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diy solar

Van Conversion Wiring Diagram, Please Review

smoothJoey said:
Anyone object to removing the chassis bond?
Since we haven't used the grounding lug on the solar charge controller its a bit pointless.
Click to expand...
Why not add the SCC grounding wire (and possible future inverter grounding wire) instead of removing the chassis bond?
 
Code: 
legend {
    // { comment }
    {} { functional block }
    nnn|NNN| { fused busbar position where nnn is wire size in awg and NNN is the fuse rating in amps }
    nnn|UUU| { un-fused busbar position where nnn is wire size in awg }
    <-> { bi-directional current flow }
    -> { uni-directional current flow }
    <- { uni-directional current flow }
    dpst { double pole single through switch }
    @ { back reference }
}
dc_domain { // 12 volt chassis bonded system
    busbars {
        positive {
                                      |->inline_fuse->shunt_positive
            004|UUU|<->150A_breaker<->|<->battery
            006|100|<-scc<-dpst<-panels(10awg)
            006|100|->battery_protect->fuse_block.feeders
            004|125|->future_inverter
        }
        negative {
            004|UUU|<->shunt<->battery
            006|UUU|->scc->dpst->panels(10awg)
            006|UUU|<-fuse_block.feeders
            004|UUU|<-future_inverter
            006|UUU|<->scc_grounding_lug
            006|UUU|<->future_inverter_grounding_lug
            006|UUU|<->chassis_bond
        }
    }
    fuse_block {
        feeders {
            positive@
            negative@
        }
        branches {
            positive {
                012|020|->fan
                012|020|->fridge
                012|020|->combo socket
                012|020|->combo socket
            }
            negative {
                012|UUU|<-fan
                012|UUU|<-fridge
                012|UUU|<-combo_socket
                012|UUU|<-combo_socket
                016|UUU|<-battery_protect_ground
            }
        }
    }
}
 
Last edited:
smoothJoey said:
Correct.
Click to expand...
smoothJoey said:
006|100|<-scc<-dpst<-panels(10awg)
Click to expand...
smoothJoey said:
006|100|->battery_protect->fuse_block.feeders
Click to expand...
Just to be clear. We changed these from the 100A fuses to 80A fuses in my other final legend. You don't have to repost another drawing, but keep them at 80A right?
smoothJoey said:
This would be a good inverter for your system
Click to expand...
I was looking at that one on donrowe.com and the 1000w pst. Just can't justify the cost yet for what I predict is something I'll use very little at this point. Maybe I'll find I need one after I actually start living in the van. I got caught in a loop of trying to justify a $200 1000w Giandel or Voltworks, but I know if I'm gonna put money into an inverter, I don't want to settle on a low quality inverter for a low price. I'm all about investing in something that's quality with less margin for issues, it's just gotta be practical (something I actually need).
 
dudedogvan said:
Just to be clear. We changed these from the 100A fuses to 80A fuses in my other final legend. You don't have to repost another drawing, but keep them at 80A right?

I was looking at that one on donrowe.com and the 1000w pst. Just can't justify the cost yet for what I predict is something I'll use very little at this point. Maybe I'll find I need one after I actually start living in the van. I got caught in a loop of trying to justify a $200 1000w Giandel or Voltworks, but I know if I'm gonna put money into an inverter, I don't want to settle on a low quality inverter for a low price. I'm all about investing in something that's quality with less margin for issues, it's just gotta be practical (something I actually need).
Click to expand...
The victron battery protect needs a slightly smaller fuse so we to consolidate the bill of materials to 80 amp fuses on 6 awg wires.
 
I know I don't have to but what the heck.
Code: 
legend {
    // { comment }
    {} { functional block }
    nnn|NNN| { fused busbar position where nnn is wire size in awg and NNN is the fuse rating in amps }
    nnn|UUU| { un-fused busbar position where nnn is wire size in awg }
    <-> { bi-directional current flow }
    -> { uni-directional current flow }
    <- { uni-directional current flow }
    dpst { double pole single through switch }
    @ { back reference }
}
dc_domain { // 12 volt chassis bonded system
    busbars {
        positive {
                                      |->inline_fuse->shunt_positive
            004|UUU|<->150A_breaker<->|<->battery
            006|080|<-scc<-dpst<-panels(10awg)
            006|080|->battery_protect->fuse_block.feeders
            004|125|->future_inverter
        }
        negative {
            004|UUU|<->shunt<->battery
            006|UUU|->scc->dpst->panels(10awg)
            006|UUU|<-fuse_block.feeders
            004|UUU|<-future_inverter
            006|UUU|<->scc_grounding_lug
            006|UUU|<->future_inverter_grounding_lug
            006|UUU|<->chassis_bond
        }
    }
    fuse_block {
        feeders {
            positive@
            negative@
        }
        branches {
            positive {
                012|020|->fan
                012|020|->fridge
                012|020|->combo socket
                012|020|->combo socket
            }
            negative {
                012|UUU|<-fan
                012|UUU|<-fridge
                012|UUU|<-combo_socket
                012|UUU|<-combo_socket
                016|UUU|<-battery_protect_ground
            }
        }
    }
}
 
dudedogvan said:
Also, so now I'm wiring the scc grounding lug and the scc battery output negative to the negative bus, why do I need 2 negatives from the scc to ground? What's the advantage to doing this?
Click to expand...
One is a current carrying conductor the other is for equi-potential to the chassis.
It is also useful to clear faults.
It is sized to blow the fuse in case the positive wire shorts to the case internally.

For a 12 volt system its not essential but @rmaddy wants it.

The word ground has so much baggage I suggest we don't use that word.
 
If you haven't bought ferrules (or crimpers) yet, check out ferrulesdirect.com. That's where I bought my ferrule kit. High quality, but it's not inexpensive.

Round ferrule crimpers are sweet, if you're putting the ferrules in round holes. Most terminals are better off with square crimps. There are a small number of round holes in my system, such as my equipment ground bus bar and the AC in/out on the Multiplus inverter.

1648228412311.png
 
There are few things more satisfying in this world than nicely crimped ferrule.
 
HRTKD said:
If you haven't bought ferrules (or crimpers) yet, check out ferrulesdirect.com. That's where I bought my ferrule kit. High quality, but it's not inexpensive.

Round ferrule crimpers are sweet, if you're putting the ferrules in round holes. Most terminals are better off with square crimps. There are a small number of round holes in my system, such as my equipment ground bus bar and the AC in/out on the Multiplus inverter.
Click to expand...
6awg 18mm pin insulated ferrules
10awg 18mm pin insulated ferrules

So that's what I found for ferrules on ferrulesdirect.com. I only need 2*10awg ferrules and 2*6awg ferrules for the PVin to SCC and Batteryout of SCC. This is the cheapest I could find with the least ferrules. Each size is a pack of 10. I was gonna go for 12mm pins but decided on 18 and if I need to cut off length I will.
smoothJoey said:
There are few things more satisfying in this world than nicely crimped ferrule.
Click to expand...
Sadly, I don't feel like spending another 20 bucks on ferrule crimpers is worth it for something I don't plan to take with me in the van and that I'm just gonna use for 4 ferrules. I plan to just do my best with wire crimpers and move on. It'd be nice to make a killer ferrule crimp, but for 4 ferrules... nah. Unless I have to in order to fit the ferrules into the SCC?
 
dudedogvan said:
6awg 18mm pin insulated ferrules
10awg 18mm pin insulated ferrules
Click to expand...
What are the 10 awg ferrules for?
I thought you were using 12 awg as the default low current wire size.
dudedogvan said:
So that's what I found for ferrules on ferrulesdirect.com. I only need 2*10awg ferrules and 2*6awg ferrules for the PVin to SCC and Batteryout of SCC. This is the cheapest I could find with the least ferrules. Each size is a pack of 10. I was gonna go for 12mm pins but decided on 18 and if I need to cut off length I will.


Sadly, I don't feel like spending another 20 bucks on ferrule crimpers is worth it for something I don't plan to take with me in the van and that I'm just gonna use for 4 ferrules. I plan to just do my best with wire crimpers and move on. It'd be nice to make a killer ferrule crimp, but for 4 ferrules... nah. Unless I have to in order to fit the ferrules into the SCC?
Click to expand...
For mechanical lugs that push a set screw into a tiny halfpipe I like to let the set screw crimp the terminal.
If the mechanical lug is like a vice with flat surfaces then a square corrugated crimp is really good.

I'm going to go try some 12awg ferrules in my ring terminal crimpers.
@HRTKD what would you do if you had to improvise.
 
smoothJoey said:
What are the 10 awg ferrules for?
I thought you were using 12 awg as the default low current wire size.

For mechanical lugs that push a set screw into a tiny halfpipe I like to let the set screw crimp the terminal.
If the mechanical lug is like a vice with flat surfaces then a square corrugated crimp is really good.

I'm going to go try some 12awg ferrules in my ring terminal crimpers.
@HRTKD what would you do if you had to improvise.
Click to expand...
For the 12awg low current appliance fuse block wire I planned to use ring terminals to connect to the fuse block. The 10awg is solar extension wire from the panels to the SCC. I plan to use small rings terminals to connect to the DPST on both sides (DPST switch I found has small screw connections that I seem to like better than a switch with spade connections). Then I'm using the 10awg ferrules to go into the SCC.
 
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