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Renogy DC DC Charger w/ MPPT

No one mentions setting up for 600 watts? Since limiting amps because of the branch connectors, could a combiner box be used?

A lot of interest in this unit for sure.....still on my radar for later this year.....
 
RandyP said:
You might want to think about the current flowing in each ground cable, how it relates to where the cables are terminated. I think it is correct to use one 4AWG in the case you note above.
Click to expand...
Can't fix my stupid too often. But I will try here. I was wrong, the ampacity of the one "-" wire from the the buss bar to the MCC50S "-" term point should be equal to the max solar panel "+" wire current plus the max Starter Battery "+" current plus the Battery Bank "+' current. That might be 3x9.85+75+65~180 amp wire. Could that be right ? Probably not, because the device only allows concurrent solar and start battery ampacity of 25A each for 50 amps total. The output to the Battery Bank is limited to 50A max. I think that the max ampacity of the one "-" wire should be 100 A. It might be a very short wire so perhaps voltage drop may not be significant (#6 AWG min wire size). I am using a #4 AWG wire for this. What do you think ?
 
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bcolins said:
Will, I plan on adopting your blueprint for the 400 watt plan with the above Renogy DC to DC controller and due to very limited roof space on my Sprinter RV, wanted to use 2 x 200 watt glass panels,....You previously had a recommended set of 200 watt glass panels, but they are no longer listed. Are there no acceptable 200 watt panels available in your opinion? Brian Collins Austin, TX (Village Farm Tiny Home community)
Click to expand...
Group,......I was looking for my above post to edit it,.....and lo and behold,.....noticed that this very topic is being discussed just above my post,.....apologies for the redundant nature of the post,....and will now go read and learn. Brian in Austin
 
Lonesome Cowboy said:
Want to buy one of the 100 amp MMPT, but they told me 6 weeks to deliver to Wyoming.
Click to expand...
Who are "they" ?
Is this the one, available at home depot webb order, pick up at your local home depot In Ft. Collins, July 10-15 ?
www.homedepot.com

Renogy Rover Li 48-Volt 100 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller Auto LED Display RNG-CTRL-RVR100 - The Home Depot

Introducing the new 100 Amp Rover MPPT Charge Controller, the largest Rover controller that Renogy has to offer. Capable of supporting up to 1300-Watt on 12-Volt, 2600-Watt on 24-Volt, 3900-Watt on 36-Volt
www.homedepot.com
 
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RandyP said:
Safer is a subjective judgement.
I am using HighTec Solar panels, rated at 210 w, they also have 200 W panels.
www.continuousresources.com

Hightec Solar 215W 36 Cell 12V Nominal Solar Panel - 5 Bus bar

Description HIGHTEC SOLAR 215W 36-cell 12V nominal solar panel is a photovoltaic module designed to convert sunlight into electrical energy. This Solar panel has a power rating of 215 watts. This indicates the maximum amount of power the panel can generate under ideal conditions, typically full...
www.continuousresources.com www.continuousresources.com
www.continuousresources.com

Hightec Solar 200W 36 Cell 12V Nominal Solar Panel - 5 Busbar - UL Listed

Description HIGHTEC SOLAR 200W 36-cell 12V nominal solar panel is a photovoltaic module designed to convert sunlight into electrical energy. This Solar panel has a power rating of 200 watts. This indicates the maximum amount of power the panel can generate under ideal conditions, typically full...
www.continuousresources.com www.continuousresources.com
You might also check out NewPowa 200 W panel.
www.newpowa.com

200W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel

Newpowa 200W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel is commonly used in RV, marine, overlanding, traffic signals and various off-grid applications. Top experienced American solar panel brand. Free shipping!
www.newpowa.com www.newpowa.com
For safety, compare the panels ratings with the MCC50S specs. Stay within the MCC50S specs for safety.
Click to expand...
RandyP said:
Yes, run all the - circuits (as you itemized) to the - bus bar, then one negative from - BB to MCC50S controller. I suggested this before. It would be difficult to get three - circuit termlugs on the MCC50S - term point. I see that you have not added the three switch/CB's I suggested previoussly. You have not yet added a main fuse for the battery either.
Click to expand...
RandyP said:
Yes, run all the - circuits (as you itemized) to the - bus bar, then one negative from - BB to MCC50S controller. I suggested this before. It would be difficult to get three - circuit termlugs on the MCC50S - term point. I see that you have not added the three switch/CB's I suggested previoussly. You have not yet added a main fuse for the battery either.
Click to expand...
Hey @RandyP thanks for your response.

here's the updated diagram. You said I don't have a main fuse for the battery in there..? I have the 60A ANL fuse (circled in pink) - not sure where else you would be talking about?? Happy to replace that 60A ANL for an equivalent rated CB to ensue the DCC50S cab be easily isolated. I got a green square in place of where I'll put the CB off the + Solar panel as you've suggested. In your most recent message you mentioned "... the three switch/ CB's you mentioned earlier" - where do you think I need another CB?

Also, I order and received another Renogy 500A monitor (RBM500) incase the indication of "inversely connected terminals" was happen due to a defective bit of gear - I hooked the new RBM500 up today and sadly, with the starter batter connected and car running (charge being sent into the DCC50S) the backlight of the RBM immediately starts blinking again (which as per the RMB500 manual indicates B- and P- terminals are "inversely connected" :(((

1593857807182.png
 
whoops sorry I think my reply seems to have been to the wrong message (I'm pretty new to forums... sorry..)
 
RandyP said:
You might want to think about the current flowing in each ground cable, how it relates to where the cables are terminated. I think it is correct to use one 4AWG in the case you note above.
Click to expand...
I'm using 4AWG everywhere.
 
harley said:
Hey @RandyP thanks for your response.

here's the updated diagram. You said I don't have a main fuse for the battery in there..? I have the 60A ANL fuse (circled in pink) - not sure where else you would be talking about?? Happy to replace that 60A ANL for an equivalent rated CB to ensue the DCC50S cab be easily isolated. I got a green square in place of where I'll put the CB off the + Solar panel as you've suggested. In your most recent message you mentioned "... the three switch/ CB's you mentioned earlier" - where do you think I need another CB?

Also, I order and received another Renogy 500A monitor (RBM500) incase the indication of "inversely connected terminals" was happen due to a defective bit of gear - I hooked the new RBM500 up today and sadly, with the starter batter connected and car running (charge being sent into the DCC50S) the backlight of the RBM immediately starts blinking again (which as per the RMB500 manual indicates B- and P- terminals are "inversely connected" :(((

View attachment 16775
Click to expand...
OK, here's the suggestions.
Harley1.png
 
RandyP said:
Can't fix my stupid too often. But I will try here. I was wrong, the ampacity of the one "-" wire from the the buss bar to the MCC50S "-" term point should be equal to the max solar panel "+" wire current plus the max Starter Battery "+" current plus the Battery Bank "+' current. That might be 3x9.85+75+65~180 amp wire. Could that be right ? Probably not, because the device only allows concurrent solar and start battery ampacity of 25A each for 50 amps total. The output to the Battery Bank is limited to 50A max. I think that the max ampacity of the one "-" wire should be 100 A. It might be a very short wire so perhaps voltage drop may not be significant (#6 AWG min wire size). I am using a #4 AWG wire for this. What do you think ?
Click to expand...
I would use 4AWG as my minimum jumper, might step up to 2AWG. For your one short run, it shouldn't cast very much for that one.
 
Hi everyone, sorry for posting again. maybe the post got missed out.
i would like to seek some expertise from everyone here on how can i charge a solar generator using this DC-DC system that i intent to install in my vehicle.
generally i plan to have a small alternate lithium battery fixed in the vehicle to run some 12v items mainly LEDs(this battery will be permanently be in the vehicle)
but at the same time i would like to use a solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter rather than a 12v-220v inverter so i can take it out to use anywhere when i need to.

i have did a edit from will diagram which i was thinking where can i tap the solar generator into from the wiring to charge it up.
i hope someone can help me with this.

thank you.
dcdc.png
 
B_E_N said:
Hi everyone, sorry for posting again. maybe the post got missed out.
i would like to seek some expertise from everyone here on how can i charge a solar generator using this DC-DC system that i intent to install in my vehicle.
generally i plan to have a small alternate lithium battery fixed in the vehicle to run some 12v items mainly LEDs(this battery will be permanently be in the vehicle)
but at the same time i would like to use a solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter rather than a 12v-220v inverter so i can take it out to use anywhere when i need to.

i have did a edit from will diagram which i was thinking where can i tap the solar generator into from the wiring to charge it up.
i hope someone can help me with this.

thank you.
View attachment 16827
Click to expand...
From your post " solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter ".
You must be in Europe.
Make/model/part number of solar generator ?
 
RandyP said:
From your post " solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter ".
You must be in Europe.
Make/model/part number of solar generator ?
Click to expand...

Hi, i am from Singapore ??, we uses 220V here as well.
I am looking at either getting the ecoflow delta or bluetti AC200.
May i know you are asking for the model is it because different generator accept different charging voltage input thus placing the generator at different part of the diagram matters?
 
Sgt Raven said:
I don't understand the question. doesn't the DCC50S just use lugged cables for their hookups? I thought this thread was about the Renogy DCC50S.
Click to expand...
OOPs, DCC50S, not MCC50S. Yes, you are right.
The term points on the DCC50S just barely accepted my #4 wire (limited width channel) were you able to get #2 wire to fit ?
There are covers that go on the device and cover the wires. To use the covers the wire needs to fit in the slot.
I have interchanged MCC50S mistakenly for DCC50S in my last few posts. Sorry about this. I used the wrong term.


106531239_200306754677710_7535641064881812096_n (2).jpg
106596929_300490131136489_770683249715074255_n.jpg
 
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RandyP said:
OOPs, DCC50S, not MCC50S. Yes, you are right.
The term points on the DCC50S just barely accepted my #4 wire (limited width channel) were you able to get #2 wire to fit ?
I have interchanged MCC50S mistakenly for DCC50S in my last few posts. Sorry about this. I used the wrong term.
Click to expand...
I went with a KISAE DMT-1250, back when people were having issues with the DCC50S. The size difference between cable and lugs is about an 1/8th of an inch. Is it really that tight in there? You could file the lug to make it narrower, but that won't change the cable diameter.
 
Sgt Raven said:
I went with a KISAE DMT-1250, back when people were having issues with the DCC50S. The size difference between cable and lugs is about an 1/8th of an inch. Is it really that tight in there? You could file the lug to make it narrower, but that won't change the cable diameter.
Click to expand...
It's just a cable diameter thing to fit the cable in the slot provided for entry so the cover will go on. Not a lug thing. Check the pics.
How do you like the Kisea device. Can you change battery settings to your custom preferred settings with the Kisea ?
 
RandyP said:
It's just a cable diameter thing to fit the cable in the slot provided for entry so the cover will go on. Not a lug thing. Check the pics.
How do you like the Kisea device. Can you change battery settings to your custom preferred settings with the Kisea ?
Click to expand...
The difference in diameter between 2AWG and 4AWG TEMCo welding cable is 2mm or 0.082". Is the raceway for the cable that tight?
I did look at the pics, but can't tell for sure at the angles they were shot at.
If you say it won't fit, then OK.
Looking at it again, shorten the heat shrink so it ends before the short part of the raceway on the left in the pic. The heat shrink is probably adding as much to the diameter as stepping up from 4AWG to 2AWG.

Not my Circus, not my Monkeys.....
 
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It was my understanding that you installed #2 wire terminated on the DCC50S device. I was wondering how that worked out for you, because my #4 wire install was just right for the space in the device. Apparently you have never installed #2 wire on a DCC50S. No Circus, no Monkeys !
Sgt Raven said:
The difference in diameter between 2AWG and 4AWG TEMCo welding cable is 2mm or 0.082". Is the raceway for the cable that tight?
I did look at the pics, but can't tell for sure at the angles they were shot at.
If you say it won't fit, then OK.
Looking at it again, shorten the heat shrink so it ends before the short part of the raceway on the left in the pic. The heat shrink is probably adding as much to the diameter as stepping up from 4AWG to 2AWG.

Not my Circus, not my Monkeys.....
Click to expand...
 
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