diy solar

diy solar

Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 as RV Converter replacement?

eXodus

Solar Addict
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
1,482
Hello,

I replaced my lead batteries with a 100AH LFP and now need to upgrade the converter/charger with something which speaks lithium and I don't have to watch it.

Doing some research I found the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 30A - which has a lot of settings and looks like it should fit in the power center. My current converter has 35A - so not that much different.


Concerns about using the IP22 as a permanent converter? It has a storage mode - in case I am plugged in for a long time.
 
I like User “Fully Programable” chargers;



IMG_1391.jpeg


I have zero experience with this charger, but it says “Fully Programmable” ,,, FWIW.

I figure ,,, hope ,,, any chargers buy now “Fully User Programmable” will function on future batteries of any type. Probably wishful thinking on my part.

IMG_1392.jpeg





I would want to know more about the “Fault Protection” ,,, Fuse easily & inexpensively replaceable by “the user” 🤔 ?
 
Last edited:
Hello,

I replaced my lead batteries with a 100AH LFP and now need to upgrade the converter/charger with something which speaks lithium and I don't have to watch it.

Doing some research I found the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 30A - which has a lot of settings and looks like it should fit in the power center. My current converter has 35A - so not that much different.


Concerns about using the IP22 as a permanent converter? It has a storage mode - in case I am plugged in for a long time.
I am currently testing this unit as a replacement for the OEM WFCO converter in my trailer. The adjust-ability of this unit in power user mode is impressive. It supplies the amps and corrected voltage using the smart shunt info. As for the fuse it is by the battery connection. It uses the automotive style blade fuse. At this point I would not hesitate to recommend this unit for a converter replacement.
 
Hello,

I replaced my lead batteries with a 100AH LFP and now need to upgrade the converter/charger with something which speaks lithium and I don't have to watch it.

Doing some research I found the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 30A - which has a lot of settings and looks like it should fit in the power center. My current converter has 35A - so not that much different.


Concerns about using the IP22 as a permanent converter? It has a storage mode - in case I am plugged in for a long time.
As a side note normally the OEM converter is a long ways away from the battery(s) In my opinion convenience and warranty concerns, 25-30 run of small gauge wire cause the typically poorly vented converter to shut down way early due to massive voltage drop. Install it near the battery. The rest of the 12 volt systems typically do not need the level of amps as the battery does.
 
As a side note normally the OEM converter is a long ways away from the battery(s) In my opinion convenience and warranty concerns, 25-30 run of small gauge wire cause the typically poorly vented converter to shut down way early due to massive voltage drop. Install it near the battery. The rest of the 12 volt systems typically do not need the level of amps as the battery does.
That is actually a very good hint. True it's a long run and I think ground is going to the frame rail so even worse connections.

My battery is all the way in front - and my converter 2/3 back. And it's close to the bed, when I would mount the IP22 in the front close to the battery - it should not bother me, even if the fan would run. Best is a got a 120V outlet close to the battery.

Might just disable the converter charger in the powercenter and don't even remove it, just adding the Victron to the front just above the battery.

Thanks for the inspiration, that project just got a whole lot easier ;)
 
That is actually a very good hint. True it's a long run and I think ground is going to the frame rail so even worse connections.
Correct
My battery is all the way in front - and my converter 2/3 back. And it's close to the bed,
when I would mount the IP22 in the front close to the battery - it should not bother me, even if the fan would run.
It has night mode that reduces amperage for 8 hours ( fan noise ) Best is a got a 120V outlet close to the battery. Yep
Might just disable the converter charger in the powercenter and don't even remove it, just adding the Victron to the front just above the battery.
In my case I flipped the breaker off. ( Redundancy is never a bad thing )
Thanks for the inspiration, that project just got a whole lot easier ;)
 
I use the phoenix ip43 charger similar to you. I also moved the charger/power supply close to the battery and DC distribution box to reduce redundant wire runs. No fan! Mounted on a big piece of aluminum diamond plate as a heat sink,
The programming in the units is impressive. My RV charger worked well, but it was 14.6 bulk or 13.6 CV with nothing in between. So far so good, plus as was said, networking with other victron stuff
 
I use the phoenix ip43 charger similar to you. I also moved the charger/power supply close to the battery and DC distribution box to reduce redundant wire runs. No fan! Mounted on a big piece of aluminum diamond plate as a heat sink,
The programming in the units is impressive. My RV charger worked well, but it was 14.6 bulk or 13.6 CV with nothing in between. So far so good, plus as was said, networking with other victron stuff

I’m looking for a “shop charger” for multiple FLA & AGM batteries. How “dialable” is the current ?



IMG_1395.jpeg

Most of the batteries I have are vehicle “starters”. Would be nice to have a 3 output unit that is individually user programmable & history data collected on all 3 charge profiles.
 
I’m looking for a “shop charger” for multiple FLA & AGM batteries. How “dialable” is the current ?



View attachment 207694

Most of the batteries I have are vehicle “starters”. Would be nice to have a 3 output unit that is individually user programmable & history data collected on all 3 charge profiles.
The 12/30 three battery version output is 10 amps on each but only one charge setting. With that said in expert mode if you know the battery specs can be set up that way. It has several settings including an adaptive mode.
 
The 12/30 three battery version output is 10 amps on each but only one charge setting. With that said in expert mode if you know the battery specs can be set up that way. It has several settings including an adaptive mode.
It has three outputs, but if you only are using one it will put out 30 amps to a single battery. I installed one a couple months ago.
 
It has night mode that reduces amperage for 8 hours ( fan noise ) Best is a got a 120V outlet close to the battery. Yep
I only got a 100AH battery + the lead starter battery, so worst case it charges for 3-4h @ 30A then it should go into float / storage?
n my case I flipped the breaker off. ( Redundancy is never a bad thing )

The amount of redundancy I am slowly building in this Class A RV is borderline Prepper paranoid ;)

I can charge the 12V:
- Grid (Converter)
- Generator (Onan 10A)
- Engine (140A alternator)
- 100W solar + PWM

when I add the Victron now - I am going to have 5 ways of charging the 12V - which is really only there to run lights and start the generator.

Everything else runs on 120V on my 24V big system
 
Back
Top