Video explaining my problem with my install
- Thread starter randerson
- Start date
Upper management sucks....lol. I have 58 employed and can not leave until the job is done. I had to do 13 hours yesterday. I went to 2 places to get cables and Anderson connectors for the new cables on my lunch yesterday. I got copper 3/8 ends but could not get Anderson connectors. Today i was supposed to be off at 3 but had to stay till 5:30. On my lunch today i went to a few more places with no success. Tomorrow i do not go in till 11am. I am going to get up early and will post a video. . I will search and find local.
YES , I know i can order them cheap online.... BUT THE WAIT SUCKS.....
14 hour days don't give me much free time.
look for an update before noon tomorrow
Single malt scotch or after dinner brandy and a cigar here... never beer.
Highland park 12 year or a nice heavy peated laphroaig 10 year
I have it set up to do single phase 110, not 220 split phase yet, and i have ZERO LOAD. As long as it gets 48v it does not care how many amp hour i have. Amp hours are run time and Volts are power. The 200 amp hours are recommended so the inverter last at full power more than ten minutes before going dead. It is just giving you a heads up that at full power it will be an amp hog. More batteries will be added later.... dang they are expensive so it will take a little time (unless you want to send me some for free).
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
WAIT !! are you working tomorrow?? R U doing anything right now ?? We (ok I) all know its just the cables -- just swap out the cables and tell everyone that a certain RF goddess was correct ... seriously - If i had known you needed cable or Anderson connectors I would have FedEx overnight them to you ... I can't believe I stayed sober for this ... Its Friday night in the middle of the Texas desert -- THIS was going to be my entertainment for the evening ... Now its going to be either Netflix bingeing - or playing Dominoes - or playing cards -- aaagghhh ...
we will about double the size of the wire tomorrow and prove them wrong.WAIT !! are you working tomorrow?? R U doing anything right now ?? We (ok I) all know its just the cables -- just swap out the cables and tell everyone that a certain RF goddess was correct ... seriously - If i had known you needed cable or Anderson connectors I would have FedEx overnight them to you ... I can't believe I stayed sober for this ... Its Friday night in the middle of the Texas desert -- THIS was going to be my entertainment for the evening ... Now its going to be either Netflix bingeing - or playing Dominoes - or playing cards -- aaagghhh ...
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
Doesn't matter. You gotta fill them caps up whether you have a load or not. If it's the cable, I owe you a scotch. Will a Talisker 10 do?
Thanks for giving us all something to look forward to tomorrow.
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
So probably not important at this juncture but just so you know for the future -- this is a difference between 8AWG Aluminum Clad (which is what i think you have) and 8AWG copper or copper stranded ... of course if you are pushing 54 volts through any 8AWG cable - with the distance you are going - then you are fine ... BUT if you are ever setting up longer runs and the chart calls for 8AWG - thats normally 8AWG copper which is really like 6AWG Aluminum Clad (don't quote me - just making a point) ...
Maybe I can't see the pic clearly enough but it seems the new wire is 6AWG.... but I'm half blind so what do I know.
I bet it's not a problem with the MPP Solar...lol. I have been amused with this thread more so than any other.
It looks like the OP is going from 8awg to 6awg. That is not doubling the size?
It looks like the OP is going from 8awg to 6awg. That is not doubling the size?
Yeah that's what I am thinking. How much current does it take to charge the caps. Isn't the BMS on that battery rated at 60 amps?
svetz
Works in theory! Practice? That's something else
I got up at 3 A.M. just for this... and still no video!!
Sunny Days
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$20.
That its the BMS shuting down because of the inrush current.
That its the BMS shuting down because of the inrush current.
thealaskan
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Is it possible to return the battery? So you can purchase the amp hrs you need. Or a different chemistry.
I've got 4 lv2424's, 220 volt split phase on, 4 Byd 24 volts in parallel, and with some load. with no solar at least 12 hrs
Yours, rough math is; 6 battery's per hr no Load?
mandrews44
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The current capacity of that battery is too small, THIS IS NOT THE CABLE.
This was some fine entertainment to see everyone except for a few overlook the obvious.. ROFL
1> The battery voltage after turning the inverter on is 0.. BATTERY, After the cable is disconnected..
2> ALL inverters have large capaciters and tend to make a huge spark if you connect them manually.
3> This battery is only rated at 60 amps (2,880 watts). That inverter is rated at 5000 watts.. It's capaciters need a lot of juice to build.
4> Turning the battery on and off again is just resetting the BMS shutdown that was proved in #1 after the cable was disconnected and voltage tested on the BATTERY.
So, This is an issue with Inrush current. The 63A breaker is shutting down so it can not be the cable. Replacing the cable will NOT fix this issue and only make it worse actually.. The # of times necessary for it to work is = requirement / (Amps delievered / time before cutoff). Once the caps are charged enough to not trigger the 63A breaker, everything works.
Unfortunately, I also have to chime in on the dangers here. You need 2 of those batteries if you want to use this inverter and they will not handle any momentary spiking you might see with fridges turning on, etc. Should you get the 63A breaker to stop shutting down the output, you will have additional problems after due to Amp limiting on the Breaker (63A) and BMS (65a) should you exceed 2800 watts usage. The switch breaker is turning this off before the BMS. You are resetting that each time you turn it off and on until the capaciters are charged. This is caused by an underpowered source.
Specs from website: Breaker: 63A, BMS: 65A
Li-ion (NMC) is known to get very angry when something goes wrong and its self distruction is in the range of 1500c, not F. I personally would never use this chemistry for a solar installation when the cost of LiFePo4 is dropping dramatically. Unless there was a breakthrough with NMC that makes them safer (they used Tesla's chemistry?), I would be sending that back and building a LiFePo4 bank that can handle 5kw load, not capacity.
I agree with others, the current cable (no pun intended) is adeqate due to the voltage used. This issue is the breaker (Battery Switch) you are turning on and off is tripping due to inrush current caused by the inverter capaciters and will eventually be turning off with a load > 3000 watts.
This was some fine entertainment to see everyone except for a few overlook the obvious.. ROFL
1> The battery voltage after turning the inverter on is 0.. BATTERY, After the cable is disconnected..
2> ALL inverters have large capaciters and tend to make a huge spark if you connect them manually.
3> This battery is only rated at 60 amps (2,880 watts). That inverter is rated at 5000 watts.. It's capaciters need a lot of juice to build.
4> Turning the battery on and off again is just resetting the BMS shutdown that was proved in #1 after the cable was disconnected and voltage tested on the BATTERY.
So, This is an issue with Inrush current. The 63A breaker is shutting down so it can not be the cable. Replacing the cable will NOT fix this issue and only make it worse actually.. The # of times necessary for it to work is = requirement / (Amps delievered / time before cutoff). Once the caps are charged enough to not trigger the 63A breaker, everything works.
Unfortunately, I also have to chime in on the dangers here. You need 2 of those batteries if you want to use this inverter and they will not handle any momentary spiking you might see with fridges turning on, etc. Should you get the 63A breaker to stop shutting down the output, you will have additional problems after due to Amp limiting on the Breaker (63A) and BMS (65a) should you exceed 2800 watts usage. The switch breaker is turning this off before the BMS. You are resetting that each time you turn it off and on until the capaciters are charged. This is caused by an underpowered source.
Specs from website: Breaker: 63A, BMS: 65A
Li-ion (NMC) is known to get very angry when something goes wrong and its self distruction is in the range of 1500c, not F. I personally would never use this chemistry for a solar installation when the cost of LiFePo4 is dropping dramatically. Unless there was a breakthrough with NMC that makes them safer (they used Tesla's chemistry?), I would be sending that back and building a LiFePo4 bank that can handle 5kw load, not capacity.
I agree with others, the current cable (no pun intended) is adeqate due to the voltage used. This issue is the breaker (Battery Switch) you are turning on and off is tripping due to inrush current caused by the inverter capaciters and will eventually be turning off with a load > 3000 watts.
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mandrews44
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Actually it is the Breaker (battery switch) that shuts it down at 63 amps but I'll add to that bet.. so, it is now $40 if a larger wire fixes this issue. LOL
mandrews44
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While I would rather build it myself, here is the battery I'd recommend over the one you have. It is the same price, Inrush capibility is 130 amps but it is not nearly as pretty. You will need multiple based on how long you want backup power. This does not state that it has a BMS.. A BMS is a requirement in my book. Something you'd have to ask about if you also think it is important.
bigbattery.com
36V A123 LiFePO4 Battery – BigBattery.com
bigbattery.com
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
Actually it’s a six pack of beer, bottle of scotch, and $40 if the cable fixes it. Pretty good pot. Sadly nothing has been put up by the other side.
Edit: was writing this as the video came out. Looks like nobody’s getting paid.
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thealaskan
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How about this, back yard mechanics 101, 4 car batteries, jumper cables, hook up in series, it will tell you if it is mpp, or the battery.
You should have some available for a test?
IT IS NOT THE MPP it is most likely the BMS try and bypass it. Just to test.
That battery will work fine with the MPP in my opinion even with a light load.
.
@ghostwriter66 maybe next time you can hold my beer.
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
Unfortunately you are fixated on one part of a post (200Ah) that isn't the main gist. The point is that you need a battery bank capable of supplying enough current to fill the inverter capacitors. Your battery bank can't do it because it's limited to 60A or 63A (depending on whether we believe the label on the BMS or the battery listing, it's the BMS or the breaker that's limiting you). It's not the Ah rating of the battery that's at issue. It's the fact that it can't deliver more than 60ish amps before cutting off.
Also, you state that you're using Will's recommended battery. You are not. He recommends LiFePO4. You bought Li-ion NMC.
Read @mandrews44 posts from right before you posted your latest video.
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