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Battery discharge in a parallel system

TSHANK

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Aug 5, 2022
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I have two brand new Lion Energy 105 amp hour batteries that were installed in my R/V in parallel configuration, both batteries showed they were fully charged using the built in meter on the battery and the Lion Energy Bluetooth app. there is a shunt installed as well, the instruction for the shunt tell you to discharge both batteries to calibrate the discharged state and then recharge them to set the fully charged state. My R/V has 800 watts of solar, and a lithium compatible onboard charger. I turned off the charging devices to start the discharge, and using the Lion app checked on the discharge rate and found that only one battery is discharging. I performed a battery reset per the Lion instructions and repeated the discharge still only one battery discharging per the app. I turned the solar and onboard chargers back on when the and see that the discharged battery is now charging. Anyone have any idea whats going on? Thank you!
 
What voltage is each bms reading when not charging?

Did you check the bms to verify discharge is enabled?

There may be a voltage differential keeping one bms from enabling discharge. When charging does one battery take significantly more current?
 
and found that only one battery is discharging.
Can you post a pic that shows how your battery is wired?
Is the main positive wire connected to one battery and the main negative wire connected to the other? (this would be a good balanced configuration).
 
What voltage is each bms reading when not charging?

Did you check the bms to verify discharge is enabled?

There may be a voltage differential keeping one bms from enabling discharge. When charging does one battery take significantly more current?
I’m not sure how to do what you are suggesting, the Bluetooth app for the batteries shows temperature and voltage both batteries were at 13.43 when I started the discharge
 

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You'll want to review these items:

1. how "lion energy" (vendor) allows you to hook up multiple batteries. they may or may not have rules (and sample diagrams) that show how to hook up their batteries in series, or in paralllel, or series-parallel, both for best output and for best charging results. This is more of a rules check to make sure the vendor's BMS supports the configuration you want to use.

2. best practices for hooking up the configuration you choose. Cable lengths, as in equal lengths for equal duties, vs whatever you have laying around. appropriate diameters of cable. very short cables between paired batteries' posts. equal lengths for the cables that feed power from the battery bank to the inverter. Busbars where possible, to help manage loads, allow for battery-bank expansion, etc.

Your one pic seems to show two 12vXXXah batteries in parallel (interconnects of pos2pos and neg2neg, and inverter cables running from one batt's pos, and another inverter cable from other batt's neg. It's perhaps not best practice to load up all conns on a batt post, vs trying to get in busbars. All those conns on a batt post need to be really good, really clean, really tight ... or just implement a clean busbar. Busbars also help in managing battery cable lengths, which must be equal in the same function (paralleling the batteries, or feeding the inverter).

These folks will help you get to an ideal battery cabling scheme:


And these folks will help you master battery arrangements, charging concepts, etc.:


Numerous vids on youtube explaining this in detail, and showing battery wiring ... you'll possibly find an exact match to your battery configuration, but with best practices followed and laid out for you.

Hope this helps ...
 
Others have already indicated some tests to run through, to see if each battery is putting out power individually. Your battery manual (or the vendor's email or support line) might also have troubleshooting info that covers:

1. how to wake up a battery BMS that has gone into safety mode, and isolated itself

2. how to get a pair of batterys up to fully charge level, and how to balance them after that (paralleling for 24 hours, or whatever), and then putting them into your final configuration.

So, you might want to break apart the battery-bank, test each battery individually, get them fully charged & tested with your multimeter, and paired correctly for the balance period per your battery vendor's manual, and finally, back into a good battery-bank configuration for your inverter.

Hope this helps ....
 
Others have already indicated some tests to run through, to see if each battery is putting out power individually. Your battery manual (or the vendor's email or support line) might also have troubleshooting info that covers:

1. how to wake up a battery BMS that has gone into safety mode, and isolated itself

2. how to get a pair of batterys up to fully charge level, and how to balance them after that (paralleling for 24 hours, or whatever), and then putting them into your final configuration.

So, you might want to break apart the battery-bank, test each battery individually, get them fully charged & tested with your multimeter, and paired correctly for the balance period per your battery vendor's manual, and finally, back into a good battery-bank configuration for your inverter.

Hope this helps ....
My plan is to remove the battery that is charging and discharging from the set and only leave the one that seems dormant and try again. I will also call the support line tomorrow. Thank you.
 
Battery connection looks symmetric, should be balanced in current draw.

So, you might want to break apart the battery-bank, test each battery individually, get them fully charged & tested with your multimeter, and paired correctly for the balance period per your battery vendor's manual, and finally, back into a good battery-bank configuration for your inverter.

Try disconnecting the battery that's working. See if the one that does nothing will discharge and charge, when there isn't anyone else to do the work for it.

Make sure both are charged back to similar voltages before connecting in parallel later. Maybe complete the connection with some resistance (e.g. long wire if not an actual resistor or light bulb) to avoid high current. Wait until voltage across that drops to zero before hard connecting.
 

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