diy solar

diy solar

Getting ready to install my charge controller.

P

ppzzus

New Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
51
#1 Installing epever 4215n. Long story short I fried my old controller due to a residual charge in the panels. It's a very cloudy day today and it's still showing 110v from my panels. When the sun sets should the voltages level off so I can install? If not what's a safe way to clear that charge out? I just want to be super clear before I screw myself again.

#2 where can I find the correct setting for my 24v setup? Currently running 8 280a 3.2v lifepo4 cells.

#3 my BMS (current connected) automatically defaults to charge mode, so if I plug in the charge controller it won't power up. How can I change this?
 
Also after reviewing some designs I may have made a mistake with my current setup. My inverter is hooked directly to my main positive & negative, other designs have the inverter ground hooked up between the BMS ground and the charge controller. Thoughts?
 
Look at your BMS documentation. All the ones I've used have one lead of the BMS connectoed to the battery, the other lead from the BMS is the battery negative. There shouldn't be anything but the BMS connected to the negative lead of the battery itself, otherwise the BMS isn't going to work properly for you.
 
Even in low light, panels will be expected to be producing close to their max voltage. It's the amperage that goes way down with increasing clouds.

The proper way to set up your new controller is to connect the controller to the battery first. Only after the controller has booted up on battery voltage should you connect the solar input. Do you have a breaker for the incoming solar? If it's breakered, then you just flip it back to on. If you have to connect MC-4 connections to make it work, connecting connectors is not as bad as disconnecting connectors. That's when you really need to worry about arcing.

Without a breaker, either do it in low light, or throw a blanket over the panels to cut down the current. Wear gloves of course.

The inverter should always be directly connected to the battery terminals, though there should be a fuse/breaker on the positive lead.
 
MichaelK said:
Even in low light, panels will be expected to be producing close to their max voltage. It's the amperage that goes way down with increasing clouds.

The proper way to set up your new controller is to connect the controller to the battery first. Only after the controller has booted up on battery voltage should you connect the solar input. Do you have a breaker for the incoming solar? If it's breakered, then you just flip it back to on. If you have to connect MC-4 connections to make it work, connecting connectors is not as bad as disconnecting connectors. That's when you really need to worry about arcing.

Without a breaker, either do it in low light, or throw a blanket over the panels to cut down the current. Wear gloves of course.

The inverter should always be directly connected to the battery terminals, though there should be a fuse/breaker on the positive lead.
Click to expand...
Ok I'm with you on all of this. Where I'm currently stuck is the BMS. for the life of me I can't figure out how to put it on discharge mode.
 
Nevermind. I hate the Android version of this app. Switch function did the trick.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Charge controller problems
Replies
4
Views
145
time2roll
T
H
Battery Charger to Charge Controller
Replies
4
Views
295
Hosstyle
H
G
Help me understanding my Solar charger controller display information
Replies
6
Views
253
gerardlu
G
S
Battery Disconnect (Blue Sea 6010 or similar) for Solar Disconnect in RV?
Replies
3
Views
143
Dynoman
Dynoman
OurVentures
Last Look before Starting the install
Replies
0
Views
127
OurVentures
OurVentures
Back
Top