Keep the magic smoke off my boat!!- please review my wiring diagram

[chris_the boat dude]

Hello, looking for peer review and critique for my proposed wiring schematic on my 45ft glass fiber sailboat. This is edition 1 so I expect there to be some faults.
This was drawn using draw.io with the addition of a Victron products html file and many copy pasted images off the web. Very simple but very time consuming. There is a great video on you tube about the basic operation of draw.io (search REC BMS diagram net demo)
Following are some initial questions I have:

1. Starter circuit – grounded to engine – no other return to starter or alternator. How it was (is) setup by marine electrician. Normal? Problematic?

1. is the engine block my ground for all systems (starter/12v/24v/220v) ... should I be setting up a grounding plate/bus? As opposed to running the 2x50mm cables direct to engine block.

1. Grounding in general – this topic seems widely accepted as extremely confusing… I agree… what corrections need to made to my proposed grounding.

1. 2x Orion tr smarts isolated for starter -> house charging - the units I have are the isolated versions. The starter batteries are grounded to the engine block. I assume they will still function perfectly well, im just curious about what this does the ísolation of the units

1. 2x Orion tr smarts isolated for starter -> house charging - 30 amp mrbf fuses at the battery post as per recommended in manual… minimum fuse available for lynx distributor is 40 amps…problem?

Worth noting:

• I understand that the dual 17A Orion TR´s will draw 75% of the capacity of the 45amp alternator. In the future I hope to upgrade the current alternator. For the mean time I will monitor closely the temperature with a flir camera and act accordingly. (wondering if it is possible to derate the orions on the app?)
• No cerbo gx at this stage. May use a raspberry pie in the future with Venus software. For now im happy monitoring via apps/mk3 adapter.

Thank you very much in advance,
Chris

 

[Bop]

At a quick glance, looks good- I'd be changing the starter motor cutoff switch to a 500A personally (you are running it right at its limits with the 300A one) but apart from that looks ok...

With a 'glass' boat, you have less to worry about, and you have galvanic isolation anyway so thats covered (a steel boat without it on shore power can be a nightmare- both for the owner and the owners of other boats nearby- one tiny crack in the paint on the hull, and over time, it literally eats a pinhole through the steel hull- doesn't make you popular when it is someone elses hull thats had the hole put in it for some reason...
;-)

Re the alternator- a lot of it is most alternators have insufficient cooling to run at full output for extended periods- it is often possible to fit larger air volume cooling fans (these are available for many alternators in the RV world, including some 'shrouded' forced airflow styles)- but upgrading to a larger alternator is probably the best option
Replacing the 'tinplate' bent tab fan for a diecast high flow one can markedly improve alternator cooling, but an upgrade to a larger alternator would probably be a better bet long term- you can never have too much power lol

 

[Bop]

double