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Acquired Falling apart off-grid system, need advice

Apologies. Seems like some members are making suggestions that do not seem to meet immediate needs. I was affirming what another member posted about keeping a positive, can do attitude. We each have opinions.

The broken wires are a serious question mark. I should have described that hack as strictly a temporary measure to assess the system for now. There are forces here on diysolarforum that want to keep things to code, understandably. It looks like the person who set up that battery bank was not following code, yet it has been working for a while with some quality components. Name calling Interstate batteries as cheap does not help the thread starter, so wondering why that post was not called out? Those batteries may have been the only practical option for people on a budget at that location.

It would be so interesting to learn what the OP actually thinks about the responses his thread created. I hope the issue with that system is resolved.
 
Thank you all so much for all of the replies. I did not expect to get so much information back, but I want to really thank everyone who took the time to read it all and respond. Even the disagreement is insightful as I try to formulate a plan to deal with this issue. Since I got so much feedback, I will give and update and ask as much as I can think to ask. Thanks again for anyone who gives some advice

Since some of you seemed interested to know what has happened with this battery bank, the answer is nothing, yet. After my initial post I had to leave the property for some time and had things to deal with. The day before I came back, I spent it wondering around collecting supplies (battery hydrometer, 4-0 awg welding wire & lugs, dc clamp meter, etc), but didn't manage to find everything I needed. I decided to take sunshine_eggo's first suggested approach but got stopped at clean and torque all connections. Many of the connections seem completely and totally unrepairable and, before I started taking things apart, I wanted to make sure I had the wire and connectors to put things back together. Not so easy to find around here. I will try again tomorrow evening.

In any case, to clarify on my ideas on the system, especially after reading this thread: I see now that the battery bank (or whatever survives the culling) as a whole needs to go in the near term future. I am planning on replacing the whole thing with a good LifePo4 bank as soon as I'm able. But with my time, resources, and supply limitations that could be between weeks and months. So I would like to keep the system running for at least that long, even at reduced capacity. The majority of the system has run for at least 10 years (the panel array, SCCs, inverter) and the battery bank for 2 or 3, so I figure some more months is reasonable given some maintenance and love (especially with people willing to help on this forum). Besides, this gives me an opportunity to learn something new.

Steps I've taken in the meantime:

1. Got the manuals for and recorded the inverter and SCC settings. Was worried about losing something if for some reason the battery bank died all-together before I could examine it. They were actually all the default settings.
2. Covered battery plates with distilled water (but did not top off). I did that before, but some had gone dry again.
3. Disconnected and reconnected AC and DC breaker. Verified the inverter will restart and power the place

Some questions I had before I make the effort to disassemble the bank:

-
As some speculated there is no breaker or fuse between the panels and the SCC, or the SCC and the battery. The SCCs are at least grounded (sloppily looking, with some dangly green wire plugged into the dirt). I thought this wouldn't be a problem if I just did it at night, but at around 13:30 pm on an overcast night, the panels are reading between 10 and 15v in w/ 0 amps. Would still like to disconnect the panels/SCC before working on the bank. Also having read something about the potential to damage the SCC if disconnecting the battery but leaving the panels connected, I am wondering what I should do here. Disconnect the panels MC4 connectors, or at the SCC, or don't?

- Does anyone have any idea what this wire size and lug might be?

image1-3.jpeg

This is for the SCC to the battery terminal. Silly and probably unanswerable question based on the picture, but I have a feeling once I take that terminal off, I won't be able to get it back on without putting a new connector on. It basically doesn't exist anymore. Additionally, the Flexmax 80 recommends 2/0 AWG, and so this looks to be undersized. Perhaps a better question is should I run a whole new cable through the conduit?

- All of the battery interconnect cables vary from 2/0 AWG to 4/0 AWG. Looks like the former maintainer just made what he had available at the time (there's also a pile laying around I found of different sizes, makes me suspect he might have been just swapping in and out batteries and interconnects onsie twosie?). Moreover, parallel connections between series strings are all 4/0 AWG, but the parallel connection between 4x4 blocks is 2/0 AWG? doesn't seem logical. I am having trouble with the math of the parallel/series rats nest, can someone clarify for my curiosity what the actually correct gauge interconnect is for a battery bank this size?

Finally, I am looking now at making the whole system safe and serviceable in the long-run while maintaining as many components as possible. I have resources, but can't spend a fortune on something brand new. Any advice in that direction would be greatly appreciated. Things I know to do now with the responses I got (besides fix the effed battery situation):

1. Add breakers between SCC/panels, SCC/batteries
2. Possibly move new battery bank closer to the inverter, but at the very least combine battery-inverter long run into one conduit housing
3. Fix the environment issue (chickens, no battery housing, etc)
4. Rexamine the wiring. Every time I look, I find things like this... the inside of the junction box coming from the panels. Something tells me there's a better way to do this?

image0-5.jpeg

Wow that ended up being a lot. If you read that all thanks a ton and any insight would be immensely appreciated. Some of you here probably take these things for granted. Let me tell you, I am a total noob, but I'm tryin to learn as fast as I can.

Finally finally finally not to get too off-topic, but if anyone has any recommendations on ~30kWh 24 volt battery bank replacements given Hawaii import restrictions, I am all ears.
 
Glad to hear we didn't scare you off! Sound like you've got a great start on a good plan.

The majority of the system has run for at least 10 years (the panel array, SCCs, inverter) and the battery bank for 2 or 3, so I figure some more months is reasonable given some maintenance and love (especially with people willing to help on this forum). Besides, this gives me an opportunity to learn something new.
If those batteries are only 3 years old I bet you can get 12 to 16 them to make it another 2 years.

To make your repeated reconfiguring and testing quicker I would pick up some of these mechanical lugs.

For cutting the welding cable you'll need this Klein or something like this no name on Amazon.
 
Funnily enough, the positive terminal for SCC fell off this morning (the one that I mentioned in my post). So the SCC went offline. While I run around trying to find the correct lugs, heat shrink, and wire to replace it, how bad of a situation is it? I'm hesitant to unscrew the PV+ and PV- as its broad daylight outside, but don't want the SCC to be damaged because its connected to PV and not to battery.
 
Funnily enough, the positive terminal for SCC fell off this morning (the one that I mentioned in my post). So the SCC went offline. While I run around trying to find the correct lugs, heat shrink, and wire to replace it, how bad of a situation is it? I'm hesitant to unscrew the PV+ and PV- as its broad daylight outside, but don't want the SCC to be damaged because its connected to PV and not to battery.

The connector connecting the positive output from the SCC to the battery fell off, rather
 
Funnily enough, the positive terminal for SCC fell off this morning (the one that I mentioned in my post). So the SCC went offline. While I run around trying to find the correct lugs, heat shrink, and wire to replace it, how bad of a situation is it? I'm hesitant to unscrew the PV+ and PV- as its broad daylight outside, but don't want the SCC to be damaged because its connected to PV and not to battery.

It won't be damaged. Given that the PV lines may be high voltage, you may just want to locate a way to disconnect the panels from the controller at the panels. If the panels are connected with MC4 connectors, disconnecting 1 MC4 in each string of panels feeding that MPPT will cut the PV to the unit.
 
It won't be damaged. Given that the PV lines may be high voltage, you may just want to locate a way to disconnect the panels from the controller at the panels. If the panels are connected with MC4 connectors, disconnecting 1 MC4 in each string of panels feeding that MPPT will cut the PV to the unit.
Thank you!
 
Just an FYI, but chicken poop is pretty corrosive. Uric acid and all that... That may be a big cause of a lot of that corrosion.

Also, heavy positive post corrosion on a lead acid battery tends to indicate an over charging condition. Conversely, a lot of white powdery corrosion on the negative post indicates undercharging and sulfation. Once you have the system more or less functional, I would check to see what the floating voltage is... if the system ever goes into float mode at all. With those huge strings of batteries with bad and (hopefully) less bad batteries in the mix, the charge controllers may stay in bulk mode all or most of the time. Ideally, you would see bulk mode charging voltage of about 14.8V and a float voltage of 13.5V.

 
Does anyone have any idea what this wire size and lug might be?
Those are typically 5/16”
disconnect the panels from the controller at the panels
yes
The connector connecting the positive output from the SCC to the battery fell off, rather
THAT’s the scary thing everybody was talking about. Personally I would NOT repair it but rather install fresh cable, properly swage-crimped, heat shrink, and holy crap be careful to pull of the neg(-) or pos(+) cable (whatever didn’t fall off) before working on it. And THIS is a great time to properly fuse those batteries between the SCC i/o connection.
 
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Completely new to the forum and looking for some advice. This is a lot, so up front: I am very grateful to anyone who takes the time to read and offer me some insight.

I recently acquired an off-grid property that I purchased for many reasons except the house. The property was not well maintained by the previous owner, and the decently large solar system needs some immediate attention. It is very remote, and the few electricians that I can find are booked all through to mid January. I would like to at least keep the power on while I work on other things. I know basic electrical theory, but have little practical experience (I am a software reverse engineer). I am working through the DIY solar channel videos, but am starting late because I did not initially set out to buy an off-grid property. I have an immediate problem that there is a corroded positive battery cable in the large battery bank that I'm unsure how to safely replace, but also I can't evaluate the design choices of the previous owner to know if there are any more lurking issues.

The system:
  • 48x 180 Watt 44 Volt, Suntech solar panels (These)
  • 4x Flex Max 80 Solar charge Controllers, connected each to 4 parallel connected series strings of 3 panels
  • 48x 6 Volt 225 ah golf-cart batteries, wired in 3 parallel blocks of 4 parallel connected series strings of 4 batteries for a 24 volt battery bank configuration
  • Xantrex 4000 Watt SW4024 Inverter w/ Trace DC Disconnect and AC Circuit Breaker
Main immediate problem: The battery interconnect cables are fairly corroded in some spots, and at one of the points parallel connecting a series string (the positive to positive connection) is completely corroded off. See my horrible (I apologize, it looks like a child made it) diagram. I am surprised the system is even working, but according to the inverter meter the battery voltage is between 24 and 27 volts (depending on the day/weather), and I've noticed no issues except some occasional light flickering in the house. I don't understand enough electrical theory to understand what this is doing to the system (I assume nothing good) and thus how immediate of a problem it is, or how to safely replace it. I don't want to be touching things when I know theres a lot of current flowing. Do I need to turn off the system at the DC Disconnect (and therefore power down the solar charger controllers and inverter) before I try and replace the battery interconnect, or can I replace it in place? Please forgive my ignorance, but I haven't found any info about this situation specifically.

Secondarily, I'm trying to evaluate if other aspects of the system are sound such as the manner the solar charge controllers are connected to the battery bank. 2 of the chargers are connected to one block of 16 batteries - splitting it, while the other 2 are connected to a whole 16 block each. Does this create uneven charge conditions and is there a better way to connect it?

Any other thoughts or advice for how to maintain this system or things to watch out for would be appreciated as I am 100% new, but have an unusual situation of inheriting a system rather than building one. And a falling apart system at that: When I first looked at the battery bank, almost all of the batteries had the bare metal exposed because they had not been watered in so long.

Thank you thank you for any insight you might bring.

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I'm sorry but those batteries on the floor look Ghetto AF.
 
Clean them up with a wire wheel on drill and see what their condition is when you can see what is below the green grunge.

The heat shrink tubing over the ends is just an electrolyte acid trap that will enhance the copper sulfide growth.
 
Clean them up with a wire wheel on drill and see what their condition is when you can see what is below the green grunge.

The heat shrink tubing over the ends is just an electrolyte acid trap that will enhance the copper sulfide growth.
Yep, all those cables with the green pus are corroded inside the crimps and under the insulation, too.
 
I would spring for new cable because the corrosion will travel a surprising distance up the cable. Yeah you might want to get a couple of rolls and a nice crimper and lugs for Christmas.
 
Grab a 5gal bucket, fill it with water and about 2 cups of baking soda. When you start tearing into your wires and cleaning off the gunk, throw the cleaned wires into the bucket while you're futzing with the rest of the batteries.

That'll help get the corrosion out from inside the lugs while you're working on other stuff anyways. Dry them off as best you can before reinstalling them. If the corrosion is bad inside to the point of copper damage, having those soaked terminals will help any bad lugs pull off easier. Replace any lugs that fall off after bucketing.
 
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