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Emt or rigid conduit for PV on outside of house?

What options exist for a ground mount no more than 50ft away from basement entry where you can’t bury conduit due to incline (30°) and rock on mountain. Can maybe dig 4” here before hitting rock, boulders size of a truck.
You can run conduit exposed. Are you trying to meet code? If its exposed to possible physical damage they will want rigid steel. You might be able to fasten it right to the rock. Id probably just use rigid steel conduit.
 
You can run conduit exposed. Are you trying to meet code? If its exposed to possible physical damage they will want rigid steel. You might be able to fasten it right to the rock. Id probably just use rigid steel conduit.
Not necessarily code but want to be safe. I think rigid is the best option with water tight connectors to a weather head a few feet off the ground at panels. Depends on which way I run the conduit but I’m sure there are several rock anchor points I can use.
 
Not necessarily code but want to be safe. I think rigid is the best option with water tight connectors to a weather head a few feet off the ground at panels. Depends on which way I run the conduit but I’m sure there are several rock anchor points I can use.

If you have exposed solid rock, you might be able to chip a flat area and anchor unistrut brackets onto the surface.
 
Your emt MUST be grounded to the house system as do the panel frames.

There can be no other path to ground or a different rod or something else. The NEC states that when an EGC is used you MUST run it in the same conduit as the current carrying wires and it must be connected to the inverter ground which is tied to the house ground.

There are Titan water tight connectors that attach to the emt and flexible. They are expensive, but you only do it once. Make sure to get the correct ones and not the stuff for the non-metalic liquid tight. These will all be metal with a seal verse plastic. There are also connectors for standard knock-outs on an electrical panel.

Both emt and lfmc work fine with any panel. There is a minimum turn radius on the conduit so it doesn't collapse. You can make a loop-de-loop to do the radius of the turn tight.

Titan cuts with a standard pipe cutter like you would use on copper, emt, or you can use a hacksaw. Watch a few videos on the use. You have to trim and debur the ends inside and out.

This kit is worth the cost, just get one for the size you use.

And when in doubt if the cost is similar always get the larger conduit. If you ever need to run larger or extra wire it is simpler to not have to replace the conduit.

Now, there is a derating of current carrying capacity if more than 2 current carrying conductors are in the conduit. The ground conductor doesn't count. The EGC should be the same size as your panel wires.

Here is a link to a fill chart - lists conductors in the conduit allowed.
Is there a rule that says you can't do more than 10ft runs with the titan? I need over 50 ft.
 
Support every 4.5ft and within 12 inches of an electrical box. If the run is more than 6ft you MUST run a EGC inside it verse using it as the ground conductor.

The only thing else that limits it is less than 3% voltage drop.
 
Support every 4.5ft and within 12 inches of an electrical box. If the run is more than 6ft you MUST run a EGC inside it verse using it as the ground conductor.

The only thing else that limits it is less than 3% voltage drop.

Can I just put some wood blocks every 4.5ft and fasten it to that?

I'm definitely glad I went with 3/4" instead of 1/2".

Can I run bare copper wire as the EGC?
 
No one I know of would try to bend 1" rigid with a hand bender. I think the Harbor Freight hydraulic bender would do it. Its not that expensive.
I am one of those you don't know. :) Used to bend 1" rigid all the time with a hickey bender, bending in segments. Faster than trying to drag around a Greenlee 555 bender.
 
Can I just put some wood blocks every 4.5ft and fasten it to that?

I'm definitely glad I went with 3/4" instead of 1/2".

Can I run bare copper wire as the EGC?

Yes you can, the EGC needs to be the same awg as the current carrying conductors
 
My present setup had multiple 12 awg runs, and I included one 12 awg ground per physical array (couple of strings.)
My new one will have a ground with ampacity equal to Isc x number of strings x 1.56

Timselectric said EGC tables for undersized grounds could be used because ground-fault will shut off inverter load, even though breakers/fuses won't.

So follow your preferred "expert".
Same size as PV wires should usually be sufficient, unless I get in there and introduce multiple faults to maximize current.
 
My present setup had multiple 12 awg runs, and I included one 12 awg ground per physical array (couple of strings.)
My new one will have a ground with ampacity equal to Isc x number of strings x 1.56

Timselectric said EGC tables for undersized grounds could be used because ground-fault will shut off inverter load, even though breakers/fuses won't.

So follow your preferred "expert".
Same size as PV wires should usually be sufficient, unless I get in there and introduce multiple faults to maximize current.

I asked @timselectric this specific question recently and if I could downsize the ground and he said not to. Tagged him to see if he will come read it.
 
Support every 4.5ft and within 12 inches of an electrical box. If the run is more than 6ft you MUST run a EGC inside it verse using it as the ground conductor.

The only thing else that limits it is less than 3% voltage drop.

What would be limiting about a 3% voltage drop? It's not code, unless it's some locally adopted code in addition to the NEC.
 
...snip..

There can be no other path to ground or a different rod or something else. The NEC states that when an EGC is used you MUST run it in the same conduit as the current carrying wires and it must be connected to the inverter ground which is tied to the house ground.
...snip...
So, if I have panels connected as shown below with the ground wires shown in green and the conduit/box in orange.

Do I have to do the top picture or am I allowed by NEC to do the bottom picture. And if so, can I insert the ground wire at box labeled HERE?(2) or do I need to insert it at HERE?(1)?

Also, do I need to ground the rails(in yellow) also?
Ground wire.jpg
 
I asked @timselectric this specific question recently and if I could downsize the ground and he said not to. Tagged him to see if he will come read it.




 
I am one of those you don't know. :) Used to bend 1" rigid all the time with a hickey bender, bending in segments. Faster than trying to drag around a Greenlee 555 bender.
I don't see hickey benders being used much anymore. Probably require too much skill. I remember them from the 70s and 80s.
 





I can see in this specific post where he says exactly what you are. When I asked the question I must have mistated the problem or not understood the answer.



I'll look for the reference I was thinking of and see if I can find it.
 
So, if I have panels connected as shown below with the ground wires shown in green and the conduit/box in orange.

Do I have to do the top picture or am I allowed by NEC to do the bottom picture. And if so, can I insert the ground wire at box labeled HERE?(2) or do I need to insert it at HERE?(1)?

Also, do I need to ground the rails(in yellow) also?
View attachment 231075
It feels like you haven’t done some basic research yet. Common way to do this with modern racking is to bond the EGC to rails first. With #6 after exiting conduit and cable since that is the minimum size for exposed runs in solar arrays. And then use bonding clips that work with the panel mounts to bond the panels to the rails.

You also seem to be doing a very unusual number of home runs in that conduit

Did you read the grounding section in the manual for your racking? IMO the manual for Unirac does a good job (but that is from the angle of me already understanding bonding somewhat well).
 

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