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400a daly bms not turning on

timmeh

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Apr 26, 2021
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Hi guys first post as im new here.
I have a 400a daly smart bms. wired up to my 8s lifepo4 280ah eve bank.

Checked the balance leads 4 times. neg then 3.6v 7.2v and so on in order so all good.
Temp probe is connected and i tried reconnecting 3 times.
Shorted b- to p- many times.
tried charging but charger will not sense bms.
Tried a power supply no difference.
I can measure pack voltage on the positive battery poste and p- leads. 28.1v pack reads 28.3v on the battery posts.
Bluetooth wont show up in the app.
if i apply a load nothing powers up.
Uart cable works but nothing shows in the software scans but says not responding.

I cant think of what to try next? Its just un responsive. ?????
 
How is the charger connected that it does not see P- = 28.1v?


What is "tried a power supply"?


Applied to battery directly or P-? With 28.1v what does not power up?
I tried to apply charge with charger but did not work. so i used a power supply with 27v to try charge activate but did not work. if i test leads with meter the bms p- shows voltage 28.1v but when i connect charger it shows 1v so only very low voltage no current so when charger is attached it drops.
 
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I tried to apply charge with charger
To be battery directly? Thru the BMS? Just the BMS?
but when i connect charger it shows no voltage
It (assuming P-) reads 28.1v until you add a charger (to B-? or P-?) and then "it" reads "no voltage"? (as in 0v?)

Do you have a pic if your wiring? I cannot fathom what all the "its" are.
 
Apply charge to bms. Reads 1v when attached charger but 28.1v when bare lead from bms nothing attached.
 

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OK FIXED MINE! SO>>>>> wire the bms wires all of them to the battery. then if they are in correct order plug them into the bms as well as the temp probe and uart or bluetooth. THEN YOU MUST use the omh tester between the b- and p- wires test if showing only small number. THEN ONLY THEN attach the b- blue wire to battery WHILE KEEPING THE BALANCE NEG STILL ATTACHED. THEN check total voltage with meter on the battery positive and p- wires. if it shows correct pack voltage it will work. AND mine finally did. believe it or not you have to do it in that order. i am also told NEVER DISCONNECT BALANCE LEAD WHILE B- IS STILL CONNECTED.
 
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Do not short the p- and b- leads. Daly will not accept a return if you damage the bms. Doing the process above with a multi meter testing the resistance is the key activation method.
 
Ok so it seems for some odd reason after re installing the bms i had a single cell voltage high level 2 error but My cells were all balanced at 3.56v and my settings were 3.65v for high cut off. The charge and discharge mosfet switches showed both on in the Bluetooth app but bms was not on. When i changed to 3.75v cell voltage high cut off the bms turned on. I have found also when i change some settings like cell voltage or temps the bms will turn off the mosfets but still show them as being turned on in the Bluetooth app. What works is to turn them off and oddly the bms then turns on and then it also turns the switches back on in the app?? I dont know why but it works. So on top of getting the correct method to activate it seems the bms when you change perimeters can disable the mosfets but show in the app that they are on and really confuse things. I found this after connecting the battery to a light so i could easily see what was happening. I suggest to the other user with over current issues to try cycling the mosfet switches to see if it turns back on regardless of if they say they are already on.
 
It isn't well documented but to start some BMS, you generally need to apply a charge current. The voltage also needs to be at least 0.7v higher than the cell voltage.
 
It isn't well documented but to start some BMS, you generally need to apply a charge current. The voltage also needs to be at least 0.7v higher than the cell voltage.
I cant charge as the mosfet is not connected. So charger does not sense anything connected as no continuity. Regardless of voltage applied.
 
Also noticed my victron shunt i know is accurate and im charging at about 4amps but the bms Bluetooth says -4amps even after rebooting. Seems the Bluetooth app is buggy as hell. Makes me wonder how accurate the protection is.
 

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Mines acting funky today. I live off grid (in a bus) so I use mine every day.
This morning I turned power back on in bus and everything seemed to be functioning normally, but the Chg MOS was showing green on the opening data screen, but I’m not connected to a power source currently and I always keep it off. Checking the last settings screen, the Charge MOSFET is turned off, as I expected. Anyway, I turned it on/off in settings couple times to no effect. So I disable both chg/dischg and disconnect Bluetooth, and when I finally get Bluetooth connected again (it took 30min for some reason) it shows accurate data on info screen. ChgMOS gray/off and Dischg MOS green/on.
So I look at my load and realize it doesn’t match the load on the inverter
BMS shows 35a (at 13.2v)
Inverter shows 16a (at 13.1v)
My
Load is a couple LEDs lights and fridge at ~15a, by my calculation.

So I figure it’s time to reboot the BMS. Upon reboot, ofc my lights and power turn off, but they don’t come back on.
Bluetooth app still shows me connected, but the load is 5a (dropped from 35a) but there are no lights in the bus.
The BMS appears to think it’s powering a load of LED lights (turned off my fridge which runs about 10a) which WOULD be accurate, if the lights were being powered.

Anyone experience similar?
 
Hi guys first post as im new here.
I have a 400a daly smart bms. wired up to my 8s lifepo4 280ah eve bank.

Checked the balance leads 4 times. neg then 3.6v 7.2v and so on in order so all good.
Temp probe is connected and i tried reconnecting 3 times.
Shorted b- to p- many times.
tried charging but charger will not sense bms.
Tried a power supply no difference.
I can measure pack voltage on the positive battery poste and p- leads. 28.1v pack reads 28.3v on the battery posts.
Bluetooth wont show up in the app.
if i apply a load nothing powers up.
Uart cable works but nothing shows in the software scans but says not responding.

I cant think of what to try next? Its just un responsive. ?????
Try turning on location (gps) sometimes this helps with bluetooth recognition. I know it sounds weird but I know first hand it works.
 
Mines acting funky today. I live off grid (in a bus) so I use mine every day.
This morning I turned power back on in bus and everything seemed to be functioning normally, but the Chg MOS was showing green on the opening data screen, but I’m not connected to a power source currently and I always keep it off. Checking the last settings screen, the Charge MOSFET is turned off, as I expected. Anyway, I turned it on/off in settings couple times to no effect. So I disable both chg/dischg and disconnect Bluetooth, and when I finally get Bluetooth connected again (it took 30min for some reason) it shows accurate data on info screen. ChgMOS gray/off and Dischg MOS green/on.
So I look at my load and realize it doesn’t match the load on the inverter
BMS shows 35a (at 13.2v)
Inverter shows 16a (at 13.1v)
My
Load is a couple LEDs lights and fridge at ~15a, by my calculation.

So I figure it’s time to reboot the BMS. Upon reboot, ofc my lights and power turn off, but they don’t come back on.
Bluetooth app still shows me connected, but the load is 5a (dropped from 35a) but there are no lights in the bus.
The BMS appears to think it’s powering a load of LED lights (turned off my fridge which runs about 10a) which WOULD be accurate, if the lights were being powered.

Anyone experience similar?
I think you need to set zero current when you have no load on. Mine acts funky too as the current shows negative draw when im actually charging but the value is right. Also the mosfets can show on even though they are off. Buggy software/firmware. Sometimes if i change a setting it turns off the output mosfet but says its on and i have to toggle it to turn it back on.
 
I think you need to set zero current when you have no load on. Mine acts funky too as the current shows negative draw when im actually charging but the value is right. Also the mosfets can show on even though they are off. Buggy software/firmware. Sometimes if i change a setting it turns off the output mosfet but says its on and i have to toggle it to turn it back on.
I tried zeroing current too, BMS did not begin functioning.
I’m gonna use inverter to turn it on in a bit
 
I think you need to set zero current when you have no load on. Mine acts funky too as the current shows negative draw when im actually charging but the value is right. Also the mosfets can show on even though they are off. Buggy software/firmware. Sometimes if i change a setting it turns off the output mosfet but says its on and i have to toggle it to turn it back on.
Fortunately, my inverter and BMS powered up fine when I applied current to charge batteries. Unfortunately, this is a pretty big bug for me. Do you have a lead on the light bar? What vendor did you use if you don’t mind my asking
 
Got the light board. So had to move the battery and re wire it etc. disconnect everything. Re install bms to battery. Following all steps. Again damn thing wont turn on. Even with the light board. So over this thing. Daly is no help. Just a circle of the same question back at me. “Does it work” maybe try instructions” over and over. Useless support. I can not for the life of me figure out what actually activates this stupid thing. Seems to be just luck and trying it over and over till something happens.
 
Applied for a full refund. Can not get it to activate or show any signs of life. You would think in 2021 there would be decent bms on the market by now.
 
UPDATE lol. SOOOO heres the deal. After re trying every combo previously mentioned i finally got it to work.

Step 1, Connect balance lead plug to bms. All balance leads must be installed on the battery which is tricky as you do not have the B- lead installed yet so you need to use a short lead installed on the terminal to later connect the B- too allowing you to have the balance lead connected.
Step 2, Using multi meter in diode mode -|>|- connect multi meter Positive lead to the Bms B- and multi meter Negative lead to P- ,multi meter must be correct polarity as mentioned."BMS SHOULD TURN ON"
Step 3, Now connect B- to battery.

Do this with nothing els atached to the bms as in dont have the P- already hooked up to your charger or load.
If it dont work the first time disconnect B- Then Balance lead plug and wait around 10 mins for capacitors inside to discharge then try again.
 
UPDATE lol. SOOOO heres the deal. After re trying every combo previously mentioned i finally got it to work.

Step 1, Connect balance lead plug to bms. All balance leads must be installed on the battery which is tricky as you do not have the B- lead installed yet so you need to use a short lead installed on the terminal to later connect the B- too allowing you to have the balance lead connected.
Step 2, Using multi meter in diode mode -|>|- connect multi meter Positive lead to the Bms B- and multi meter Negative lead to P- ,multi meter must be correct polarity as mentioned."BMS SHOULD TURN ON"
Step 3, Now connect B- to battery.

Do this with nothing els atached to the bms as in dont have the P- already hooked up to your charger or load.
If it dont work the first time disconnect B- Then Balance lead plug and wait around 10 mins for capacitors inside to discharge then try again.
Did you try this one a few times just to verify functionality?
Also reading this it looks like you didn’t use your light board, and you didn’t jump it.
Did you have a load or power supply attached?
 
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