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12v vs 48v- what am I missing

grebaba

New Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2023
Messages
81
Location
Fletcher, Oklahoma
I am building my 3KW system and went to a solar charge time calculator site and imputed my info.
On a 12V system my charge time showed to be 3.8 hr's.
With no other changes but going from 12V to 48V my charge time increased to over 18 hr's.
Why am I missing something here?
It seems that a 12V would be a better pick judging from the charge time alone.
I know about the cheaper wire pricing with 48V but why use 48V over 12V?
Thanks Greg.
 
I expect the site asked for battery size? If you left the amp hours the same when you changed to 48 volt, you made a battery that is 4 times larger than a 12 volt battery at the same amp hours.
 
Thanks
I never considered the battery size and left it at 800 AH. [AGM]
I live in a small town in Okla. and my goals with the solar is just for a back up and to run my shop lights and heaters to save a little money on my electric bill.
I have a Generac [14KW] for back up but last winter the temp's dropped to -17 F and they were cutting of some natural gas in certain area's. I would be in a bit of a pickle if they did that here as my Generac run's on NG.
What I have now is an 800W system I bought last winter to learn a little about solar.
This year I have 10 265W panels, 2 Epever 100 am cc's, one Renogy 40A cc that came with my first system.
I just received the EG4 3000 and 4 LI Time Lipo battery's and have plans for another EG4 3000 this summer.
I am in the process of building a shed to house everything in.
I don't plan to live off grid but just want to cover my bases in case of a bad time.
Greg
 
I live in a small town in Okla. and my goals with the solar is just for a back up and to run my shop lights and heaters to save a little money on my electric bill.
Please get a good estimate in kWh for your back up loads.

Even combustion heaters with a blower motor can be a bit of energy and can get pricey. Combustion generators are so cheap you don't notice the difference, but with the two small systems I built, I have found that "solar generator" and batteries are easily 50 times the price of an equivalent off the shelf combustion generator.

Next is establishing how you're going to run these critical loads and removing these loads to a separate panel can get pricey.

Another way is running these loads off an extension cord, but that is a bit sloppy and some of these might not be plugged into the wall and have their own circuit breaker. Without the critical loads panel, won't be able to power stuff in an outage and when the grid is good sell electricty back.

Another thing I'm trying to figure out is something like a Victron than could do load sharing and pulling from the grid, but can't sell back. Perhaps this could provide power for loads. Seems like an easy thing and I'm surprised it's not more popular, but its not that popular. If it even sends back a few hundred Wh of power, could trigger a something at the power company about an unpermitted build. For my area, selling the excess back or using the excess makes sense.

A dual fuel or conversion kit for your generator is probably a much more rational and money saving solution, but there is something to be said about the independence a solar build will get you.

I can see this costing you anywhere from a few hundred up to $30k depending on what you want.
 
I never considered the battery size and left it at 800 AH. [AGM]

A 12V 800Ah battery has 12x800=9,600Wh (9.6kWh) of power capacity.
A 48V 800Ah battery has 48x800=38,400Wh (38.4kWh) of power capacity. That's four times more. It will be roughly four times heavier and roughly four times more expensive.

Think of a Wh (watt-hours) as similar to a gallon of gasoline. Then your battery is a tank with a certain capacity, which is measured in Wh, not Ah. If you want to evaluate the same capacity of battery with a 12V vs a 48V volt system, use these values:
12V 800Ah
48V 200Ah
 
Thanks for the reply's. I am learning but at a slow pace.
I have a 100A load panel going into my new shed to carry the solar load into the house. I still need to purchase a transfer switch and decide what loads I will need in an emergency.
I will just run my fridge, freezer, coffee pot, tv, and pet heater bed's I have for my animals as of now.
The heaters just use 45W each and I have 4 of them.
I received my kill a watt yesterday and will try to figure out what I will need for power this coming week.
My generac will run on ng and propane but driving the 20 miles to fill the tank up every time I need to is a pain.
Another reason is my town does not allow propane because of a agreement with the gas company.
Would hate to get caught using propane.
I just finished reading the EG4 manual and it has load sharing in it.
You connect to the grid and it will charge your system when there is no solar and does not back feed to the grid.
Watt hours and amp hour's are some of the confusing things. I am not brilliant enough to understand all of this but will figure it out with the help of the people on this forum.
I don't have enough area for many more panels so will have to work with what I have.
Future purchase's I am planning are the extra EG4-3000, transfer switch and another 4 100 ah lipo's.
I think that will do everything I want to do but will wait and see.
Again
Thank's
Greg
 
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