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diy solar

Adding large capacity battery backup to newly installed grid-tie solar system in lieu of generator?

Joined
Feb 13, 2023
Messages
1
Location
Davidsonville, MD
Hi all, I’m new here, but have been a subscriber of Will’s for a while. As such, you think that’d I’d have installed my system myself, but, as often happens, life got in the way. To start off, I’ll give you all some background.

So, I had SolarEnergyWorld install a 26.4kw, grid-tie system consisting of 80, 330 Trina panels, and 3 Solar Edge inverters. This was finally lit up in early November. They did have a batteries available for sale, but they were $10K each for 10kw batteries, so I decided that was something I’d tackle. Not just to save money, which it def will, but also it sounds like a fun project.

Moving on. Our farm, like most, I’m sure, is a mess of wiring (and water pipes) stretching across the better part of 6 acres on our property. Feeding this spaghetti mess are 2 Utility meters. One serves the house and my shop, and the other serves our barn, office, gym, and pool. Our solar is connected to the latter, mostly due to proximity. 68 of the panels are mounted on the barn, and 12 are on our office/gym, which is where the meter is located.

On the main house, power comes from the utility pad mounted transformer (100kva) next to my garage > Meter > 200A Service Disconnect Symphony II Automatic Transfer Switch > 200A Main panel > 50A Mechanical Sub-panel. That meter also feeds 200A service to my shop.

The other meter is fed by the same transformer > Meter> 200a Panel which in turn feeds 60a panel in the barn and a 60A panel at our pool. This meter is fed by the solar system.

My plan is/was to go with a 30-35kWh rack system for batteries, but I’m uncertain of how to effectively tie them to my solar and to the panel. My solar salesperson is no help at all. I can have my electrician hook it up, but he can’t really tell me what I need to buy. 35kWh may seem large, but because we have livestock, I need to ensure that we have power enough to last a few days of dark skies due to storms. My intent is to be independent from the grid when it becomes necessary due to high costs or simply more expedient. We do share the net metering across the meters, which covers about 70% of my carry costs.

My problem now is actually figuring out how to add batteries so a) the solar will keep them charged, b) the transfer from the grid to the battery system is automatic, a la my generator and c) the system is designed to be easily disconnected from the grid. Ideally, I’ll have two battery systems, leaving the propane generator as a backup to the backup, but that sounds too complex to tackle at the moment. Baby steps.

All things being equal, I’d rather generate and store my own power rather than let BGE dictate terms. We are on a well, have oil heat/hot water, and cook and heat our pool with propane. So, while I do have to buy oil and propane, the tanks we have are large, (1,000 gal Oil tank and 3, 250 gal propane tanks) and so we only need fill them once a year for propane, and once every 2 years for the oil. To reduce our oil and propane use even further, I’m actively looking to purchase solar water heaters for every building and for the pool, but that’s a question for another

Anyway, back to the battery question. Given my goals: eventual energy independence, automatic switching, and large enough to provide 3 days of power, what says the group? I had initially planned on rack mounted EG4 batteries, but I’m open to suggestions. Money is a consideration, but I’ll pay more for a product with a better warranty, excellent customer service, and intuitive operation. Basically, if it’s easy to use, and I can get someone on the phone to answer my questions, it’s worth more to me. I don‘t want to have to learn a new language to use the system, but I’m also not a Luddite.

Finally, if anyone on here is a specialist in these systems, in the DC/Annapolis, I’d be interested in talking offline.

TIA!
Rob
 
This might help
 
BGE has a nifty feature where you can download the data from your smart meter(s). This will tell you how much power you used every hr on any given day. This will help with determining your peak power requirement as well as your total energy usage

You can also view it in a graph on the my usage tab. You can view this data to get an idea of how many batteries / large a generator would be required to do what you are asking. Spoiler it will cost more than you want.

For example imagine you are running a stock tank heater that is rated at 1200 watts.

On a cold day it is running continuously, it will use 10 kwh in under 9 hrs.

To keep that running for 3 days we'd need 1.2 kw * 3 days* 24 hrs/ day = 86.4 KWh

Alternatively the pride of the farm polar max insulated waterer requires no power and sells for $745. How well it works depends on how cold it is and how many animals are using it. I have to break the ice on ours on the coldest days with only a few animals drinking out of it.

The single phase solar edge inverters say they are limited to only a few batteries that are supported and only so many per inverter.
If you had 30 KWh of batteries installed on each of the 3 inverters that would be 90 KWh.
 
Good luck. I'm still waiting to hear from someone that has successfully installed a large 100% AC coupled system that will work well off grid. AC coupled is great for Grid tied. Sol ark can apparently handled 50% AC coupled when off grid partly due to using their gen input to disconnect the PV inverters when needed. If you want a DIY plug and play system that works well both on and off grid, DC coupled is the only real way to go. Although Enphase does have a proprietary AC coupled battery system, that apparently does work, it is not DIY and is very expensive. They apparently use features built into their IQ8s to respond far faster to changes in load. These features only work with their batteries and their IQ system controller.

The big problem is what to do when batteries are full and won't accept much current. So if you are using your batteries as a back up, they will typically be fully charged when the grid goes down. Now PV can be curtailed by frequency shifting when the grid is down, but it doesn't happen instantaneously. The problem is what to do with 26 KW of power during the time it takes for Frequency shifting to cut back the power. There is no fine control either. It will shift in 10% increments, so that is still 2,600 watts per step. MPPT charge controllers respond much faster and can be used to balance out the excess power while the PV inverters are adjusting. Maybe tie one of the solar edge inverters as AC Coupled, the other two as grid tied only.

Price out various possible solutions. You will find that when it comes to supplying power for an extended outage, propane is 100X cheaper than batteries.
 
Is your system single phase or 3 phase?

3x Sunny Island should work great for 3-phase (so long as your GT PV inverters do frequency-watts), but pass-through to grid is limited to 6.7kW x 3 = 20kW

4x wired 2p2s supposedly works for 6.7kW x 4 = 26.7kW pass-through, but I think based on my experiences where loads (not PV) were high, there were some glitches during transfer, maybe a race and overload tripping.



Schneider supports AC coupling (maybe some issues regarding charging sources if no DC coupling, someone reported?). It solves race issue with external transfer relay.

I suspect SMA will bring European 8.0H model Sunny Island to the US eventually, and it supports 200A external relay.


Or make smaller backup system with just one GT PV inverter as another suggested.
 
First, use the Sol-ark website to locate an installer near you.

For the house that is on a meter and has no solar, do a traditional installation.

For the existing AC PV, install a Sol-ark and feed the AC PV into the Gen Input. You will need 2 Sol-ark because you exceed 19kW of solar. Or, you can put the excess on the grid input.

I assume your generator is on an ATS between the grid and main panel. Keep it there, and feed the Sol-ark instead.

Set the charge level on the batteries to 95 or 90%. That will leave headroom in the batteries to absorb surge power when grid down and slow throttling of AC PV.

Talk to Sol-ark installer about moving the PV from the Solar edge to the Sol-ark. If you can get to 50% DC PV directly into the Sol-ark, that would be awesome, and you can probably charge to 98-99% without worries.

18650battery has diy batteries that are inexpensive. 14kWh for under $3k.
 
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Upon further thought, if 1sol-ark 15k is enough power when grid down, then move 15k of DC PV to the Sol-ark, and add batteries. If you need more than 50 amps continuous when grid down, then you need to parallel 2 Sol-ark so move all the PV to the Sol-ark. Sell the solar edge inverters on ebay or here.

Regarding batteries: consider both delivery as well as capacity. For each 50 amps continuous output, that is 12kW. You should have at least 24 kWh of batteries. If you need 100 amps for pool and barn then 48 kWh.
 
For the existing AC PV, install a Sol-ark and feed the AC PV into the Gen Input. You will need 2 Sol-ark because you exceed 19kW of solar. Or, you can put the excess on the grid input.

Do the inverters deliver peak power simultaneously? Or due to multiple panel orientations, is peak wattage reduced?
(moving some PV to SolArk also addresses this.)

Talk to Sol-ark installer about moving the PV from the Solar edge to the Sol-ark.

SolarEdge uses its own proprietary optimizers per panel.
To connect the strings to SolArk, either simply remove those if RSD is not required, or install other RSD/optimizer like Tigo.

But first, determine Voc and calculated higher maximum at record cold temperature. SolarEdge uses its optimizers to reduce max voltage, allowing longer string than other inverters can handle.
 
Upon further thought, if 1sol-ark 15k is enough power when grid down, then move 15k of DC PV to the Sol-ark, and add batteries. If you need more than 50 amps continuous when grid down, then you need to parallel 2 Sol-ark so move all the PV to the Sol-ark. Sell the solar edge inverters on ebay or here.

Regarding batteries: consider both delivery as well as capacity. For each 50 amps continuous output, that is 12kW. You should have at least 24 kWh of batteries. If you need 100 amps for pool and barn then 48 kWh.
Good advice. In theory AC coupled sounds great. In practice large amounts of AC coupled with no DC just does not work well. Don't ask how I know. I have reliable power here, but I still want some ability to have back up power. In a grid down situation I have no confidence I will be able to charge my batteries with AC coupled power. I have 15 KWH of batteries. That's enough to get through a 12 hour outage. I would like to add another 15 KWHs. It might help the AC coupled system perform better since it should double the ability to dump current somewhere. I am going to eventually hook up a contactor that will disconnect the PV until battery voltage drops to a certain point. That should reduce the issue of excess PV with no place to send it. If I can't get AC coupled actually working well, my plan is to use a generator. 1 propane tank = 15KWH of electricity for $50. 15KWH of batteries = $5000. So I can store 3 days of power for $300 vs $30,000.

As a grid tied system my Enphase inverters work great 99.9% of the time.
 
What are you looking to back up? You've got 2 main panels and about 6 sub panels, if my count is correct.
The easiest solution would be to back up one complete main or sub.

You also didn't talk about inverter size, you need to define your loads, that is an important step. You should do as suggested and view your usage and do an energy audit.

Lastly, with 400a worth of service and 26kw of panels, 35kWh of battery seems small. Seat of the pants feels like you'd be more in the 75-125kWh range.

My array is 9kW with a 36kWh pack on a single, smaller 4 bedroom home.
 
AC couple 1-3 solark 12k or 15k with batteries and power your critical loads from them. Keep big arse motors on grid.
 
Good luck. I'm still waiting to hear from someone that has successfully installed a large 100% AC coupled system that will work well off grid. AC coupled is great for Grid tied.
Good advice. In theory AC coupled sounds great. In practice large amounts of AC coupled with no DC just does not work well. Don't ask how I know.

For SolArk perhaps, recommended DC > AC coupled. I've read here that HF inverters have more trouble with AC coupling and load dump.
Any other reason it won't work?

100% AC coupled works great off-grid with SMA Sunny Island and Sunny Boy.

Maybe full lithium battery would be an issue if it can't accept a few seconds of power production. Traditionally these systems had lead-acid or other dumb chemistry, no BMS doing over-voltage disconnect. Maybe sufficient capacity and some headroom below 100% SoC would accept the current.

Other issue is over-discharge and need for black start. That would be avoided with load-shed and sufficient remaining charge to operate or sleep until sunup.

Some relatively large systems (30kW ) entirely AC coupled (GT PV and diesel AC generator). Some with DC coupling as well.


"Solar power: 30 kWp
Battery inverter power: 63 kW"


My grid-backup system is 10 kW PV, 23 kW battery inverter.
 
Some relatively large systems (30kW ) entirely AC coupled (GT PV and diesel AC generator). Some with DC coupling as well.

https://files.sma.de/downloads/SISYSGUIDE-KEN140421.pdf

Thank you for the information. It looks like SMA has a good system put together that actually works. So does Enphase, but it is very expensive and is not DIY. I know it is possible to get an AC coupled system to work. It is just that most of the available inverters seem to lack the software, and communications between the Battery and PV inverters to actually make the system work well.

Sol ark seems to be better than most as far as having a control relay and better software. Enphase seems to be working hard to make sure that you CAN'T use their newest IQ8 inverters as a component of an AC coupled system.

I don't think there is that much missing from the Schneider Inverters that is needed to make this work reliably. I am going to try three things:

1. Add some control relays and a 65 amp contactor that will turn on the incoming PV when the grid is up OR battery voltage drops below a certain amount. Schneider actually has a control output that should allow me to control the relays.

2. Increase my 5 KWH 100 amp batteries from 3 to 6. This should double their ability to accept current.

3. Add additional relays that will allow me to individually control the PV feeds. I have three of them.

So maybe I set the system up so it works as follows:

1. When the grid is down and voltage is below 53.0 volts the main PV contactor and one of the PV feeds will turn on.
2. When the grid is down and voltage is below 52.9 volts the additional two PV feeds will turn on.
3. When the grid is up the contactor and all three relays are on.

Since I have two inverters I can program each one of them to trigger at a different voltage. This should make sure that the PV is not trying to push current into the batteries when they are full. I am not certain about it, but I think that the Enphase inverters may test the impedance before fully turning on. So when there are not enough batteries or they are too full they won't turn on. I do need to spend more time testing, but I have heard people have trouble getting IQ8s to turn on when off grid. When doing some testing and turning off all but one string, I got my IQ8s to turn on once. They ran for about 2 minutes ramped up to about 2KW, shut down and wouldn't come back on. They actually did push some power into the battery. The Schneider actually sent them a signal (a one second pulse of 62 HZ AC) that shut them down. If I leave all three PV string connected, they never come on.
 
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I think that the Enphase inverters may test the impedance before fully turning on. So when there are not enough batteries or they are too full they won't turn on.
Enphase inverters have no way to test the amount of batteries. The gridforming inverter provides the impedance and other parameters which the Enphase inverters test for. Typically the parameter which is used most often in grid forming inverters to control the Enphase GT inverters is frequency Watt. If the grid forming inverter does not have enough load to support the operation of the GT inverters it will not lower the frequency to the point that the GT inverters will turn on. It works that way with any GT inverter, not just Enphase.
 
They apparently use features built into their IQ8s to respond far faster to changes in load. These features only work with their batteries and their IQ system controller.
I doubt it. It's more likely Enphase is using proprietary comms to disable anti-islanding in the micros when working in island grid mode.
 
For SolArk perhaps, recommended DC > AC coupled. I've read here that HF inverters have more trouble with AC coupling and load dump.
Any other reason it won't work?

100% AC coupled works great off-grid with SMA Sunny Island and Sunny Boy.
I bet you don't have Enphase iQ8's.
 
Thank you for the information. It looks like SMA has a good system put together that actually works. So does Enphase, but it is very expensive and is not DIY. I know it is possible to get an AC coupled system to work. It is just that most of the available inverters seem to lack the software, and communications between the Battery and PV inverters to actually make the system work well.

Sol ark seems to be better than most as far as having a control relay and better software. Enphase seems to be working hard to make sure that you CAN'T use their newest IQ8 inverters as a component of an AC coupled system.

I don't think there is that much missing from the Schneider Inverters that is needed to make this work reliably. I am going to try three things:

1. Add some control relays and a 65 amp contactor that will turn on the incoming PV when the grid is up OR battery voltage drops below a certain amount. Schneider actually has a control output that should allow me to control the relays.

2. Increase my 5 KWH 100 amp batteries from 3 to 6. This should double their ability to accept current.

3. Add additional relays that will allow me to individually control the PV feeds. I have three of them.

So maybe I set the system up so it works as follows:

1. When the grid is down and voltage is below 53.0 volts the main PV contactor and one of the PV feeds will turn on.
2. When the grid is down and voltage is below 52.9 volts the additional two PV feeds will turn on.
3. When the grid is up the contactor and all three relays are on.

Since I have two inverters I can program each one of them to trigger at a different voltage. This should make sure that the PV is not trying to push current into the batteries when they are full. I am not certain about it, but I think that the Enphase inverters may test the impedance before fully turning on. So when there are not enough batteries or they are too full they won't turn on. I do need to spend more time testing, but I have heard people have trouble getting IQ8s to turn on when off grid. When doing some testing and turning off all but one string, I got my IQ8s to turn on once. They ran for about 2 minutes ramped up to about 2KW, shut down and wouldn't come back on. They actually did push some power into the battery. The Schneider actually sent them a signal (a one second pulse of 62 HZ AC) that shut them down. If I leave all three PV string connected, they never come on.

I look forward to your test results. Did you mention that Schneider informed you that Enphase is working on a fix for iQ8 AC coupling?
 
I bet you don't have Enphase iQ8's.

Nope!
Sunny Boys, and old ones!
(Also TriPower, less old)

It is possible SI will provide a stiffer island grid, work better with iQ8. Or not.
They can't overcome the load of VFD well enough to keep Sunny Boy from being upset.

SMA invented GT PV, and they invented AC coupling. But they do stumble sometimes.

I think I've encountered some issues in the transition between on/off grid, especially with paralleled inverters on a phase. Two or three for split phase or 3 phase is fine.

I also suspect there's an issue with Rule 21 Sunny Boys on Sunny Island but haven't encountered it yet. My TriPowers have some similar function (by any other name) which has been OK the little bit I've operated it.
 
I doubt it. It's more likely Enphase is using proprietary comms to disable anti-islanding in the micros when working in island grid mode.
I thought the IQ8 marketing material specifically says it has a much faster microcontroller/lower latency/finer grain control loop controlling the inverter output vs IQ7, to handle load matching.

This is also used as an explanation for why their system needs a particular minimum ratio of IQ8 to IQ7 microinverters in some configs.

I mean, sure, take with a grain of salt, I guess.
 
I assume the proprietory communications is much faster that frequency Watt which has latency built into it because of the UL and CA Rule 21 standards
 
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