diy solar

diy solar

New 10kw NHX AIO From Watts247

Need to think things through as I am wanting to prepare to sell back to grid but also want to have power to the house when the grid fails. The scenario goes something like this. There is a central meter pedestal that used to supply power to a mobile home and shop. The mobile home is no longer used and those lugs are now feeding the new house, that is approximately 100' from the pedestal, with a 200amp service, while the other lugs on the pedestal still feed the shop which sets about 30' in the opposite direction, with a 100amp service.

All solar gear resides and will remain in the shop.

With SolArk, the main lugs of the pedestal could be ran to the shop, which requires feeder wire size be increased to handle the 200amp service. The SolArk would feed a main panel in the shop, with one breaker in that main panel feeding a shop subpanel, while the rest of the power goes to the house. This would be a new home run also requiring 200amp feeder cable. The ct's would be placed in front of the main panel to allow the SolArk to back feed any excess to the grid. In this manner, if the grid goes down the SolArk stops feeding the grid but the house and shop remained powered.

With something like the NHX 10k or SRNE10k ... No new feeder wires are needed. The unit will feed power to the shop from output Load1 and push excess back to the grid, but when grid goes down, so does power to the house.

Am I cooking with gas or lost???
 
Need to think things through as I am wanting to prepare to sell back to grid but also want to have power to the house when the grid fails. The scenario goes something like this. There is a central meter pedestal that used to supply power to a mobile home and shop. The mobile home is no longer used and those lugs are now feeding the new house, that is approximately 100' from the pedestal, with a 200amp service, while the other lugs on the pedestal still feed the shop which sets about 30' in the opposite direction, with a 100amp service.

All solar gear resides and will remain in the shop.

With SolArk, the main lugs of the pedestal could be ran to the shop, which requires feeder wire size be increased to handle the 200amp service. The SolArk would feed a main panel in the shop, with one breaker in that main panel feeding a shop subpanel, while the rest of the power goes to the house. This would be a new home run also requiring 200amp feeder cable. The ct's would be placed in front of the main panel to allow the SolArk to back feed any excess to the grid. In this manner, if the grid goes down the SolArk stops feeding the grid but the house and shop remained powered.

With something like the NHX 10k or SRNE10k ... No new feeder wires are needed. The unit will feed power to the shop from output Load1 and push excess back to the grid, but when grid goes down, so does power to the house.

Am I cooking with gas or lost???
This one is more similar to the solark. It has a biderectional grid input/output and a backup output.

Why do you need new feeder wires with a solark?
 
Need to think things through as I am wanting to prepare to sell back to grid but also want to have power to the house when the grid fails. The scenario goes something like this. There is a central meter pedestal that used to supply power to a mobile home and shop. The mobile home is no longer used and those lugs are now feeding the new house, that is approximately 100' from the pedestal, with a 200amp service, while the other lugs on the pedestal still feed the shop which sets about 30' in the opposite direction, with a 100amp service.

All solar gear resides and will remain in the shop.

With SolArk, the main lugs of the pedestal could be ran to the shop, which requires feeder wire size be increased to handle the 200amp service. The SolArk would feed a main panel in the shop, with one breaker in that main panel feeding a shop subpanel, while the rest of the power goes to the house. This would be a new home run also requiring 200amp feeder cable. The ct's would be placed in front of the main panel to allow the SolArk to back feed any excess to the grid. In this manner, if the grid goes down the SolArk stops feeding the grid but the house and shop remained powered.

With something like the NHX 10k or SRNE10k ... No new feeder wires are needed. The unit will feed power to the shop from output Load1 and push excess back to the grid, but when grid goes down, so does power to the house.

Am I cooking with gas or lost???
I'm not sure on the W247 NHX.
I haven't used the grid sell back feature on my ASF. The only way I know the power is out is if I hear my neighbors generator.
Make sure your provider approves whatever unit you choose to sell back... Some have a list of approved models.
 
I'm not sure on the W247 NHX.
I haven't used the grid sell back feature on my ASF. The only way I know the power is out is if I hear my neighbors generator.
Make sure your provider approves whatever unit you choose to sell back... Some have a list of approved models.
Your srne can sell back to the grid?
 
Ian has a video up on the NHX inverter. I need that solar awning as well.
Thanks for posting this. I appreciate that the video showed some grid interactive features but I still think the focus was a little too much on off grid capability when the real market for this should be retrofit applications and grid interactivity.

I would like to see
-how this unit ac couples to an existing grid tie system
-how it uses the battery to reduce grid use on the input side while still supplying the output side.( Grid support and peak shave)
-how the zero export features work.
- selling from battery to grid (many pocos pay for this during high demand time)

I hope we see a follow up video. It may be a megarevo but it looks like it's a working megarevo. I'm not going to write this one off just yet and if we get clarity I could see myself buying one
 
Where electricity goes for dummies please.

Graphic from the NHX manual linked from Watts247: When configured like this the nhx can feed both home loads and grid, and it does this by bumping up the hz a small amount above grid value. Where does the excess power the nhx feeds past the ct's go; grid, home, both and how is this determined?

x
1708780366244.png
 
Where electricity goes for dummies please.

Graphic from the NHX manual linked from Watts247: When configured like this the nhx can feed both home loads and grid, and it does this by bumping up the hz a small amount above grid value. Where does the excess power the nhx feeds past the ct's go; grid, home, both and how is this determined?

x
View attachment 198020
It doesn't need to bump up the frequency. It can't. Grid is too strong. It bumps up the voltage a bit. It uses the CTs to sense the home loads and supplies those from battery or pv
 
Home loads and grid are both connected to 'grid' on the inverter.
Correct. So without the CTs the excess pv would flow to the grid, but any active home loads would use the power first.

Think of a grid tie inverter. It's always pushing power to the grid but home loads use it first.

But, if you add a CT, now the inverter knows exactly what the home loads are using and you can set the inverter to curtail output to only supply those home loads. Or you can set it to push all the excess to the grid/loads. The CTs give a lot of configuration options
 
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Ok ... yeah ... no ... nope. I don't get it. The CTs are before the split of home load/grid. Wouldn't the CTs just say this is how much current is either coming in to, or going out of the inverter? How does the inverter know if the electrons are making a left or a right after the home load/grid split? Maybe a link that goes into more detail?
 
Where electricity goes for dummies please.

Graphic from the NHX manual linked from Watts247: When configured like this the nhx can feed both home loads and grid, and it does this by bumping up the hz a small amount above grid value. Where does the excess power the nhx feeds past the ct's go; grid, home, both and how is this determined?

x
View attachment 198020
Yeah, that diagram doesn’t make much sense to me either. I would think the CTs would be by the main breaker if concerned about sending power back to the grid/zero export.
 
Ok ... yeah ... no ... nope. I don't get it. The CTs are before the split of home load/grid. Wouldn't the CTs just say this is how much current is either coming in to, or going out of the inverter? How does the inverter know if the electrons are making a left or a right after the home load/grid split? Maybe a link that goes into more detail?
Oh, I see. Where it is it can't see the power flowing to the main panel?
 
@Watts247 - Ian Roux 1)what were some of the small bugs/extensive updates? Are the bugs eliminated? 2)concerning zero export, will it actually do zero export without the occasional slip-up when a large load starts/stops? 2)are the mppt inputs actually separate mppts, or internally paralleled together, i.e. can one pv string have 400v and another pv string have 240v but connected to separated mppts?

3)can the CTs be placed before the meter (see below) so the NHX feeds excess to house loads but sends nothing to grid? 4)how long are the CT leads and can they be increased in length to ~30' without issue?
1708886914206.png
x
 
Oh, I see. Where it is it can't see the power flowing to the main panel?
Dude ... you had me scratching my head. My understanding of things electric actually did start with a butter knife in an outlet :fp2 (darn lucky the knife was too large to make contact and mum put an end to it), it hasn't improved much since then.
 
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Per the video Ian posted, it sounded like each mppt could do 500 VOC and 22 amp ISC independently. With that in mind, you should be able to over-panel this inverter with up to around 40kW of solar.
 
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