diy solar

diy solar

Compress or not, flexible busbar or not

7075 has the highest tensile strength. I'll go with 6mm plates. If the cells manage to bend it then it is probably time for new cells. Or at least this is the impression I'm getting after going over the full thread.
7075 is the strongest, stiffest and machines very nice. It can’t be bent, if attempted it will fracture or be very compromised. Welding shouldn’t be attempted because it’s very likely to crack. It also has the highest corrosion potential because of the high zinc content which is also the thing that makes it weld terrible. I use it as a stiffener inside the bottom of plastic battery boxes with a few layers of Kapton tape so cells don’t sag and shift. Stiffer and cheaper than carbon fiber for dimensions, but heavier. On average I convert 30 pounds of the stuff into chips a day making parts from billet. I love how it machines, just sprays away, never gums up the tool.
 
Eve specifies 3/8" (9mm) for end plates. That said, I also used 1/4" (6mm).
The specification is for 10mm:

3.3. Testing Clamp Preparation
The single cell needs to be clamped with steel splints or aluminum alloy splints (thickness: 10 mm). The splints
need to cover the large surface of the cell. The splints are fixed with 6 M6 bolts. All sides of the splints need to be
covered with insulating film
 
And nobody complains from 3/4" plywood. But I suspect that it may sag with time.

I'll check on Monday the prices for 7075 sheets and if they are sane - I'll go with it. If not - with plywood. The reason why I'm expecting high a price is that I'll likely have to buy a 150cm x 21cm piece and the prices have gone crazy around since the war in Ukraine started.
 
And nobody complains from 3/4" plywood. But I suspect that it may sag with time.

Yes 3/4” Sande or Radiata pine plywood will bend in less than a month, however laminating an additional layer of 1/2” is enough to keep the bulge/flex less than .015”. Use Radiata pine from Loews because the veneer is thicker than the Sande pine.
 
I'm in east Europe. What I can get here is birch plywood. If I'm reading it correctly it is stronger than the radiata pine one.
 
I'm in east Europe. What I can get here is birch plywood. If I'm reading it correctly it is stronger than the radiata pine one.
Yes it’s very strong. Solid birch is what many modeler make their main wing spars from. It’s not cheap here. What the different internal plies are made from and quality of adhesives is always a concern of what ever you buy anywhere. Some years ago I bought marine grade plywood and I had drops left out in the rain over the weekend. When I was cleaning up, I noticed the glue had delaminated! Talking to other builders I found out that in order to make it more environmentally friendly they had gone to another adhesive and hadn’t tested it enough. Glad it wasn’t for a boat hull.
 
I'm in east Europe. What I can get here is birch plywood. If I'm reading it correctly it is stronger than the radiata pine one.
In East Europe alu prices are now insane!!
And I just found one local seller selling 10mm sheets... 1500x2000mm !!
Where are you located?
How are prices around your place?
 
In the UK I bought 200mm x 10mm Aluminium Flat Bar - 800mm length, and it was £48. Prices here have gotten ridiculous, my build has cost far more than I thought it would.
 
For those in Europe, I noticed this catalog:

pg. 54, spring # 61162
For those wanting to use M6 and 6 rods on a single LF280k row:
Size 51mm
Rate 128/mm
Compressed at 5,1mm -> 653N
Compressed at 6,1mm -> 783N

Seems fine to my inexperienced eye.
It will make
- 490N compressed at 3,8mm (around 12psi)
- 694N compressed at 5,4mm (around 17psi)

I'm considering it for an 8 cells row, though still searching for more options.

Opinions?

PS: Even so, I'm still a bit reluctant in using springs, given the datasheet does not show the use of any in their testing procedures!!! Just fixed rods compressing to 300kgf at 30% - 40% SOC
 
Where are you located?
How are prices around your place?
Bulgaria. They were insane in May. I'll get my quotes on Monday for the ALU 7075 plates. I may go for steel if they are too high or just go with the plywood.

For the springs - I built a 12V/105Ah in May this year. Back then I did research on where can I get springs from. I ended up with a cheap construction store selling many springs. No load ratings on them, but I got a few that were looking good and tests confirmed that they are good to go. Outer diameter is 15mm, inner is 10mm. The cheap ones are less than a dollar, and the expensive ones (certified, with load ratings) are 8-15 dollars (depending on what you choose).
 
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For those in Europe, I noticed this catalog:

pg. 54, spring # 61162
For those wanting to use M6 and 6 rods on a single LF280k row:
Size 51mm
Rate 128/mm
Compressed at 5,1mm -> 653N
Compressed at 6,1mm -> 783N

Seems fine to my inexperienced eye.
It will make
- 490N compressed at 3,8mm (around 12psi)
- 694N compressed at 5,4mm (around 17psi)

I'm considering it for an 8 cells row, though still searching for more options.

Opinions?

PS: Even so, I'm still a bit reluctant in using springs, given the datasheet does not show the use of any in their testing procedures!!! Just fixed rods compressing to 300kgf at 30% - 40% SOC

Not using springs in compression fixture. Just using yellow pine wood 1 inch x 10 inch cut to length and four 1/4 inch course threaded rods with 1/4 inch nuts & washers on the 8s Lifepo4 battery banks.

This is Info I used and torqued a little less at 5 Inch Pounds with a torque wrench at about 3.2 to 3.3 volts charge in each cell.

The spec from EVE was 300 KG force which rounds off to 660lbs. Battery face is approx 6.85"x 7.874" = 53.94 sq inches
660lbs/53.94sqin=12.23 lbs per sq inch
Divide 660 by 4 bolts that's 165 lbs Axial (clamping) force per bolt.
Using 4 course 1/4 in threaded rods that should equate to roughly 8 INCH pounds torque per bolt. Realistically, that's a snug twist of the wrist on a regular nut driver for the average build mechanic.
 
Bonjour @oliagri
Merci pour ce tableau.

je n'ai pas bien compris :
a) quelle est l'unité de mesure à l'intérieur des tableaux ? kgf ? N ?
b) Je ne comprends pas comment un ressort plus gros peut produire moins de force
c) quelle est la compression à laquelle il atteindra la force maximale spécifiée

Avez-vous plus d'infos sur ceux-ci ?

Merci d'avance
Bonjour,
a : l'unité utilisée est le kgf (comme indiqué en bas du tableau)
b : à longueur égale un gros ressort a toujours plus de force qu'un petit (plus un ressort est long moins il faut de force pour la pastille d'un mm)
c : les efforts indiqués correspondent à une compression d'un mm. la compression n'est pas complètement linéaire. Je n'ai pas d'informations supplémentaires mais après avoir testé la force augmente légèrement au fil de la compression
 

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This has got to be the most inane thread I have ever witnessed on this Forum.

Apologies to any poor newbies that have wandered into this morass this deep, but I’m out…
I'm still going to read it to the end, I've come so far.
 
I have watched all Andy's videos, but I wasn't convinced no compression was the correct way to go, so I compressed with foam and used flexible busbars.
 
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