John Frum
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Renogy DC DC Charger w/ MPPT
- Thread starter Will Prowse
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if you want to install shore power you will need a transfer switch. this unit only does the alternator and solar is what renogy told me.
thedodgersonline
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Hi
Yes, have had the BMS15 in my camper for the last 6 or 7 years. Bullet proof. A bit limiting on the solar input voltage but there are enough panels to cover that. The output is limited to 15amps.
Regards
Remy1927
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Has anyone successfully installed one in a vehicle with a smart alternator? I have tried, but cannot seem to the light to come on and charge my batteries. Looking for an example. I tried using an "add a circuit" to an existing fuse, but I don't see why there are two wires for the IGN. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thedodgersonline
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Which one are you talking about. I had the RedArc BMS15 running off a Toyota Prado which had a smart alternator and it worked fine.
Remy1927
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The one that this thread was started for. I have the Renogy DCC50S. I'm using Will's schematic that he has on his site. I have everything hooked up exactly how he does, but I can't seem to get the Alternator light to come on and charge the batteries. I have over 14V coming in from the starter battery and I used one of the IGN wires and hooked it to a 12V ignition switched source, but still no light.
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thedodgersonline
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Just had a look at the manual and it seems there needs to be an Earth as well as the Pos for the IGN input. Thinking about it as well you should be able to check it with the IGN disconnected - as per dumb alternator. Connect the one connector to earth and leave the other disconnected and see if it works with the alternator. There was also an item in the manual that it will switch off if the alternator voltage goes too high. This might be something to check as well.
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Santa
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How can you earth ground if you're driving?? @Will Prowse never said anything about earth grounding in his video and I don't believe he earth grounded. @JeepHammer will you please tell me what you think about the last post since you are very familiar with alternators, etc.?
Vehicle chassis grounding is not a "true earth ground" for dissipating excess charge (which needs to be done in some parts of a solar system. Especially the frames of large pv arrays)
Chassis grounding can save on wire cost if you are running large wires. Just ensure that you know how to chassis ground properly.
If you have grid tie system on a vehicle, ground everything. Very important. Your converter box will be grounded through the 30/50A service cable. You can also ground chassis to true earth ground yourself if you want.
Boats are totally different and need to be grounded per ABYC standards.
For small mobile solar systems that do not have grid tie/ac input, I do not ground anything. Pretty pointless. Unless I am trying to save on wire costs.
Just ensure that wires/ocpd and everything else is sized accordingly for your application.
Just ensure that wires/ocpd and everything else is sized accordingly for your application.
Do you have a smart alternator?
Exactly. Or get an inverter/charger like a victron.
Yes some vans have that. I have seen this on ambulances. They work well as starting batteries when sized properly and designed to work with charging system of vehicle.
Which battery monitor? I have a few on my website under components
Just connect inverter/charger to your solar/house battery and that's it. Add alternator/mppt charger to solar/house battery. You can connect multiple chargers and loads to a single battery.
Santa
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Speaking of which Will, I have recently (in the last day) learned that ALL MC4 connectors only have a 20Amp limit according to the NEC. It was a big surprise to me to see that. (I am learning so much here & that each and every single piece of a system has to be individually considered). If I were to use the 4 to 1 Y branch MC4 connector on THIS specific blueprint, I would be exceeding the NEC limits. That is, 100 watt panel / 12 volts = 8.33Amps (per panel). If you multiply 8.33 x (4) 100watt panels, it equals 33.32Amps & it exceeds the limit of 20Amps per MC4 connector. Two panels are good, (8.33 x 2 = 16.66Amps) so two 2 to 1 Y MC4 branch connectors seems much safer (both negative and posive for each two connections.) I hope I said that right...do you agree?
MC4 on individual panels only carries current for each panel. The branch adapter can handle 30 amps. And yes that's the UL, 20A. But you are never pushing anything more than what an individual panel can push in parallel configuration. So its totally fine.
The branch adapter to MPPT needs thick wire. In the blueprint it shows that, but a beginner may not notice that, so I will mention it on the web page.
Just splice 8/10 gauge depending on the distance. Between mppt/branch adapter.
Does that make sense? If you follow the blueprint, should be good to go. But I'll add a note to the blueprint
The branch adapter to MPPT needs thick wire. In the blueprint it shows that, but a beginner may not notice that, so I will mention it on the web page.
Just splice 8/10 gauge depending on the distance. Between mppt/branch adapter.
Does that make sense? If you follow the blueprint, should be good to go. But I'll add a note to the blueprint
I hate doing parallel connections. For this reason. Such a pain in the butt. Really hope they can make a higher input voltage model so we don't have to deal with these low voltage high current pv problems.
I also mentioned the mc4 limit in that video and a few other videos. Never ever push more than even 15A through mc4. They get hot quick
thedodgersonline
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Not quite sure what you mean. All wiring and terminations would be installed and complete prior to driving, I would guess. The manual clearly shows an earth / ground input requirement. The IGN input seems optional but not the ground. This has nothing to do with the alternator but the Renergy system.
Remy1927
New Member
Yes, although the how-to tests I found online didn't seem to apply to my truck. I seem to be having a pretty constant 14V+ coming in when I test it. I am driving a 2020 GMC sierra and from what I have found online it does have a smart alternator. It also has the auto stop/strart option, so obviously it wouldn't be putting out any voltage in that situation. I Just re-watched your video Will and you mentioned that it would be best to have the BVS hooked directly to the battery. I am wondering if the charger isn't getting a good read on the battery voltage and therefore isn't turning on because of it? I have 2 Valence U27-12XP batteries in parallel reading 13.43V.
It's impossible. Vehicles have tires. The tires insulate. You do not have a true earth ground in a mobile system. If you want, you can ground the chassis to earth ground if you wish. Chassis grounding is not earth grounding.
Sounds like a defective unit. Can you put a clamp meter on alternator wires? Also check the voltage drop at the charger with a meter.
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