Cables are small but I think there is something internal in the battery like a BMS that is overcurrent limiting the output. Even those small wires without a load should start the lv 5048 just fine.
Video explaining my problem with my install
- Thread starter randerson
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thealaskan
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That is a 48 volt unit on a 24 volt battery, that will not work.
The battery is reading, and he also measures, 54v. I assume the cabinet is not holding a 24v BYD module, but something else.
Randerson, can you rig up a decent load at the battery output (right at the battery, nothing else connected), and read the volts then? To rule out the bms.
If he had a 24v battery how is reading 57 volts
thealaskan
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The meter on those battery packs are 100% adjustable.
I know i just adjusted mine.
there is no 48 volt battery in that cabinet, that I know of.
you cant have 48 volts 200 ah in that physical size.
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
The easy way to know what size cable you need is to pull up one of theio wire/amp charts on the internet ... and input your voltage and amps and distance and it will tell you that size you need ...
Glad that you started out with a DVM this time ... LOL
For a quick fix I would cut the cable extremely near the smaller Anderson you have ... and then connect the thicker wire to that .. and use that until you can do it right ...
and on behalf of all of us -- Thank you for not clicking it for 5 1/2 minutes to make your point ... LOL .. I crack myself up ...
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
also -- can you go to the first post you have and in big letters say -- FIXED .. thanks .. it will keep 20 ppl trying to solve something thats already fixed
It's not fixed though.
What about his DVM do you think he is faking that?
He bought the unit from Ian on Ebay through one of Will Prowses' affiliate links. Ian has a very good reputation and if I were to buy one from him I would be totally comfortable handing him cash!
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thealaskan
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My mistake, I didn't see the new video, I looked on the web site he got it from according to the video, couldn't find it, I guess i'm wrong or something is not right with the battery opening the cabinet will definitely tell, this is what i know and have seen, and got.And yet both meters disagree with you ..
John Frum
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BMS's should have a led status light in series with a momentary switch so that one can easily see if they are online or not.
They should... but I've yet to see it.
My guess is there is something wrong with BMS. I recommend to see if you can find a way to pre charge the inverter capacitators.
My theory is that your switching on and off of the battery is slowly charging the caps each time until they are full enough to not trip the BMS or whatever is causing the problem.
Sorry this is all a big guess from afar
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
I think we figured out its the battery cables .. probably some cheap ass aluminum stuff - under gauged and melted first time he fired it up
I've got a 6 pack of your favorite beer that it is not the cables.
thealaskan
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Nice never seen one.
First off I could be wayyyy wrong but often times we pre charge inverter Caps with a resistor to slow down the charge process. so if the cables were too small they would act as a resistor and still charge the Caps. Im still willing to bet ghost but am not saying that im right for sure. There is no harm enlarging the wires and it should be done in any case
also that is a 60 amp BMS listed is a 65 amp and I am curious as to how it would handle 130A discharge
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