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diy solar

Fuse's breakers and switches Help

Joined
Feb 24, 2024
Messages
8
Location
USA
24v3000 watts 2 battery 235 ah each system has been up and working for past 2 months .I started getting over load and I believe it called wavey voltage message at first anything over 2000 Watts dc got down to 1300 watts found hot spot on main breaker replaced cable then the breaker it self fixed the problem but I don't trust it 200 amp dc breaker need suggestions on a good replacement i also no longer trust the breakers feeding power to my mppt I like the idea of shutoff from the panels the one feeding the victon down to 29 amp charge to stop getting to much heat on the breaker panels 4/ 327 watts parallel open 56v 5. Amp I am very happy with it I built it for em back up but got put in to full service .when .main power pole failed
 

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24v3000 watts 2 battery 235 ah each system has been up and working for past 2 months .I started getting over load and I believe it called wavey voltage message at first anything over 2000 Watts dc got down to 1300 watts found hot spot on main breaker replaced cable then the breaker it self fixed the problem but I don't trust it 200 amp dc breaker need suggestions on a good replacement i also no longer trust the breakers feeding power to my mppt I like the idea of shutoff from the panels the one feeding the victon down to 29 amp charge to stop getting to much heat on the breaker panels 4/ 327 watts parallel open 56v 5. Amp I am very happy with it I built it for em back up but got put in to full service .when .main power pole failed
Here's what I like for battery breakers, Midnite 125V 250A fully rated. This can be used hundred of times while the random Amazon unit may just catch on fire just sitting there. However it's a big chunk so not ideal if you have limited space. For smaller loads I like the Midnite mnedc DC breakers, available in a range up to 100A. Shown on the right for size comparison in second pic.

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The cable connecting to the bus bar on the left side of the second picture is a problem waiting to happen. Or may already be happening. The bus bar simply isn't big enough. The bus bar should be larger than the lug that is on the cable. All those amps are going through just a subsection of the cable lug. Same thing with the lug pictured above it. The lower lug looks like it got chewed up! If the bottom of the lug looks anything like the top of the lug, you need to cut it off and put on a new lug. There appears to be a lot of corrosion/dirt on the bus bar. Clean that off until it shines and then apply some anti-corrosion paste like No-Ox-ID.

A Dz47 circuit breaker is an AC breaker, not a DC breaker. I made the same mistake on my initial install. Swap it out with a DC rated breaker. It looks like the breaker is in the circuit between the solar charge controller and the solar panels. If so, 63 amps is probably too high. If you have those panels in a 2s2p configuration then you may need a breaker rated for around 20 amps. Figure out the amps the panels can (optimally) produce and then multiply that by 125% to get the breaker rating.

I am skeptical that the 50 amp and 200 amp breakers are up to the task. Unless you're going to spend the big bucks for quality breakers like @Brucey said in his post, use fuses. I use MEGA fuses between the bus bar and the inverter. Between the LiFePO4 battery bank and the bus bar I use a Class T fuse.
 
The cable connecting to the bus bar on the left side of the second picture is a problem waiting to happen. Or may already be happening. The bus bar simply isn't big enough. The bus bar should be larger than the lug that is on the cable. All those amps are going through just a subsection of the cable lug. Same thing with the lug pictured above it. The lower lug looks like it got chewed up! If the bottom of the lug looks anything like the top of the lug, you need to cut it off and put on a new lug. There appears to be a lot of corrosion/dirt on the bus bar. Clean that off until it shines and then apply some anti-corrosion paste like No-Ox-ID.

A Dz47 circuit breaker is an AC breaker, not a DC breaker. I made the same mistake on my initial install. Swap it out with a DC rated breaker. It looks like the breaker is in the circuit between the solar charge controller and the solar panels. If so, 63 amps is probably too high. If you have those panels in a 2s2p configuration then you may need a breaker rated for around 20 amps. Figure out the amps the panels can (optimally) produce and then multiply that by 125% to get the breaker rating.

I am skeptical that the 50 amp and 200 amp breakers are up to the task. Unless you're going to spend the big bucks for quality breakers like @Brucey said in his post, use fuses. I use MEGA fuses between the bus bar and the inverter. Between the LiFePO4 battery bank and the bus bar I use a Class T fuse.
The lower lug you are referring to Runs cold 001 cable makes everything look small .the reason the lug looks ruff heavy wall copper pipe the cable gose All the through then put in 20 ton press flatten and drilled all my lugs are done that way .might not look pretty but it works great .run cold I'm trying to find circuit breakers and fuses that trip before the melt internally and fail
 
Here's what I like for battery breakers, Midnite 125V 250A fully rated. This can be used hundred of times while the random Amazon unit may just catch on fire just sitting there. However it's a big chunk so not ideal if you have limited space. For smaller loads I like the Midnite mnedc DC breakers, available in a range up to 100A. Shown on the right for size comparison in second pic.
Thank you

 
The cable connecting to the bus bar on the left side of the second picture is a problem waiting to happen. Or may already be happening. The bus bar simply isn't big enough. The bus bar should be larger than the lug that is on the cable. All those amps are going through just a subsection of the cable lug. Same thing with the lug pictured above it. The lower lug looks like it got chewed up! If the bottom of the lug looks anything like the top of the lug, you need to cut it off and put on a new lug. There appears to be a lot of corrosion/dirt on the bus bar. Clean that off until it shines and then apply some anti-corrosion paste like No-Ox-ID.

A Dz47 circuit breaker is an AC breaker, not a DC breaker. I made the same mistake on my initial install. Swap it out with a DC rated breaker. It looks like the breaker is in the circuit between the solar charge controller and the solar panels. If so, 63 amps is probably too high. If you have those panels in a 2s2p configuration then you may need a breaker rated for around 20 amps. Figure out the amps the panels can (optimally) produce and then multiply that by 125% to get the breaker rating.

I am skeptical that the 50 amp and 200 amp breakers are up to the task. Unless you're going to spend the big bucks for quality breakers like @Brucey said in his post, use fuses. I use MEGA fuses between the bus bar and the inverter. Between the LiFePO4 battery bank and the bus bar I use a Class T fuse.

These are ac breaks that explain why they're getting hot






.
 
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