24v large FLA AC charger?

[justinm001]

Seems large 24v chargers are hard to find. My coach came with a power a 30a charger but it died (my fault, likely dropped it too many time) . I'm wanting to max out a 120v outlet so ideally something like 75amps. Anyone know of a 28.5v 60-75a charger?

The plan is to have it as an emergency backup to charge my chassis batteries then since I have DC DC converters to my 12v and 48v systems it'll be a backup charging source for them too.

My chassis batteries are 4x12v in series/parallel with a 100a Vanner equalizer. Maybe I should get 2x75a 12v chargers and wire them up to each side of the Vanner? This would give me additional redundancy and also allow me to only use 1 and pull under 7a from shore

 

[DIYrich]

50 amps would max out a 15 amp 120v circuit (80% load).

Victron Skylla-TG Charger 24V -50A (SKU Part Number SDTG2400501)

<p><strong>Perfect chargers for any type of battery</strong><br>Charge voltage can be precisely adjusted to suit any sealed or unsealed battery system. In particular, sealed maintenance free batteries must be charged correctly in order to ensure a long service life. Overvoltage will result in...

powerstore.com

 

[chrisski]

A 200 amp FLA bank should max out at ~25 amps charging. I use this Aims 120 vac to 24 VDC 37 amp charger

https://www.amazon.com/AIMS-Power-CON120AC1224DC-Converter-Battery/dp/B07N1K43NQ/

When I looked I did not find a stronger charger for a 15 amp outlet. Please note these 75 amp 12 volt 24 volt chargers deliver half the amps at the higher voltage. Really need to dig into the manual for that, if it even shows it.

 

[seneysolar]

Iota DLS series has 24v options up to 40A. Iota are the best deal on chargers per amp rating

Iota DLS-27-40: 24 Volt 40 Amp Regulated Battery Charger

Iota 24 Volt Solar Battery Charger | 40 Amp | DLS-27-40

www.solar-electric.com

 

[Bob142]

Iota DLS series has 24v options up to 40A. Iota are the best deal on chargers per amp rating

Iota DLS-27-40: 24 Volt 40 Amp Regulated Battery Charger

Iota 24 Volt Solar Battery Charger | 40 Amp | DLS-27-40

www.solar-electric.com

I use this for my 280AH LFP bank. Note that the plug requires a 20A receptacle as it has one horizontal blade.

 

[justinm001]

50 amps would max out a 15 amp 120v circuit (80% load).

Victron Skylla-TG Charger 24V -50A (SKU Part Number SDTG2400501)

<p><strong>Perfect chargers for any type of battery</strong><br>Charge voltage can be precisely adjusted to suit any sealed or unsealed battery system. In particular, sealed maintenance free batteries must be charged correctly in order to ensure a long service life. Overvoltage will result in...

powerstore.com

That thing looks massive and won't fit. I'm not sure I need to worry about the 80% since it should derate and shouldn't be on longer than 3 hours.

The problem is I have a 800w and 400w dc converter to the 12 and 48 banks so that's 1200w. If say I want to put the coach in storage mode and have it sit inside a garage for months I'd want the inverters off and 1 15a outlet to charge all 3. If not above 1200w I'd be worried some loads would drain the chassis 24v.

 

[seneysolar]

That thing looks massive and won't fit. I'm not sure I need to worry about the 80% since it should derate and shouldn't be on longer than 3 hours.

The skylla charger is 230V input, so its not for you.

The problem is I have a 800w and 400w dc converter to the 12 and 48 banks so that's 1200w. If say I want to put the coach in storage mode and have it sit inside a garage for months I'd want the inverters off and 1 15a outlet to charge all 3. If not above 1200w I'd be worried some loads would drain the chassis 24v.

Not sure what you mean by 1200w draining the 24v chassis? Surely the dc converters are not maxed out while in storage right? No use - no draw other than trickle charge.

 

[justinm001]

The skylla charger is 230V input, so its not for you.

Not sure what you mean by 1200w draining the 24v chassis? Surely the dc converters are not maxed out while in storage right? No use - no draw other than trickle charge.

I have a good 100w idle 12v draw I can't find but will have some draw from router, wifi and such. Also figured things like tank heaters and such. I'm just worried xyz might happen and turn on something then cause the converters to run which drains my 24v chassis.

Also ideally I'd remotely turn on inverter to run dehumidifier and such if needed.

 

[seneysolar]

I have a good 100w idle 12v draw I can't find but will have some draw from router, wifi and such. Also figured things like tank heaters and such. I'm just worried xyz might happen and turn on something then cause the converters to run which drains my 24v chassis.

Also ideally I'd remotely turn on inverter to run dehumidifier and such if needed.

So you have inverters running all the time?

 

[HarryN]

The typical home outlet wired to a 15 amp home breaker is intended to run ~ 10 amps / 1100 watts continuous.

For short periods of time you can run a blow dryer at 1800 watts, but that is not a continuous rating and they will over heat.

If you have 240 vac available, then perhaps a pair of these could be interesting.

DLS 240 27V 40A Converter and Charger - 40 Amp AC\DC Power Converter and Battery Charger for 24V battery charging in 240VAC applications

The DLS 240 27V 40A Power Converter/Battery Charger from IOTA converts nominal 216-264 AC voltage to 27.2 DC voltage for both DC load operation and 24V battery charging. As a power supply , the

www.iotaengineering.com

This one works well for 120 vac operation:

DLS 27V 25A Converter and Charger - 25 Amp AC\DC Power Converter and Battery Charger for DC load operation and 24V battery charging

The DLS 27V 25A Power Converter/Battery Charger from IOTA converts nominal 108-132 AC voltage to 27.2 DC voltage for both DC load operation and 24V battery charging. As a power supply , the unit's

www.iotaengineering.com

 

[HarryN]

Do you have any ability to have some solar panels mounted where the RV is stored?

Maybe on the outside of the building where you keep it and just use those to feed into the coach?

 

[justinm001]

So you have inverters running all the time?

Right now I do. Have about 80w draw on my 48v system and 40w on my 12v from leaving the inverters on.

If in storage I could just have the 12v inverter on to run all critical loads or turn it on/off if needed. Even in storage I wouldn't want my RV to get over 100 deg or under 40, and would want humidity controlled.

The problem is with the dc dc converters it'll assume the load before the batteries so if I have a 24v charger that's only 600w and I kick on 1200w load it'll pull 1000w from the converter (85a) then back down to the 70ish amps 800w. Meaning I'd assume it'll drain my 24v chassis below 18v until they shutfown. It might be only for a few hours but still a risk I don't want to deal with.

The point is to have the entire system self contained and able to account for anything itself, then if it's not possible (say in 0deg for weeks) it'll alert me.


Right now with all inverters on, I have shore into the 48v inverters which then uses AC to the 12v inverter to charger then a 10a 24v charger for house. Also a 70a 12v charger for the gen battery. But with the 120w drain it doesn't seem ideal for long term storage. I could shutdown the 48v system and plug shore into 12v but doesn't seem ideal. Also my inverters are all 5000w and need 13a min to charge.

So maybe getting 2 24v chargers running in parallel is best, then I can run one or both depending if I have 15a shore or only 5a.

 

[justinm001]

Do you have any ability to have some solar panels mounted where the RV is stored?

Maybe on the outside of the building where you keep it and just use those to feed into the coach?

I'm just prepping for any use case down the road, but my main concern is it looks like I have a 40k+ major repair on my coach and could be sitting in the shop for weeks.
Side panels are coming unglued like this video

And I'm assuming since it's bodywork it'll be sitting inside their service center.

 

[seneysolar]

Right now I do. Have about 80w draw on my 48v system and 40w on my 12v from leaving the inverters on.

If in storage I could just have the 12v inverter on to run all critical loads or turn it on/off if needed. Even in storage I wouldn't want my RV to get over 100 deg or under 40, and would want humidity controlled.

How do you control humidity from 24V?

The problem is with the dc dc converters it'll assume the load before the batteries so if I have a 24v charger that's only 600w and I kick on 1200w load it'll pull 1000w from the converter (85a) then back down to the 70ish amps 800w. Meaning I'd assume it'll drain my 24v chassis below 18v until they shutfown. It might be only for a few hours but still a risk I don't want to deal with.

12V inverter run directly off DC -DC converter to 24V battery?

The point is to have the entire system self contained and able to account for anything itself, then if it's not possible (say in 0deg for weeks) it'll alert me

It cant be self contained without shore power. What am I missing?

Right now with all inverters on, I have shore into the 48v inverters which then uses AC to the 12v inverter to charger then a 10a 24v charger for house. Also a 70a 12v charger for the gen battery. But with the 120w drain it doesn't seem ideal for long term storage. I could shutdown the 48v system and plug shore into 12v but doesn't seem ideal. Also my inverters are all 5000w and need 13a min to charge.

If your inverters accept shore power, this is best case in my opinion. Playing catch up with battery chargers is inefficient. The charger built in to the inverters can maintain the batteries and power loads at the same time, this is how they are designed and will be the most efficient. The chargers will go into Float when batteries are full and no loads, just like a stand alone AC charger.

When this was originally posted I thought "Storage" meant everything off, maybe only some DC circuits. Keeping everything on is now a full time system. Just use the built in chargers on your inverters with AC going to them directly from a shore power plug.

So maybe getting 2 24v chargers running in parallel is best, then I can run one or both depending if I have 15a shore or only 5a.

Yes you can parallel chargers if you have 2 separate outlets available or a 30A plug. Why would you only have 5A shore power?

Its still unclear what is 24V powered? Is there a 24V inverter somewhere?

Why the variety of systems? 12v 24v and 48v? I feel like we are missing some details here but I guess the bottom line is you need the inverters on to climate control your rig anyways so just use the charger feature.

 

[HarryN]

That is a challenging situation for sure.

I will think about it some more.

On power systems that I have built, I put a breaker in between each parallel string of batteries and the main bus bar, so I can shut them down / isolate each string.

A setup like you have definitely needs some thought on how to do it, and if anything can be shut down completely. Sometimes the answer is just simply no.

 

[justinm001]

How do you control humidity from 24V?

12V inverter run directly off DC -DC converter to 24V battery?

It cant be self contained without shore power. What am I missing?


If your inverters accept shore power, this is best case in my opinion. Playing catch up with battery chargers is inefficient. The charger built in to the inverters can maintain the batteries and power loads at the same time, this is how they are designed and will be the most efficient. The chargers will go into Float when batteries are full and no loads, just like a stand alone AC charger.

When this was originally posted I thought "Storage" meant everything off, maybe only some DC circuits. Keeping everything on is now a full time system. Just use the built in chargers on your inverters with AC going to them directly from a shore power plug.

Yes you can parallel chargers if you have 2 separate outlets available or a 30A plug. Why would you only have 5A shore power?

Its still unclear what is 24V powered? Is there a 24V inverter somewhere?

Why the variety of systems? 12v 24v and 48v? I feel like we are missing some details here but I guess the bottom line is you need the inverters on to climate control your rig anyways so just use the charger feature.

I have a fully redundant rig. 24V chassis/starter system then 48V dual 5kw inverter system which feeds into my 12V 5kw inverter system. Both systems have 10kwh batteries and DC DC converters. The point is to have critical loads on the 12V inverter side so I can turn off my 48V inverters and save the 80w idle consumption.

Problem now is I need to have 13a/120V minimum on either system to charge, because of how large the Victron inverters are. When outside its self contained with solar and a 20kw genset just incase. If I'm in storage or in for repairs I'll likely not have shore power or possibly able to use a shared 15a socket.

If I can run everything to my 24V chassis system then use the DC DC converters I could keep everything topped off forever with like 95% efficiency and no idle losses. I can then remotely turn on the inverters which then can turn on climate control and the 120v dehumidifier and such just for a bit then turn all off and let the 24V to DC converters recharge the batteries slowly. It also gives me a redundancy if either inverter is dead and I need to keep the system charged for whatever reason.

Furthermore I can run 120V wiring from both the 12v and 48v inverters to outlets in that bay and use either system to power the 24V charger, so if either battery bank is dead I'd be able to run the inverters. Say my 12V batteries are broken, I could run the 24V charger off the 48V AC outlet and disconnect the 48V dc converter then it'll provide 12V power for the inverter and my 12V loads. Yeah I'll go DC to AC to DC to AC and lose 30%+ but it'll work in an emergency situation.

 

[seneysolar]

I have a fully redundant rig. 24V chassis/starter system then 48V dual 5kw inverter system which feeds into my 12V 5kw inverter system. Both systems have 10kwh batteries and DC DC converters. The point is to have critical loads on the 12V inverter side so I can turn off my 48V inverters and save the 80w idle consumption.

Problem now is I need to have 13a/120V minimum on either system to charge, because of how large the Victron inverters are. When outside its self contained with solar and a 20kw genset just incase. If I'm in storage or in for repairs I'll likely not have shore power or possibly able to use a shared 15a socket.

If I can run everything to my 24V chassis system then use the DC DC converters I could keep everything topped off forever with like 95% efficiency and no idle losses. I can then remotely turn on the inverters which then can turn on climate control and the 120v dehumidifier and such just for a bit then turn all off and let the 24V to DC converters recharge the batteries slowly. It also gives me a redundancy if either inverter is dead and I need to keep the system charged for whatever reason.

Furthermore I can run 120V wiring from both the 12v and 48v inverters to outlets in that bay and use either system to power the 24V charger, so if either battery bank is dead I'd be able to run the inverters. Say my 12V batteries are broken, I could run the 24V charger off the 48V AC outlet and disconnect the 48V dc converter then it'll provide 12V power for the inverter and my 12V loads. Yeah I'll go DC to AC to DC to AC and lose 30%+ but it'll work in an emergency situation.

Ahh i see. Well sounds like a single 40A Iota might be worth a try, just be sure to get the add-on IQ4 charge controller so it can adjust accordingly.

But at the end of the day you are limited to the single 15A/120V socket that may or may not trip when loaded up. Your charger may get unplugged so the shop can make coffee without the breaker tripping.