ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Get a Micro Air... Mine started my 4T before I got one, but definitely caused a brown-out.
18kpv Issues
- Thread starter Dyotat100
- Start date
I had micro air before i got the inverter. It wouldn't start it at all at first. After numerous updates it's still hit or miss even with soft start. I have already contacted eg4 and they are going to honor the return. I have no idea what is up. 2 6548's ran my AC for 2 summers never a issue.
I'm trying to get someone to check my AC to make sure that there is no issue with it. But I have had 3 people tell me not interested when I tell them I'm running it off inverter. Telling me that's my problem. I tell them they better get up to speed. Now days it's real hard to find someone that really know's how to fix stuff. They just want to replace stuff.
I'm trying to get someone to check my AC to make sure that there is no issue with it. But I have had 3 people tell me not interested when I tell them I'm running it off inverter. Telling me that's my problem. I tell them they better get up to speed. Now days it's real hard to find someone that really know's how to fix stuff. They just want to replace stuff.
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ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Well, two 6548's would have 13KW of output vs 12KW on the 18kpv. I took no chances, and bought two 18's running in parallel. I'd say your 4T is right on the line needs just a hair more than what a 12KW will do. I did start my Goodman package unit with only one inverter running after I put in the Micro Air as a brown-out test. This was later in the summer, so not when it hit it the hardest starting.
The 6548's have a 12000VA surge rating, so 24000/100A instantaneous from two. Apparently the 18kpv isn't quite that good, couldn't find a spec. SolArk is rated at 24000 for 10 sec.
I'm puzzled why you would replace functional running gear and "upgrade" it with something slightly smaller and more expensive than what you already had. Glad they are taking the return.
The 6548's have a 12000VA surge rating, so 24000/100A instantaneous from two. Apparently the 18kpv isn't quite that good, couldn't find a spec. SolArk is rated at 24000 for 10 sec.
I'm puzzled why you would replace functional running gear and "upgrade" it with something slightly smaller and more expensive than what you already had. Glad they are taking the return.
Because they were noisy and I wanted to have a inverter that was CA legal. I really like this inverter. It just doesn't have the normal surge of other inverters. Not knowing that is the problem. It's not listed anywhere.
I could careless that it can do more then 12,000w for a short time. That's like playing rusian rullet. It's just a matter of time before you loose and the house shuts down when you go over 12k. It needs a higher surge like almost every other inverter.
Options are sol ark 15k or 2 10k NHX. The NHX surge to 20k and 15k ea for 10 seconds. 30k at 240v. But I really like running one unit.
Right now I'm trying to get someone to check my AC.
Have you monitored you AC start amps over a period of time? That's where I get different numbers from start to start
I could careless that it can do more then 12,000w for a short time. That's like playing rusian rullet. It's just a matter of time before you loose and the house shuts down when you go over 12k. It needs a higher surge like almost every other inverter.
Options are sol ark 15k or 2 10k NHX. The NHX surge to 20k and 15k ea for 10 seconds. 30k at 240v. But I really like running one unit.
Right now I'm trying to get someone to check my AC.
Have you monitored you AC start amps over a period of time? That's where I get different numbers from start to start
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
What to firmware version are you on?
Mine has no problem running the whole house here in Florida with a 3-ton HVAC system and a microair.
It has sustained 13.1 KW whilst the stove was cycling the oven and cooktops plus other house loads.
Mine has no problem running the whole house here in Florida with a 3-ton HVAC system and a microair.
It has sustained 13.1 KW whilst the stove was cycling the oven and cooktops plus other house loads.
There is your problem. You need to update.
1717 onward is likely the fix to your issue:
FAAB-1717
2024-01-18
- Changes log （Same as fAAB-1717）based on FAAB-1616
- 1. New feature: On-grid load balance and PV Sell for parallel system
- 2. New feature: Parallel settings synchronization
- 3. Flicker optimization: Voltage drop when heavy load start
- 4. Optimization for generator application, such as transfer time, warm up, cool down, exercise, and quick start&stop remotely.
- 5. Issue fixed: Generator End volt/SOC setting not work
- 6. Bug fixed: Cannot exit EPS mode when RSD active
- 7. Raise default value of start&stop volt/SOC for ACCouple, if PV inverter donot derate power at over frequency, customer can set lower value to disconnect it by generator relay
- 8. Enable Share Battery Function by default for US verison
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
The updated firmware will fix it, I personally guarantee it. BTDT.
Funny how another guy is having the same exact issue in another thread with 4t AC
FAAB-1818
2024-02-26
- （Same as fAAB-1818）based on FAAB-1616 and FAAB-1717
- 1.New feature— Parallel Setting Data Sync, synchronize the settings of primary and subordinates inverters.
- 2.New feature— Gen Boost, which enables the PV and battery to work with the generator together when the generator power is insufficient to handle the load.
- 3.New feature— Battery Backup Mode. When Enabled, the bateries will stay at the appointed SOC （default 100% SOC） unless there is no grid or grid abnormality or no generator port input.
- 4.New feature—N PE relay control
- 5.New feature—Gen over load alarm, if the generator power is greater than GenRatedPower+500w for 1 minute, an alarm prompt will appear.
- 6.Newly added—127/220V GridType. When set GridType to 120/208V, set EPS Voltage to 220V, the grid protection rules can be automatically adapted.
- 7.Newly added—Grid Peak-Shaving Power 2 kW, effective for corresponding time period 2.
- 8.Newly added—EPS overload recovery time is upload.
- 9.Newly added—Generator Cool-Down Time （Min） setting. After the generator is charged to the cut-off voltage, the inverter will not switch back to the generator for power supply unless it has not been shut down before exceeding the cooldown set time.
- 10.Improvment—Optimization of generator related logic. When manually starting the generator, as long as the GeneratorChargeEndSOC/Volt setting is not reached, it can still be charged. After stopping charging at GeneratorChargeEndSOC/Volt, there is a delay of 5 minutes for allowing to recharge to prevent repeated switching.
- 11. Improvment—Optimization of Quick charge.The inverter will automatically change its settings and use the AC charge function for the next one hour. After the charge is completed, the settings will be restored.
- 12. Improvment—The range of AC Couple Start/End Volt/SOC are enlarged.
- 13. Improvment—AC Couple can be used normally, when Micro grid enabled but generator is off.
- 14. Improvment—Adjust the range of lead-acid battery Ah settings from 50Ah to 5000Ah.The triggering current entering float charge mode can be changed （defaults to 0.01C）.
- 15. Improvment—Surge protection supports EPS output by1.35 times rated power for 1 minute.
- 16. Improvment—Balanced load during parallel and on-grid mode.
- 17. Change—The Share Battery function in the US version is enabled by default.
- 18. Problem fixing—Fixing the issue of generator can not be able to shut down after being started up by Quick Gen start. Generator will be automatically shuts down after 20 minutes of startup.
Obviously they are going to update you to 1919, but every firmware update is likely further fixing your issue.
So what is the actual surge capacity? Is that based on 12k or?
With PV: 14.7kW (10 min), 15.5kW (5 min) Without PV: 13.5kW (10 min)
Be nice if a number was given. Instead of a guessing game
Update worked so good that now my AC won't start at all. It's 67 degrees here and would run it fine when it's cool out. Now it starts and runs for 5 seconds and says power interrupted or over voltage.
I should have know better and left it alone
Nobodybusiness
Solar Sponge.
Yup.
wpns
Solar Joules are catch and release
@Quattrohead will be right over! 8*)
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
Did you try turning it off and then back on again?
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
Restart the inverter cold again, grid, pv and battery all off for a few then start it back up again.
Sometimes they seem to need a 2nd reboot.
Also give us the specific error code.
Sometimes they seem to need a 2nd reboot.
Also give us the specific error code.
Inverter gave no code. The AC started
and shut off after 5 seconds 2 times. 3rd time I got over voltage from micro air soft start. That's when I said I'm done. Not ruining my AC.
That's when I asked them to put back old firmware. I did restart inverter. Turned off and let it go blank.
Read top of pic where it says status
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ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Dude . . . I just looked at your status page. . . Your grid is 251V! That is REALLY high. You are exporting power which means it has to punch out a voltage HIGHER than whatever the grid is providing. Mee thinks this is your issue, I'd gamble the easy-start is not happy with that high a voltage. Likely you have other solar exports on your grid, pushing things a tad, and your old inverters did not export.
Ex: If your grid is 249v, the inverter is going to have to jack that up to 251 to export power. If the ES has like a 250v threshold, . . .
Ex: If your grid is 249v, the inverter is going to have to jack that up to 251 to export power. If the ES has like a 250v threshold, . . .
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
I'd try disconnecting the grid, let the inverter run on it's own closer to a nominal 240v, and see if that doesn't solve the problem. If so, then your work is cut out for you, I'm not sure what the next steps would be, maybe the ES has an adjustment for voltage limits?
If your saying my grid is high your wrong
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Wrong user's picture, . . .sorry, grasping straws.
Something may be wrong with the EG4. . . "Over-voltage" would need to be pretty darn high, perhaps the unit has a faulty sensor somewhere. Did you put a meter on the EPS outputs, and verify the voltage? Better yet put a recording meter on the HVAC AC line. Are you connected with anything to the "GRID"? If so what is the voltage on your grid lugs? I know the EG4 will easily handle 50A, thus I suspect something odd at play. None the less, if you are connected at the grid lugs with house power I would turn off that breaker and test.
Then again, it's possible your "Easy Start" has failed, coincidentally with your inverter swap. I would roll up my sleeves and start getting some voltage and current readings. A cheap recording multimeter/ammeter can be had on Amazon, you don't really need precision, just an idea of where you are. I would re-seat/re-torque all my electrical connections from the inverter to the panels/switching/whatever. You made a pretty big change swapping out two for one, with new wiring, something may have "jiggled" loose, or gotten twisted.
It never hurts to pull the cover on the HVAC and verify the wiring there, toss us some pics of the physical interconnects from the inverter to the panel. I can't tell you how many times I've solved an issue by simply walking it back. Oh, grab a temperature gun while you are at it shoot the various connection points. Unlikely you are going to blow up your HVAC, unless you have some ridiculous numbers. Pictures of the connections walk it from the HVAC, pull the cover, visual/physical inspection, re-seat the outside disconnect, check the fuses, make sure everything is tight. Pull the panel cover, verify the connection at the breaker is tight, check the connections at the panel to the inverter feed, and then back at the inverter.
The ususal, turn off the HVAC unit at the thermostat, verify voltage the entire way down at each point all the way to the contactor (S/B 0). Cut the power again, put the meter / probe on the wire just in front of the easy start, turn everything back on, start the HVAC, while monitoring the connection at the HVAC. If you see a problem post it here. I'm not buying a surge issue if you are only pulling 49-50A on start.
Nothing has changed on my setup. All the issues yesterday were from firmware update. I don't trust this thing enough to connect it to the grid. All wiring is the same since I did it in 2022. Been verified by EG4 with pic when I first installed and had issues. Only thing that changed was I had to pull out the 2 runs for the 6548's and swap for larger single run.
AC runs fine if I wire it to grid. Tomorrow a AC guy is coming to verify that my AC is all good.
AC runs fine if I wire it to grid. Tomorrow a AC guy is coming to verify that my AC is all good.
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ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
I can say I've not had any inverter specific issues with my pair since some of the Fall software updates. Even before then I hit them very hard last summer, thought early firmware releases had some interesting issues managing various edge case conditions, and flickering issues. Thus far, at least for me, these have met my expectations, and pushed out 20GW of electricity in less than a year. I'd be doing any testing with the latest firmware. If the Easy Start is showing an over-voltage fault running your AC then either the inverter or the Easy Start unit is faulty. That should be trivial to test with a recording meter.
Those pics are from yesterday after getting firmware 1919. Never seen a over voltage or power interrupt before. Normally AC tries to start and doesn't. Say start failure. With the 1919 it would start and run for 5 seconds and shut off. That's when it said power interrupt. Then 3rd attempt I got the over voltage.
AC starts fine now. But it is 63 degrees. It's when the AC gets hot and requires more to start is when issues happen. 2 weeks ago it was 85 out and AC wouldn't start.
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