chrisski
Solar Boondocker
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2020
- Messages
- 5,198
I‘m one of three people I know that have ditched the 12 volt battery.
I will say not much power goes down that tow hitch. If my leveling jacks died, the trailer 5 pin would not provide the 50 amps needed to raise or lower the Rv. This provides enough power for lighting and to operate the breaka, and will not charge a depleted battery in any reasonable time.
I simply put the 12 volt outputs to the old battery 12 volt bus. There’s a better and more complicated way of routing this directly to the RV Circuit breaker panel 13 volt input.How did you manage the merging of the tow vehicle 12vdc and the 24/12-70 Orion going to the 12vdc distribution
I did not remove it. It’s still connected and no issues.Remove the OEM battery, use the 24/12-70 to power 12v loads, block the 12v charge from the tow vehicle.
I don’t know that model, but I recommend an Victron converter that will also charge a battery. 150 watts or more will cover all usage. I also would not exceed the max charging rate of the battery, usually 10% the amp hours for FLA
- Keep the OEM battery, use it as a buffer for momentary large loads and keep it charged with a Orion smart 24/12-30 isolated DC-DC keeping the 12V in from the tow vehicle.
I can’t speak to the first part.
- Keep the OEM battery, use the 24/12-70 to power loads/keep battery charged and use a 3 position switch to keep the non isolated orion from the tow vehicle's 12vdc.
I will say not much power goes down that tow hitch. If my leveling jacks died, the trailer 5 pin would not provide the 50 amps needed to raise or lower the Rv. This provides enough power for lighting and to operate the breaka, and will not charge a depleted battery in any reasonable time.