Mahendra Gomanie
Solar Enthusiast
I did wish the Li-time battery had an app or means to check cells individually (for imbalances /SOC) but considering the price and performance no complaints there.Okay, copy that. Thank you!
I did wish the Li-time battery had an app or means to check cells individually (for imbalances /SOC) but considering the price and performance no complaints there.Okay, copy that. Thank you!
I think Li-time has a 24v versionAhhh...okay. Yes, I remember reading something about this when connected in series
Yes sir, I did look at the 24v. But in the interest of saving some $$ went with the two 12v. LiTime was having a flash sale on the 12v 100a last week and I was able to purchase both for $557 out the door, including shippingI think Li-time has a 24v version
When we did this install the 12v batteries were not intentional.
No this is just an opinion. Its really just for sizing components and wiring. I run a 4000W 24v setup and wouldn't change a thing (I run Lead acids though). Even 6k @ 24V is not uncommon.I have another "dumb" question: When watching CleverSolarPower's videos, he states max for 24v system is 2,000w inverter. Are there any issues running 24v with 3,000 inverter such as the Midnite?
Okay cool. Thanks for this information. That helps a lot to know the larger inverter is not an issue. Since it's my first solar build ever I think the 3000 inverter with the 2400w 100a batteries will be perfect for my needs. I get like 6 or 7 hours of direct sun in my backyard so should be able to use solar to power my loads continuously during the day. And then switch to battery and/or grid at night. Does that sound correct? Apologies if these questions are elementary but before last week I didn't know my watts from my amps! ...LOLNo this is just an opinion. Its really just for sizing components and wiring. I run a 4000W 24v setup and wouldn't change a thing (I run Lead acids though). Even 6k @ 24V is not uncommon.
With only 2 of those batteries in series, you might bump into the max discharge rate if its only 100A BMS. So 100A @ 24V = 2400W. With no PV input at night you are limited to 2400w continuous. (They can surge to 280A for 5 seconds).
LiTime says you can do up to 4 in series. Yes over time you may experience balance issues, or you may not. Lots of folks do it. I think it mostly depends on the charge cycles and the ability to charge to full each day.
This is exactly what I want to do! The AC unit draws about 900w and I just want to use solar during the day to power itIncidentally I run the 3kW SRNE (PowMr) high PV voltage model. This afternoon I have on my 8000btu Aircon. You will see that under load the PV, with my battery full, does all the work of running it. The meter at 247w PV incoming is with the AC compressor cycled off just fan operating. When compressor cycles on you will note the incoming PV jumps up and the amount is slightly more than the load meter due to operating losses.
But you gotta be willing to fork out $$RealMoney$$ for those.For quiet operation, in a living space, there are some inverters without fans, that use heat sink and convection cooling.
Rednecktek, you said you went with the Growatt. Between the MPP LV2424, Midnite MN3024DIY, and Growatt SPH 3000TL would you still recommend the Growatt?But you gotta be willing to fork out $$RealMoney$$ for those.
Yeah, someone does, Not Me! - I built a home for my Solar Power Plant in the shop nextdoor and I don't care how loud it is !!But you gotta be willing to fork out $$RealMoney$$ for those.
Yup. Midnight was outside my price range and "coming soon" and the Growatt has another 600w of overhead to work with. It also has a lower starting voltage on its MPPT than most other AIOs which helps with the constant overcast I have to deal with in the PNW. The Growatt also supports more solar (2000w) and a wider MPPT range to work with.Rednecktek, you said you went with the Growatt. Between the MPP LV2424, Midnite MN3024DIY, and Growatt SPH 3000TL would you still recommend the Growatt?