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4 Inverter Victron Planning Review

BlindBadger

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2023
Messages
28
Location
Spokane, WA, USA
Hi All! I'm trying to plan out a victron-based grid-tie (ish) inverter setup for my home in WA, USA and I'd love you veterans' thoughts on the plan and the design (including if the whole design is dumb and I should consider a different direction or vendor).

Being in the USA (and in a city suburb) and being that there's significant electrical work, I'll likely need a permit, which means everything has to meet state regulations (be certified or listed by one of these organizations: WA State Certification Organization List ). Very few bits of Victron gear meet this, sadly...but I'm also about a year out from purchasing and installing the equipment so I'm hoping the "UL Pending" status updates by then for the 48/5000/70/95 inverter charger. (No Quattros are UL or anything qualified certified for the US)

My very unoriginal overall goals are:
  • Be able to live like normal off-grid (power-wise)
  • Save money by using solar and batteries as much as possible
My plan to get there is stages:
  • Stage 1 focus: Be able to live fully off-grid during peak hours (time-of-use isn't here yet but it's only a matter of time...my utility already publishes the intended rates for it when they implement it). Implement small 1k-ish solar system on the garage at the same time to help lower cost and qualify for state tax incentives (which require a minimum of 1kw solar system to qualify). Outside of the solar production, charge the batteries from the grid during off-peak times to run during peak times.
  • Stage 2 focus: Expand solar and batteries to generate enough power to charge the batteries for those peak times, reducing reliance on the grid.
  • Stage 3+ focus: Continue expanding solar and batteries until I can live off-grid even in the winter (thankfully, I have a good amount of roof space with a 1200ft main house with lots of south facing roof, and a 36x54 shop that also has a large south facing roof).
I believe the first step in planning is an energy audit...I've been monitoring it for a couple of weeks with Emporia Vue sensors and it looks like I'll need 13-14kw maximum load for my house and shop (shop has a loft where I work from home from). I also have 5 minute meter data for the past 2 years on my house through my utility's website so I was able to really get detailed on how much power I used during various seasons and hours.

What I found was:
  • I average 68kWh a day with a maximum of 126kWh in the winter (I'm still digging into why I use so much in the winter when my heating source is natural gas but that's an investigation for another time)
  • I picked that 126kWh day and grabbed the peak hour usage and it was 29kWh and 30kWh for each of the two peak time segments. This is my "worst case scenario" for stage 1 and gives me a target for the battery capacity for that stage to carry me through peak hours on battery power alone.
  • With the Emporia Vue, I was able to measure my mains and get some details on my heavy loads (House Central Air Conditioning, Loft Mini-Split, Dryer, Oven, and furnace fan) and with all of those on and the rest of the house in "normal operating mode", I would be around 11kW. I could probably get away with a 12kw system but it seems a bit close and I hate running close to the limits, so I'm aiming for whatever the next size up is (in this victron system, it would be 16kw at 4x5000va/4000w inverters).
So...with all of that information, I set off to figure out how to accomplish this and my first pass/guess at the system is below: (estimating $18k-20k in parts)
1692652840727.png

Solar stuff is just guesstimates right now...EG4 batteries because they have the UL stickers for inspection (which the cheaper SOK batteries don't have, sadly). The Lynx stuff is primarily to help me stay organized in what is plugged in where (as seen in the diagram below) and account for future expansion in multiple battery banks and more solar charge controllers).

The high level wiring design I was trying to figure out is below: (no monitoring or comms cables shown)
1692652928187.png

Does that all look right? I'm still not completely clear as to why the grounds and neutrals go where they do on the house-load side of the victrons, but that's what I see in the quattro 120/240 split diagrams I've seen on the victron site (though none of the diagrams I've seen have more than 2 inverters, even though they're allowed to go up to 6 per phase -.- ).

I could go with Sol-Ark 15k units (x2) and save myself a lot of components and space, but it works out to be slightly more expensive in the end at $22k-$24k (though I do get a bit more capacity at 24kw inverting, instead of 16k)

So...am I at least on the right track? Have I made a grave mistake?
 
You will need a lot of solar to be able to fill up that system.

I think you need to figure out how much solar you have available before you go too far down the battery/inverter side. Otherwise, you could find yourself being able to be completely off-grid- except you need to charge your batteries from the grid every other day. But then again, you are just wanting to avoid the peak times and recharge during off-peak rates.

I think you need to figure out all the roof panels- that way you can buy the mounting hardware that will make sense and the conduit you run will be large enough to account for your end goal.

Your drawing looks good. (But I only work with small Victron systems).
 
Victron is not great choice for fixed installs in the US. Many of their products aren't NRTL listed, Their solar charge controllers don't support ground fault, arc fault protections, and rapid shutdown required by the electrical code. Also the charge controllers and lynx don't have ways to wire them in approved methods under the electric code(no conduit connections, or junction boxes).

Also the 2021 Washington State Residential Code, requires UL 9540 listing for energy storage(not to be confused with UL 9540A), as right now you only need to worry about the 2016 version of UL9540 which allows listing of batteries separately from inverters. So any batteries you use will. need to be UL9540 listed. In the future WA state may require compliance with the 2020 version of UL9540, which requires use of listed battery inverter combinations.
 
Victron is not great choice for fixed installs in the US. Many of their products aren't NRTL listed, Their solar charge controllers don't support ground fault, arc fault protections, and rapid shutdown required by the electrical code. Also the charge controllers and lynx don't have ways to wire them in approved methods under the electric code(no conduit connections, or junction boxes).

Also the 2021 Washington State Residential Code, requires UL 9540 listing for energy storage(not to be confused with UL 9540A), as right now you only need to worry about the 2016 version of UL9540 which allows listing of batteries separately from inverters. So any batteries you use will. need to be UL9540 listed. In the future WA state may require compliance with the 2020 version of UL9540, which requires use of listed battery inverter combinations.
I was worried about that with so few of their items being UL listed, but was hoping I'd be able to make do with one of the few that are. Am I just better off going the dual Sol-Ark 15k route then? I love having component systems so that it's easy to expand one specific aspect of a system without having to expand everything all at once.
 
I was worried about that with so few of their items being UL listed, but was hoping I'd be able to make do with one of the few that are. Am I just better off going the dual Sol-Ark 15k route then? I love having component systems so that it's easy to expand one specific aspect of a system without having to expand everything all at once.
Schneider Electric's XW pro, and Conext MPPT are a component system that has listings and features to allow for a code compliant install.
 
You will need a lot of solar to be able to fill up that system.

I think you need to figure out how much solar you have available before you go too far down the battery/inverter side. Otherwise, you could find yourself being able to be completely off-grid- except you need to charge your batteries from the grid every other day. But then again, you are just wanting to avoid the peak times and recharge during off-peak rates.

I think you need to figure out all the roof panels- that way you can buy the mounting hardware that will make sense and the conduit you run will be large enough to account for your end goal.

Your drawing looks good. (But I only work with small Victron systems).
Yeah, I'm working on reducing energy usage too where I can. I'd love to be able to do a 12k-sized system instead since it would be a lot cheaper and easier to do...hoping this winter gives me a clearer view of why my draws are so high and if I can fix that, it might help trim the sizing.

As for solar sizing, I'm not sure how many strings or banks of panels I'll need to plan for...that stuff feels like it gets complicated fast.

At the risk of sleuths finding my address, this is what a solar estimator online measured for my shop roof:
1692659036185.png

The building is pretty tall so getting up there on a ladder is not an easy feat...probably need to hire a local solar installer to figure out what's even possible there. I just want to make sure I *can* run the house, inverter-wise as that seems like a minimum foundation step, even before solar.

EDIT: Probably should have clarified...the picture above is my SHOP roof and my house roof can accomodate about 80% of the same panels. South facing alone on shop and house, I should have enough space for 50 panels, close to double that if I use the north facing roofs as well (understanding there will be a decrease in output capability on those)
 
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Also the 2021 Washington State Residential Code, requires UL 9540 listing for energy storage(not to be confused with UL 9540A), as right now you only need to worry about the 2016 version of UL9540 which allows listing of batteries separately from inverters. So any batteries you use will. need to be UL9540 listed. In the future WA state may require compliance with the 2020 version of UL9540, which requires use of listed battery inverter combinations.
This took me an embarasingly long time to wrap my head around...

When I went digging, I found the link below, which appears to indicate that the whole UL9540 setup is pending (effective 10/29/23 unless delayed again).
Link: https://app.leg.wa.gov/wac/default.aspx?cite=51-51-0329 (51-51-0328 appears to be what exists now with identical wording but also includes some stuff about pools so I think the only changes are to move it to 329 >.<).

With UL9540, I'm guessing I'm limited to this list of combinations (at least to pass inspection):

Of all of that, only the last one seems remotely appealing for my goals (which means a maximum of 17.52kwh).
 
This took me an embarasingly long time to wrap my head around...

When I went digging, I found the link below, which appears to indicate that the whole UL9540 setup is pending (effective 10/29/23 unless delayed again).
Link: https://app.leg.wa.gov/wac/default.aspx?cite=51-51-0329 (51-51-0328 appears to be what exists now with identical wording but also includes some stuff about pools so I think the only changes are to move it to 329 >.<).

With UL9540, I'm guessing I'm limited to this list of combinations (at least to pass inspection):

Of all of that, only the last one seems remotely appealing for my goals (which means a maximum of 17.52kwh).
There are other UL 9540 solutions available for the XW:
There is the Kilo Vault HAB: kilovault-hab-series, fortress power has ul9540 options among others.
 
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