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Converting large RV to Solar and Lithium, assistance needed

ironladd

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Dec 23, 2019
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I have a large Fleetwood Diesel pusher with an Onan 6Kw diesel generator, a Magnum MS-2000 Inverter, and four 6V 208Ah lead acid batteries. I don't want to deal with battery maintenance and want to ensure my batteries always have good charge on them.

My plan is to replace the four 6v batteries with two 12v 150Ah / 1920Wh batteries (ohmmu.com) and four 100w solar panels (Amazon glass). (Coach is pre-wired for solar, but yes, I still need a solar controller/charger, yet to be decided on)

Now, all of this seems fairly straight forward to install and wire, but what I'm not finding on this site and I'm unsure of is, when I'm plugged into shore power or running the generator, how do I ensure my very expensive Lithium batteries are being charged correctly? Is it best to set maximum charge to 90% or another setting, or is charging to 100% okay to do? Also, I understand charging them when they are below 0F can also harm them, so how do I ensure this doesn't happen? The posts I see on charging at low temps suggest a heater pad, etc... But if my coach is in outdoor storage for a month and I go to pick it up, those batteries could be below 0F, unless people are leaving the heating pad on, running from the batteries themselves, using the solar to keep them charged in the off season?????
note: in reviewing the manual for the Inverter, Equalization is always manual, so I don't have to worry about automatic equalization ruining the batteries. The inverter can also be set to turn off at anywhere between 9 and 12.2 volts and I've heard with Lithium, the lower voltage is a better turn off point.

On top of all of this, my coach has an automated generator start up to start up the generator when the batteries get to a low voltage. (I need to do more research on this) Generator uses the house batteries to start, so they need enough of a charge to turn over the generator if in this automatic mode.

Someone else has to have done what I'm planning, so a little guidance would be appreciated.
 
Kinda depends on your equipment you are using? What are you using as you charger? Does it allow a custom charging profile? First you should consider a 24 volt system and larger solar panels for such a large RV. You should also use a proper starter battery with cranking amps to start your genset and not any type of Li Ion to start your large genset. Li Ion are not starter batteries. Hook the genset to your cab starting battery.
 
Victron controllers wont charge below freezing or any temp you custom set. And unlike lead dont need to be charged at all in storage. So no worries. If youre using coach in freezing temps you will want a couple $40 heating pads. No big deal, theyre automatic thermostat.

Your magnum converter needs to be set for sealed lead acid or 14.6v. If you can set custom voltages try 14.5v and that will under-charge just right.

Inverter cutoff at 12v is good. Voltage of lifepo4 drops very fast. There little difference in capacity between 12v and say 11.5v.

Id take generator out of automatic mode in storage although it shouldnt be an issue. Just in case deal. It generally is going to be okay at lead acid voltages; on at 12v or 11.8v and stay on until 14.4 -14.6v although you may not want it running that long just for efficiency reasons since you have solar.
 
Victron controllers wont charge below freezing or any temp you custom set. And unlike lead dont need to be charged at all in storage. So no worries. If youre using coach in freezing temps you will want a couple $40 heating pads. No big deal, theyre automatic thermostat.

Your magnum converter needs to be set for sealed lead acid or 14.6v. If you can set custom voltages try 14.5v and that will under-charge just right.

Inverter cutoff at 12v is good. Voltage of lifepo4 drops very fast. There little difference in capacity between 12v and say 11.5v.

Id take generator out of automatic mode in storage although it shouldnt be an issue. Just in case deal. It generally is going to be okay at lead acid voltages; on at 12v or 11.8v and stay on until 14.4 -14.6v although you may not want it running that long just for efficiency reasons since you have solar.

This makes perfect sense and is very useful. The LBCO has a max setting of 12.2. I’ll use that. For Battery type, I have gel, flooded, AGM1, and AGM2.

What about the comment above around the generator? I’ve been doing a lot of research and watching YouTube conversions, and no one ever talks about not using the Li-Ion batteries to start the generator. Look at fifth wheel conversions. They don’t have a chassis bank to move generator to.
 
Are you set on Li-Ion? Have you considered LiFePO4?
Definitely considered those. Haven’t bought yet, but the ones from ohmmu are the same price with 50 more Ah, so I’m really considering those since I’m only wanting two. Getting 300Ah from two batteries would be pretty nice. And for under 2k.
 
Not sure I understand your comment. This isn’t a new company. They’ve been making batteries for Tesla’s, Leaf’s, and other applications for years.

The chemistry of those types of batteries is susceptible to thermal runaway.
 
I'm still in the planning stages, but I'm on a similar journey with my recently purchased motorhome: a 97 newmar 37' diesel pusher.

the coach batteries are 4x FLA 12v batteries that the PO replaced under two years ago, they seem to have never had a real workout --PO never had the lids off and the cells weren't low of water. nearly EVERYTHING in the RV works off of this bank (asides from A/C's and washer/dryer) -- the rv didn't come with an inverter. it does have a nice looking 120vac to 12vdc charger.

I plan on leaving the stock 12vdc electrical system alone. it works great, I don't see a reason to mess with it. this way I can return the MH to stock easily -- and if my big battery bank hits the low voltage disconnect I still have a fully charged bank for lights/fans/entertainment.

up front there's a non-functional onan 6500 setup to run off of propane. I have not had time to diagnose it yet.

currently my plans are to ditch the onan completely and fill the large space (where most MH's would have a gas engine) with batteries. I've been hating myself for not going and buying some of those $300 24v lifepo4 packs people are testing on this forum right now. I am also considering used AGM's if I can get a good price on a lot.

I haven't thought much past this so far. do a lot of research and weigh your options. I'm a very frugal (read: cheap) DIY minded person so if I go lithium I'm defiantly going to build packs and the bluetooth BMS's raved about on here.
 
Id hold off on batteries then. I think prices may fall quite a bit in about 13 months.
 
Do you plan on charging from the engine alternator? Will generally recomends keeping the starter/engine circuit seperated from the house batteries. However, if you want to charge from your engine, he recommends using a DC-DC charger. This allows you to manage the house battery charge profile independently from your start battery.
 
The chemistry of those types of batteries is susceptible to thermal runaway.
So, chemistry is the same, Lithium Iron Phosphate, but the ohmmu are only 4 cell. If there is a chemistry difference I am missing, please educate me instead of just saying they are different.
 
I'm still in the planning stages, but I'm on a similar journey with my recently purchased motorhome: a 97 newmar 37' diesel pusher.

the coach batteries are 4x FLA 12v batteries that the PO replaced under two years ago, they seem to have never had a real workout --PO never had the lids off and the cells weren't low of water. nearly EVERYTHING in the RV works off of this bank (asides from A/C's and washer/dryer) -- the rv didn't come with an inverter. it does have a nice looking 120vac to 12vdc charger.

I plan on leaving the stock 12vdc electrical system alone. it works great, I don't see a reason to mess with it. this way I can return the MH to stock easily -- and if my big battery bank hits the low voltage disconnect I still have a fully charged bank for lights/fans/entertainment.

up front there's a non-functional onan 6500 setup to run off of propane. I have not had time to diagnose it yet.

currently my plans are to ditch the onan completely and fill the large space (where most MH's would have a gas engine) with batteries. I've been hating myself for not going and buying some of those $300 24v lifepo4 packs people are testing on this forum right now. I am also considering used AGM's if I can get a good price on a lot.

I haven't thought much past this so far. do a lot of research and weigh your options. I'm a very frugal (read: cheap) DIY minded person so if I go lithium I'm defiantly going to build packs and the bluetooth BMS's raved about on here.
Sounds fun! Enjoy. I like the idea of replacing the Generator with a large battery pack. This option doesn't make as much sense for me though, based on the type of RV'ing we do.
 
Id hold off on batteries then. I think prices may fall quite a bit in about 13 months.
Well, I have to do something now. Current Lead Acid batteries are dead and won't charge. I could make an effort to revive them since they are only 2 years old. Been reading up on repairing batteries and the RV will be parked for the next 3 months, so there is time to try and revive them and get another 1-2 years out of them while I wait for Lithium prices to drop more.
 
So, chemistry is the same, Lithium Iron Phosphate, but the ohmmu are only 4 cell. If there is a chemistry difference I am missing, please educate me instead of just saying they are different.

Something is not adding up. Telsa doesn't use Lithium iron Phosphate.
Precisely which battery are we talking about?
 
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Do you plan on charging from the engine alternator? Will generally recomends keeping the starter/engine circuit seperated from the house batteries. However, if you want to charge from your engine, he recommends using a DC-DC charger. This allows you to manage the house battery charge profile independently from your start battery.
My coach is not wired to charge the batteries from the engine alternator. Engine charges the chassis batteries only, which I plan to leave alone. The house batteries are charged from the Magnum MS-2000 Inverter/Charger, while on shore power or running the generator. Once an MPPT solar charger and panels are put in, the batteries will be charged from Solar/MPPT or MS-2000.
 
Something is not adding up. Telsa doesn't use Lithium iron Phosphate.
Precisely which battery are we talking about?
;) Read what FilterGuy says above. Teslas, Leaf's, all EV's have a small 12v house battery. People will upgrade these to LiFePO4 to support higher end amplifiers, electronics, etc....
 
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