the Sol-arks then yes, trust it.
If not, prepare a quick and easy method to go around it if it blows up.
Agreed.

My (3) 5KW GT inverters system have worked flawlessly for over 3 years. I have heard so many bad reviews about all the problems with the hybrid inverter systems that I was paranoid about switching. At first, I wanted to install the new hybrid inverter with the existing GT inverters AC coupled, so that I could throw a few switches and take the hybrid inverter off-line until fixed, and go back using the original GT inverters system. As you said, "I wanted a quick and easy method to go around it, if it blows up."

After joining DIY Solar Forum in early September, my perspective has slowly changed. I have learned a little more about solar energy systems and how they work. I have read reviews from other DIY members about their hybrid installations. After about 6 weeks of confusion and going around in circles, I finally ordered two hybrid inverters.
 
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